Do-it-yourself metal stove: study the drawings and step-by-step manufacturing process

A homemade metal stove is perfect for heating a greenhouse, garage, work space, and even a living room. To assemble the unit in question, you can use sheets of metal, barrels, pipes and even fire extinguishers of a suitable size. The procedure for making the stove remains the same. Differences are present only in the initial stages of corps preparation.

DIY metal stove

What is a stove for a summer residence, its advantages and disadvantages

A summer cottage stove is a brick or metal structure that uses wood, coal, fuel oil, gas and other combustible materials as fuel material. Unlike conventional stoves, country houses are usually made in more compact sizes. This source of heat and place for cooking is used not only in the premises of country houses, but also in open areas.

Creates a special atmosphere when relaxing in the country

Furnaces for summer cottages have their advantages and disadvantages:

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Dutch oven

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

Swedish oven

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven on the side you can install a heat exchanger to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

Bell furnace

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

Russian stove

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• Dishes of our national cuisine that cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven become available for preparation.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

Types of stoves, which option is better to choose for self-production

To heat the premises of a country house, use:

• buleryan;
• brick;
• metal stoves;
• on used oil;
• long burning stoves.

Brick

Brick stoves for cottages have a simple design. It is easy to find suitable material for its construction. However, this heat source will require a heavy base in the form of a concrete slab, so it is rarely found as a heating structure in a small room in a country house.

Heater-cooking oven

Buleryan

The Buleryan heating device is a source of high heat output, which uses wood chips, small firewood and peat as fuel material. Despite its high performance, this device is expensive and requires special knowledge during installation.

Small and efficient heat source

Potbelly stove

A potbelly stove is usually small in size. This heating device allows you to create heat by burning wood. The potbelly stove is very popular due to its simple installation, reasonable price, simplicity of design and the ability to make this stove yourself.

Frequently encountered stove

On used oil

This type of stove is often used by dacha owners. This option is very convenient, since many of them have vehicles, and when servicing a car, there is always fuel oil and other liquid fuel left over. In addition, this stove is safe to use, since the fuel burns completely inside the structure.

Dual heat source design

Long burning "bubafonya"

When installing a long-burning stove, the room in the country house will be heated for a long time. It is not difficult to build such a stove yourself. All you need is skills in handling a welding machine.

The design saves fuel material

Considering the cost and performance of these heating devices, a brick option and a long-burning stove are most suitable for a summer residence. The cost of materials, production time and functionality of these heat sources make them the most popular among owners of summer cottages.

When making these stove options yourself, you will need skills in handling a welding machine and experience in bricklaying.

It should be noted that a big role in good heating of a country house is played not only by the functionality of the selected stove, but also by high-quality insulation of the walls of the building.

The stove for a summer residence is often modernized, so that not only firewood and sawdust, but also waste oil are used as fuel material.

Making a sauna stove

A good option for heating a bathhouse would be a simple steel stove; the device is lined with bricks for safety. The only negative is that it is not mobile, so it is better to immediately choose dense and high-quality sheets for arrangement. Tools that will be useful:

• Welding equipment;
• Bulgarian;
• 3 mm diodes.

Sheets must be at least 4 mm wide, and reinforcement - 10 mm.

Important! Such a metal stove will ensure safety due to the fact that it will heat up quickly and will not emit carbon monoxide.

How to build a metal stove with bricks:

1. First you need to make a foundation. To do this, you can make a wooden formwork of 20 cm, an area of ​​1 * 1 m.
2. Next, install the reinforcing mesh; it must be done in such a way that it does not touch the ground or floor.
3. Next, you need to mix the cement and fill everything with mortar. The M400 is suitable for these purposes.
4. The foundation takes at least 4 weeks to dry.
5. During this time, you can assemble a metal stove according to any drawing.
6. Next, they make a brick rim on top of the structure, which is placed on the foundation.
7. Everything sets within another 2 weeks. During this time, you can equip the chimney structure, as it plays an important role in safety.

It doesn’t matter here whether the owner of the site will design and assemble the stove himself or purchase a ready-made kit. Since the preparation itself takes most of the time. If all the rules are followed, the stove will last a long time and will delight you with warmth for 20 years.

Designs, their features and principle of operation

Brick oven

The brick version for a dacha is not much different from a conventional stove, the only difference being that it can be manufactured in smaller sizes. This option is not very often found at dachas, since the process of erecting such a structure requires a lot of preparatory work and financial costs. When constructing such a furnace, at the level of masonry of the second, third and fourth rows, fireclay bricks are used. This material is not destroyed when exposed to open fire. The height of the oven is nine rows. Subsequent rows form a chimney to remove furnace gases. The chimney pipe is equipped with a stainless steel metal sleeve.

The operating principle of this furnace is the formation of pyrolysis gases under the influence of high temperatures. As a result, gasification of wood occurs. The combustible material gradually chars and disintegrates into solid hydrocarbons, tars and mixtures of gases. The pyrolysis gas released in this process itself becomes fuel, which makes it possible to obtain an additional source of heat.

Made of metal

A metal stove, or its most common name – “potbelly stove”, has the form of a box, a piece of pipe, a used gas cylinder or barrel. It contains compartments and chambers equipped with doors. This design will require metal with a thickness of at least 5–6 mm, otherwise the walls of the furnace will burn out. If a pipe is used for the body of the potbelly stove, then its diameter must be at least 30 cm, with an appropriate metal thickness. The design of such a furnace is equipped with an exhaust pipe, which is located on top closer to the rear of the body.

When installing the pipe from the rear side, it is necessary to make it slope at least 30 degrees.

At the bottom of the combustion part of the metal furnace, slits are made to allow ash to fall out. The size of the holes depends on the size of the material being burned.

On used oil

The waste oil furnace is made of metal. Its design consists of two cylindrical containers located one above the other, connected by a pipe. Like all types of stoves, this option is equipped with a chimney pipe. Used engine oil burns in the lower container. The released gases pass through the pipe into the upper tank, where they mix with air and create a second combustion source. Air enters the upper chamber through holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm.

In this furnace you can burn different types of waste:

• solar oil;
• oil;
• transmission;
• transformer;
• kerosene;
• diesel fuel;
• fuel oil

It should be noted that flammable substances such as acetone, gasoline or solvents cannot be used in such ovens. These materials, in small quantities, can only be used when lighting the stove.

Such substances should be used with particular caution when lighting firewood indoors in a country house. On such a stove, the chimney should be installed only in the upper part in a vertical position.

Long-burning country stove "Bubafonya"

This stove differs from previous options in that the wood burns for 15–17 hours, without adding fuel material. This feature is achieved thanks to the metal stove damper and a full load of firewood. This helps to create a moderate draft in the combustion part, as a result of which the wood does not burn, but smolders for the specified time. The power of the flame in the furnace is regulated by a metal vent. The fire in such a stove burns at the top of the wood, slowly spreading downward as the combustion material burns out.

To make such a stove, it is recommended to use not individual sheets of metal, but a solid barrel with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm. The optimal volume of such a barrel is 200 liters.

However, this size is not mandatory. A solid body will eliminate the appearance of holes and cracks through which heat will escape.

Slow burning of firewood is ensured by a moving element of the stove, called a load. This part of the housing supplies air to the combustion chamber. This element is made of a metal circle, to the middle of which a pipe is welded. On the reverse side of this circle, from the center to the edge, metal corners or channel fragments are welded. These parts provide air supply to the extreme areas of the combustion chamber.

The operating principle of this furnace is expressed in the following features:

1. Firewood is laid vertically. Sawdust, chips or paper are poured on top to ignite the kindling material.
2. The combustion of pyrolysis gases is facilitated by a round steel plate with welded blades that transport air to the hearth. In the middle of the plate there is a hole that stabilizes the combustion process.
3. The plate with blades is installed on the burning firewood, and the top is covered with a lid.
4. Burning wood is under constant pressure from the plate. As a result, the combustion material is gradually compressed, and the temperature inside it increases. This process causes thermal decomposition with subsequent release of flammable gases. When wood burns, the volume of fuel is reduced and the plate moves towards the bottom of the structure, thereby helping to maintain a constant temperature.
5. The gas that is released during the combustion of fuel burns above the air distribution plate in the furnace. In this case, the efficiency of the furnace increases by 25–35%.

Principle of operation

A simple potbelly stove made from a can

The simplest potbelly stove is made with your own hands from an ordinary can. There is no need to talk about the durability of such a structure, but it is quickly built, easy to install and provides enough heat.

All the work consists of installing the legs, arranging the outlet pipe and some cosmetic operations. To work you need:

• Can
• Flue pipe
• Wire for grate
• Welding machine
• Tools

Let's get started

1. We install the can horizontally and mark where the blower will be, shaped like a rectangle or sickle. Place it under the lid
2. A hole is cut in the wall or bottom of the can, equal to the diameter of the chimney pipe
3. To make a grate, you need to stock up on steel wire. It is bent, carried inside through the lid and carefully unbent so that the zigzag is positioned in the desired position, while it remains convenient to lay wood chips, firewood, etc.
4. The can must be secured to legs, which are cut from tubes or corners and welded
5. The chimney is welded

A reflector can be attached to the outside of the tank, thanks to which less generated heat will evaporate. Having welded the handles on the sides, the structure can be moved to any other place.

Pros and cons of homemade potbelly stoves

Among the many advantages of such a nondescript but useful installation are:

• Full autonomy and energy independence
• Working with any solid fuel, including plant residues, allows you to save a lot of money
• The versatility of the design, which can not only be installed in various rooms, but also used for cooking
• A simple design that you can build yourself from materials available in the garage
• There is no need to construct a monolithic foundation and install a capital chimney pipe

But despite the significant and numerous advantages, a number of disadvantages of potbelly stoves can be identified:

• The high thermal conductivity of the metal leads to rapid fuel burnout and cooling of the furnace
• If the wall thickness is insufficient, they will soon begin to burn out and the oven will fail.
• You need to watch the combustion process and add firewood in time, control the draft
• Resinous and damp logs cause difficult to remove soot in the chimney pipe

Calculation of basic parameters

Bricks

To calculate the required amount of material for a country stove, you can use the diagram below, which shows the bricks in each row of masonry. The image shows that the width and length of the future building are the same, so the design of the stove will have a square shape.

The small size of the structure is convenient for construction in the countryside

According to established standards, a single red brick has dimensions of 250x120x65 mm.

Standard Material Size

Knowing these parameters, it is not difficult to calculate the length and width of the building. Let's substitute the values: 250+250+120=620 mm - the size of one of the sides of the furnace.

To build a furnace, you will need 300 bricks, excluding damaged material.

Foundation

Construction of a brick kiln for a summer cottage requires the installation of a foundation. For this, a slab base is used. The length and width of the foundation must be made 150–200 mm wider than the furnace parameters, and its thickness must be at least 150 mm. Let's substitute the values: 620+200=820 mm - this is the length of one of the four sides of the base.

Having these parameters, it is easy to calculate the area of ​​the furnace base. To do this, you need to apply the formula for finding the area of ​​a figure, which looks like this: S=a², where “a” is the size of the sides of the figure being studied. Let's substitute the values: 820·820=672400 mm² or 0.6724 m².

To find out how much concrete mixture is required to fill the base, you need to use the geometric formula for determining the volume of a cube, which looks like this: V=h, where “h” is the length, width and height of the foundation. Let's substitute the values: 0.82·0.82·0.15=0.10086 m³.

Armature

The concrete base of the furnace must be reinforced with metal rods 10–12 mm thick. To do this, the reinforcement is fastened in the form of a lattice, with cells measuring 10x10 cm. To calculate how many linear meters of reinforcement are required to make the reinforcing mesh, it is necessary to determine how many rods are needed for the width and length of the structure. Since each rod is located at a distance of 10 cm from each other, you need to divide the length of the base by the width of the cell: 0.82:0.1 = 8.2 pieces.

It is also necessary to take into account that you will need a mixture for laying bricks.

The thickness of the adhesive layer between bricks should be at least 15–18 mm.

The foundation has a square shape, so the perpendicular side of the lattice will have a similar number of rods. Let's add these values: 8.2 + 8.2 = 16.4 pieces of reinforcing rods. Now let’s set the total length of the metal rods: 16.4·0.82=13.448 linear meters of reinforcement, rounded to 13.5 m.

Recommendations for installing the stove

Installation of the stove
Metal stoves are installed in accordance with the provisions and rules of current regulatory documents.

If the walls of the building are made of wood, the distance between them and the stove should be at least 50-100 cm. If you line the wall with refractory bricks, plaster it, or protect it with a thick metal sheet, the specified distance can be reduced to 20 cm. 30 cm.

The firebox and chimney of the stove should be at a minimum distance.

Installed metal stove

Lightweight stoves can be installed without a foundation, on a dense metal sheet. Relatively heavy units require an individual base made of concrete or brick. The recommended foundation height is up to 200 mm.

Installation of a sauna stove

Now you have the information necessary to make your own metal stove. Follow the provisions of the presented manual, and the finished heating unit will effectively cope with the tasks assigned to it for many years.

Furnace installation option

Fuel loading

Good luck!

Required materials and tools

To build a brick stove for a summer residence, you will need the following materials:

1. Ceramic brick.
2. Fireclay brick.
3. Kiln mixture for masonry.
4. Metal parts of the oven: doors, grate, valves, cooking platform with rings.
5. Cement grade M250.
6. Sand.
7. Ruberoid.

To build a brick stove for a summer residence, the following tools are needed:

1. Small pickaxe.
2. Trowel for mortar.
3. Building level.
4. Plumb.
5. Rule.
6. Large square.
7. Cord for masonry.
8. Grouting tool.
9. Container for solution.

To make a bubafonya country stove you will need the following materials:

1. Thick steel pipes;
2. An empty gas cylinder or solid metal drum. If these materials are not at hand, the furnace body can be made from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm.
3. Cold rolled steel sheet, at least 8–10 mm thick. A piston will be made from it to transport air and residual flammable gases.
4. Hinges for doors at the bottom and top of the structure.
5. Asbestos cord used as a seal for the loading and operational cavity.
6. Trimmed fragments of metal corners, channels or profile pipes.
7. Gear with a diameter of 15 cm with a mounting hole of at least 5 mm.

When creating a long-burning furnace, you cannot do without the following tools:

1. Autogen.
2. Welding machine.
3. Grinder with grinding and cutting disc.
4. Hammer.
5. Bit.
6. Medium sledgehammer.
7. Yardstick.
8. Building level.
9. Graphite pencil.

What types of stoves are there?

To make the case, one of two metals is used:

1. Cast iron.
2. Steel.

Wood-burning cast iron stoves for a summer residence will have an impressive mass. Its heating takes a little longer than steel.

But inertia pays off when decay occurs. The steel walls are hot while the combustion process is going on, and then they cool down just as quickly. Cast iron retains heat for some time after extinguishing.

In addition, cast iron has a longer service life; such a stove will not burn out for a long time. But at the same time, it can be damaged, for example, by dropping it or hitting it with a heavy object - there is a possibility of cracks appearing and the device will become unusable.

Other differences in models. Potbelly stoves can be:

1. With legs.
2. Without legs, on a flat base.

The former look more elegant and are safer to use.

• rectangular;
• barrel-shaped.

Barrel-shaped potbelly stove

The latter are most often made with your own hands, for example, from a piece of pipe.

Preparatory work and selection of installation location

Construction processes for the construction of a brick kiln indoors or on the territory of a summer cottage begin long before the actual laying. At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to perform a number of important actions that will have a positive impact on the functionality and durability of the heat source in the country. These important points include:

1. Preparing clay for masonry . You can purchase a ready-made mixture, but if you can find a suitable type of clay in your region, then it must be prepared accordingly:

• 24 hours before the start of laying, it must be soaked in the form;
• a day later, using a drill with a “mixer” attachment, mix the clay with the addition of sand. It is necessary to achieve the consistency of liquid sour cream;
• sift dry sand through a sieve;
• strain the liquid clay through a sieve into a container;
• adding sand to the container with clay, mix the mixture with a mixer. When thickening occurs in the container, add water. You need to achieve such a consistency that the solution slowly spreads on the trowel.

1. Preparing bricks. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully inspect and sort the material. Bricks without cracks or chips will be used for fireboxes. Damaged material is also sorted. These fragments and debris are useful for making halves, three-quarters and quarters.
2. Checking and preparing floors . The flooring should be dismantled down to the concrete slab or to the ground. In the second case, it is necessary to compact the soil and lay a thick layer of paper, roofing felt or polyethylene on top. These layers will create waterproofing of the structure.
3. Organization of work during the construction process.

• when masonry is being carried out, the stove must remain accessible to each side of the building. For convenience, all building material must be placed no closer than 60 cm to the walls of the furnace.
• the entire structure must first be built without the use of cement and clay, that is, dry brickwork must be made. This will help you accurately select the required quantity and quality of building material.

Popular makes and models

In order to choose a stove that suits the characteristics of the room and the needs of the owner, it is necessary to take into account its operating qualities. However, you need to know the most famous manufacturers of such products. This will help to immediately cut off products from various nameless companies, the quality and durability of which are very questionable.

Let's consider several models of metal stoves from popular and reliable manufacturers.

Cast iron stoves:

Hephaestus PB-04 MS

Compact oven of domestic production. Design with an open heater, remote firebox, power 12 kW (for rooms up to 15 m3).

• Advantages : high efficiency, attractive design, presence of a secondary fuel combustion system.

• Disadvantages - long heating time and heavy weight;

VESUVIUS Legend Standard 16

The oven is equipped with a protective grille that provides protection against burns. The maximum volume of the steam room is 18 m3, weight is 92 kg.

• Advantages : thoughtful design, safety for users, reliability.

• Disadvantages - no water tank, rather large size;

NARVI Oy Kota Inari

Finnish cast iron stove, designed to heat a room up to 16 m3.

• Advantages : compactness, glass door, fuel afterburning system.

• Disadvantages - the size of the heater is small.

Steel furnaces:

Anapa

Products of the Russian company Izistim, made of heat-resistant stainless steel (thickness 5 mm). The body is bent-welded, which eliminates the possibility of temperature deformations. The manufacturer can custom line the stove with natural stone - soapstone or coil. Closed heater, weight of stones - 55 kg.

• Advantages - a comfortable long firebox (logs up to 45 cm can be used), a door with glass, high power (30 kW).

• Disadvantages - quite high fuel consumption.

Angara 2012

Products of the domestic company Termofor. The stove is made of heat-resistant low-alloy steel (chrome content - 16%). Equipped with a built-in heat exchanger. Room volume - up to 18 m3. It has two heaters - internal (33 kg) and external (30 kg).

• Advantages : high efficiency, power, practicality, affordable cost.

• Disadvantages : door without glass.

Vesuvius Russian steam

This is a whole model line of steel furnaces with different capacities and designed to heat rooms from 9 to 32 m3. The open heater is housed in a basket made of steel strips, while models with a closed heater are housed in a barrel-shaped casing.

• Advantages : practicality, power, durability.

• Disadvantages - there is no water tank.

Gas ovens:

Uralochka 24

Floor-standing heater designed for heating rooms up to 24 m3. The model is universal; you can use wood instead of gas. It is equipped with a burner, control unit, and piezo ignition system. You can use additional options - a water tank, a steam generator, a convector screen.

• Advantages : universal fuel type, reliability, high power.

• Disadvantages - large dimensions.

Rus 18 LKGD

Another gas-wood stove from domestic manufacturers. The stove is safe and very economical - gas consumption in maximum mode is only 1.5 m3/hour.

• Advantages : it is equipped with a water heating function, maintains a balance of temperature and humidity, and is highly reliable.

• Disadvantages - the oven is large and heavy.

TMF Urengoy Inox TSB

Gas stove designed for wall installation in a bathhouse with a volume of up to 12 m3.

• Advantages : relatively low price, low gas consumption, compact size.

• Disadvantages - it is not equipped with gas fittings.

Only the most popular models of metal stoves are considered. There are many more of them on sale; users can choose the optimal sample for themselves.

How to upgrade and improve the operation of the furnace

Improvement and modernization of stoves for summer cottages can be carried out as follows:

1. The design of a long-burning stove has one drawback. To remove ash, it is necessary to turn the heavy structure over. To get rid of this inconvenience, you can make an ash pan and grates at the bottom of the cylinder. However, such a modification risks introducing air into the combustion chamber . As a result, the wood will burn faster. Therefore, doors must be sealed, equipped with sides and seals.
2. The design of a long-burning stove can be improved by the number and shape of ribs on the piston (weight). To do this, they do not use pieces of channel bars or corners, but rather curved steel strips. Thanks to the shape of the plates, the air swirls. For more efficient operation of the piston, 6 to 8 plates are welded to it. This ensures uniform distribution of air in the combustion chamber.

   
   Heat will be distributed evenly

3. A brick oven will take up less space if you consider building a corner option. To construct this option, less material will be required, which means the costs will be significantly lower.

   
   Less material required

4. An improvement to this type of stove is the equipment with a switch for winter and summer mode. This is convenient in spring or autumn, when there is increased dampness in the atmosphere and it is hot to heat the stove at full power. Such a switch is visible in the masonry diagram of the 6th row of a brick kiln.

An additional damper will improve the operation of the oven

Stove installation

The installation rules are based on protecting surrounding objects and walls from the hot walls of the potbelly stove:

• Base. It must be non-flammable. Of course, a concrete slab is ideal, but few people can afford such a high-quality foundation at their dacha. A section of ceramic tiles and a brick base are suitable. Models with legs are not so demanding on the base, since the legs, although they heat up, are to a lesser extent. Here you can use a sheet of tin.
• Distance to walls. If the walls are wooden or lined with flammable materials, the distance to them should be at least 70 cm, if plastic, even more. The same principle applies to furniture.
• Chimney. Pipe diameter from 85 to 150 mm. If possible, you should avoid joining pipes, especially in a residential area, but if you have to join, the joint must be completely airtight. The joints should not coincide with the place where the pipe passes through the floors and roof. In these areas, a fireproof barrier is made of brick, ceramics or concrete, which will protect the floor materials from fire. Often the stove pipe is placed out the window, and the stove itself is placed in the middle of the room. In this case, the section of pipe extending from the furnace (horizontal or inclined) will act as an afterburning chamber and transfer heat to the room.
• Ventilation. The potbelly stove burns with an open principle. This means that it will take the necessary oxygen from the room in which it is located. Therefore, according to the standards, it needs to provide a sufficient amount of fresh air: for 1 kW - 10 m3 per hour. Few country houses can boast of good supply and exhaust ventilation, so the problem is usually solved by ventilation. Otherwise, people will experience unpleasant symptoms of oxygen starvation.

Stove after installation

To make the potbelly stove mobile, that is, to be able to move it from place to place, part of the chimney can be made from fireproof corrugation. You just have to pay more attention to cleaning, because the corrugated area will become a place where soot accumulates.

Features of operation

The operation of a brick kiln in a country house has its own characteristics:

• The fresh masonry of the stove must dry. This will take at least two weeks;
• the first firebox should be using paper, wood chips and no more than 15–20% of the total amount of fuel material;
• To determine whether the oven is completely dry, you need to pay attention to the internal damper. The absence of condensation will indicate readiness for normal operation;
• flammable materials cannot be used as fuel material;
• before kindling, it is necessary to open the vent, and after it, ventilate the room;
• you cannot light the stove if there is no draft;
• If cracks appear on the walls of the furnace, they must be repaired with mortar.

A metal stove has its own nuances during operation:

• the metal body of the stove should be equipped with legs so that there is minimal contact with the floor;
• Wall surfaces must be insulated from heat and sparks. For this, metal sheets, thick foil and other non-flammable materials are used;
• During the combustion of the combustion material, a coating of soot forms on the walls of the furnace, which reduces heat transfer. In this regard, the internal and external surfaces of the structure must be cleaned. This is easy to do with the help of special scrapers, brushes and ruffs;
• during operation, the metal becomes very hot, which, if you are careless, can get burned;
• firewood and other combustion material must be stored at a distance of at least 40–50 cm from the ash pan and the door to the combustion chamber;
• Open containers with water should not be left above or near a hot stove. Moisture that gets on a hot stove will instantly turn into hot steam, which can cause burns.

Video: stove for a country house or for a garage

Design

The design features of metal stoves are directly related to the type of fuel. However, there are always common elements:

• frame;
• firebox (or burner, fuel combustion chamber);

• chimney;
• heater;
• container for water.

There are stoves that do not require some structural elements. For example, electric stoves do not require chimneys and do not have a firebox (combustion chamber). Gas stoves are equipped with burners, but they do not have a firebox as such.

The most difficult design is for wood-burning stoves, which in addition to the firebox have an ash pit (a small compartment under the firebox where ash and soot accumulate). In addition, wood-burning stoves require a high-quality chimney and a passage through the ceiling (these are elements of the smoke removal system, which are purchased separately).

Chimneys are also used on gas and liquid fuel stoves, but the combustion products of these fuels are not as abundant and do not contain as much tar and water vapor.

At the same time, due to traditional preferences, wood-burning stoves are most often found in bathhouses. Users are attracted by the romantic component of the process - the crackling of firewood, a specific smell and other attributes.

All alternative designs, although more effective and convenient to use, have not become so widespread.

Do-it-yourself Russian stove: row masonry

To complete the construction of any brick stove, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions and thoroughly understand the diagrams, or even better, to undergo an internship with an experienced stove maker.

DIY Russian stove

A Russian stove can be built with your own hands under the guidance of a qualified craftsman who will not allow you to make mistakes when laying and reading the order. You need to know that even a single incorrectly placed brick can ruin all the work done. There are known cases when, due to such an oversight, it was necessary to redo the masonry, since either a very strong unnecessary draft was created, leading to excessive consumption of firewood, or it was completely absent.

If, despite all the difficulties and warnings, you still decide to try on the role of a stove maker without making “fatal” mistakes, you must strictly follow the work rules and take the most serious approach to the choice of quality material.

To avoid claims from the fire inspectorate, you need to know that all permanently installed heating devices must fully comply with the established parameters (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Basic structure of a Russian stove

A Russian stove may have different models, but it is always a heating and cooking stove, and in addition to this, it must have an oven and at least a small stove bench.

In order to start working on the construction of such a structure, you must become familiar with the structure of the furnace in order to know the name of each of its sections.

General diagram of a traditional Russian stove

The basic diagram of a traditional Russian stove assumes the presence of the following departments:

1 – The oven is set up for drying firewood in reserve. This section is not available in all oven models, as it is not functional enough.

2 – A cold stove is also not always suitable, but it is typical for a Russian stove. This section is used to store dishes.

3 – The pole is a niche in front of the crucible. This is where the hob is often installed if the oven has a slightly different structure. If there is no stove, food cooked in the crucible is left in the hearth so that it remains hot longer.

4 – The under is the bottom of the furnace or cooking chamber. This oven element is arranged with a slight slope towards the entrance to the chamber to facilitate the movement of dishes installed in it. In addition, it is recommended to sand the surface of this element well.

5 – A cooking chamber or crucible; in traditional ovens, firewood is placed in it and heat-resistant dishes are placed in which food is cooked. The vault of the chamber, like the one underneath, is made with a slight slope towards the entrance. This configuration contributes to the accumulation of hot air under the ceiling, and it warms up the stove bench and the side walls of the stove well.

6 – The overpipe is a niche above the pole; the chimney pipe begins above it.

7 – The choke or samovar was built earlier and was intended for the pipe from the samovar, which was installed in this hole. The samovar goes into the chimney. Today, this section in the furnace is most often not installed, since there is no need for it.

8 – Thermal channel above the pole.

9 – A view is a window with a door that completely blocks the chimney. Through this hole one gets to the damper, which regulates the draft by moving horizontally. The damper is a metal plate with well-finished edges. Today, this element is often replaced with a special valve.

10 – Damper location.

11 – The bench is located above the furnace, behind the chimney. During combustion, this section of the stove always warms up well. Previously, the couch was used in the winter as a bed, so it was made quite large, so that there was enough space for several people.

In the modernized version of the Russian stove, the order of which will be presented below, some elements of the traditional structure are replaced. At the same time, the new model has become more functional, as it now has a hob and a water heating tank.

The modern version also differs from the traditional one in that it provides for heating the combustion chamber - thanks to this, the stove reaches the desired temperature much faster, and more heat flows into the room from it.

The article will discuss a more modern, improved Russian stove

The presence of different departments in the structure allows you to heat only the hob for cooking in the summer, without heating the entire building, which helps maintain the desired microclimate in the house and save fuel. In winter, when all channels are heated, the stove becomes multifunctional - it can simultaneously be an oven, a stove, heat water and the room, and also be a warm bed.

Such changes became possible when an additional “summer” damper for the cooking chamber was installed into the design.

The modern version of the stove is capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature over an area of ​​35 ÷ 40 m².

When starting to work on a Russian stove, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures, which begin with planning the installation site.

Choosing a location for a Russian stove

A very important point is the correct choice of the place where the structure will be built. If the stove is installed in a wooden building, then the distance between its walls and the walls of the house must be carefully thought out, which must be at least 200 mm. In addition, wooden walls must be protected by attaching non-combustible material to them - most often asbestos boards are used for this. This gap will also ensure free inspection of the furnace walls, which must be carried out before the start of each heating season.

If a place is chosen for construction between two rooms, then the opening in the wooden wall must be lined with brickwork, also at least 200 mm thick. Additionally, between the masonry and the wood, you can install a gasket from the same asbestos sheet.

Masonry tools

Whatever stove model is chosen, the same tools will be needed to lay it, which must be prepared in advance.

Basic tools for furnace work

1 – A trowel or trowel is necessary for taking masonry mortar from the container and applying it to the bricks, as well as for cleaning the masonry from excess mixture that has protruded between the seams.

2 – A hammer-pick will be needed for trimming and splitting bricks, since during the work you will have to adjust individual masonry elements or give them a certain shape.

3 – Joining will be necessary if the stove will not be finished with decorative tiles, and the masonry must have a perfectly neat appearance. This tool is used to create horizontal and vertical seams.

4 – The mooring cord is used to control the evenness of the rows, but more often in our time, when laying the walls of furnaces, craftsmen are limited to the building level and plumb line.

5 – Ordering is a very useful device that will help maintain the verticality of the masonry, as well as maintain the same thickness of horizontal seams.

6 – A plumb line also measures the verticality of the wall, and its convenience lies in the fact that it can be easily and quickly installed in the right place.

7 – A building level is indispensable when working on any masonry, so it should always be at hand, as it checks the evenness of each laid row, when it is still possible to quickly make any changes.

8 – The rule is most often used only once, when leveling the foundation surface.

9 – Spatula and container for mixing the solution.

10 – It’s also a good idea to have a measuring stick that will be used to measure the width of the seams.

Necessary materials

For each furnace model, its own amount of materials is purchased, depending on its size. In addition to laying the walls and all its internal sections (in accordance with the order), building materials will also be required for the construction of the foundation, which must be made very reliably, since the Russian stove is a fairly massive structure.

You shouldn’t save money by buying cheap, low-quality building materials if you want the building to be both respectable in appearance and work effectively for its intended purpose.

Below is a table of the necessary materials for the construction of a Russian stove measuring 1600 mm wide, 2380 mm long and 1900 ÷ 2000 mm high, which is often called the “Teplushka”.

Cast iron and steel shaped parts for the stove can be purchased in specialized stores.
In addition to materials for laying the stove, it is necessary to purchase everything necessary for constructing the foundation - crushed stone, boards for formwork, sand, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm and cement, the amount of these materials will depend on depth and width of the base.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Foundation for a Russian stove

A Russian stove is a very massive structure, so you cannot do without a reliable foundation for it
. Since a brick Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, the foundation for it must be strong and reliable. Therefore, a good foundation is required, for which you will have to dig an appropriate pit.

• The size of the pit should exceed the perimeter of the stove base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction. The depth of the pit is calculated depending on the density and stability of the soil, but its average value varies between 500 and 700 mm.
• The bottom of the finished pit is covered with sand, which is watered and thoroughly compacted until the thickness of this waterproofing layer reaches 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Crushed stone or broken brick is poured onto the sand, which is also compacted. This layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and then it needs to be leveled with a small layer of sand, which is also spilled with water and leveled.
• Next, two layers of roofing material are laid on this “pie”. Then, formwork made from boards is installed on the roofing felt, and so that the concrete solution monolithically fills the box and does not flow into the gaps between the boards, the walls of the formwork are covered with dense polyethylene film.
• The solution is made from cement (one part), sand (three parts), crushed stone (five parts) and water, with the help of which the mixture is brought to the required semi-liquid consistency.
• A rough concrete solution made from gravel and cement is poured into the prepared formwork. The thickness of the initially poured layer should be 200 ÷ 220 mm. To prevent air bubbles from forming in the poured concrete, it is pierced several times with a bayonet shovel, while simultaneously compacting the solution.
• When the solution begins to set, reinforcement bars are installed vertically into it, 50 ÷ 70 mm long above the poured surface.
• Next, the next layer of mortar with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is poured. After it has set, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the surface, and the formwork is filled to the top with mortar, and then the filled surface is leveled according to the rule, but to the established horizon (usually this is the upper edge of the formwork).
• After the concrete has completely hardened and gained the necessary strength, the surface is covered with another layer of roofing felt.

Mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for laying the stove must be elastic and thin, and when dry, it must not crack and seal the seams well. Preparing the right solution is not easy, so every stove master has his own secrets in selecting materials and mixing the mixture.

Today, in specialized stores you can purchase ready-made heat-resistant mixtures intended for laying the walls of furnaces. However, according to experienced stove makers, a real traditional clay mortar with the addition of sand is much preferable to ready-made cement-based mixtures. This is true for various reasons, one of which is the environmental friendliness of the solution.

Real craftsmen will never exchange traditional clay mortar for ready-made heat-resistant cement mixtures

The main difficulty in making clay mortar yourself is selecting clay, since this material can be excessively oily or, conversely, lean. For the mortar that will be used to build the stove, you need to choose fatty clay - it is this clay that will make the mixture elastic, which is very important for obtaining high-quality, even and durable seams.

Finding the right proportions for a high-quality solution is quite difficult, and this process will take some time.

• To do this, the purchased clay must, first of all, be thoroughly cleaned of various debris and foreign inclusions, and then soaked in water for a day.
• Next, small portions of it are mixed in different proportions with sand. From this mass, cakes one centimeter thick are made, after which they are left to dry for two to three days, after recording how many parts of clay and sand are in each of the test mixtures.
• After the specified time, you need to check which of the experimental cakes has fewer cracks - this means that the entire solution needs to be mixed in exactly these proportions.

Before mixing the entire mass, it is recommended to rub the soaked clay through a mesh with cells measuring 5 mm. This process will make the mass as homogeneous as possible and eliminate problems during laying.

To lay out the firebox, fireclay powder is often added to the prepared clay solution instead of sand in a ratio of one to three to four, that is, one part of the powder to 3-4 parts of the clay solution.

Prices for fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Masonry of a Russian stove

In order for the stove to be safe for the residents of the house, the masonry must be absolutely airtight, so you cannot use low-quality bricks that have cracks. The thickness of the seams between rows should vary between 5 ÷ 8 mm. It is not recommended to coat the inside of the furnace walls with clay in order to achieve the desired tightness, since the solution will promote the formation of soot deposits and reduce thermal conductivity.

This is what the edges of a brick are called.

The masonry is made in different sections of the kiln in one brick (brick length), half a brick (brick width) and a quarter brick (brick thickness).

Bandaging the corners of the stove is done in different ways, depending on the thickness of the masonry, but the basic principle is to intertwine the spoon and the butt of the brick.

Bandaging corners when laying a stove

Before laying, it is recommended to soak the ceramic brick, since in this case it will not absorb water from the mortar, and therefore the brick and mortar will dry evenly, showing high mutual adhesion and giving good tightness of the walls.

Excess mortar protruding from the seams must be removed immediately, both from the outside and from the inside of the masonry - this will ensure the neatness and maximum functionality of the structure.

External walls can be laid out in one or half a brick, but internal walls are usually only half a brick. If the outer walls are thick, then the stove will take longer to warm up, and a large amount of fuel will be required to heat it, so half a brick is the best option for laying both the internal and external walls of a heating structure.

Find out two different ways to make ceramic tile cladding with your own hands from our new article.

Ordinary masonry of the stove

The order can be called the basic instructions for laying a stove, which shows in detail how each brick should lie in a given row, and which of the additional elements are used at a particular stage. By following these instructions exactly, you can slowly “raise” the stove structure yourself. The only thing that is recommended to learn is how to correctly lay and align rows of bricks. Such training is best done first on dry bricks, and then with mortar.

Experienced stove makers advise laying out each of the rows dry - this will allow you to adjust the sizes of all the bricks to those required in this particular row, and not make mistakes in the intricacies of the internal masonry.

• The first row sets the right direction, ensures the evenness and neatness of the entire building, therefore, before starting its laying, even dry, it is recommended to outline the exact location of the outer walls of the furnace. This can be done using a long ruler, a corner and chalk.

The first row is solid.
It must be ideal, as it will determine the evenness of the entire structure. The bricks of the outer wall are first laid on the marked surface, and then the internal space between them is filled, following the pattern indicated in the order.

On the second row, the layout of the internal compartments begins

• From the second row, the walls of the furnace begin to be laid out, the internal channels for cleaning, as well as the ash chamber, are formed.

Third row - installation of cast iron doors

• On the third row, two doors are installed - the blower and cleaning chambers. The doors are secured using steel wire, which is screwed to the lugs located on the cast iron doors, and its ends are placed in the seams between the bricks. Before the doors are completely embedded in the wall, they are temporarily supported on both sides with bricks.

4th row - the arch of the bottom space is closed

• On the fourth row, the masonry covers the top entrances to all internal channels on the walls of the furnace, forming holes, and completely forms the ceiling of the hearth channel inside the building.

Fifth row - a large grate and a small firebox door are installed

• On the fifth row, a grate for a large firebox is laid, and the internal masonry of the firebox is installed without mortar. Very often, fireclay bricks, cut in half thickness, are used for this purpose. On the same row, a small firebox door is installed above the hearth channel.

Water heating tank being installed

• The masonry of the sixth row includes the installation of a water heating tank. The inner layer of the firebox continues to be laid with fireclay bricks.

Seventh row: tie the side wall with a strip, install the grate in the small firebox, and the doors in the large firebox

• On the seventh row, a grate is installed in the small firebox and a door on the large firebox. The right wall is tightened with a steel strip, which is placed in the seam and secured to the walls with specially arranged hooks at the ends. The back wall of a large firebox is laid out with bricks without mortar. On the outer wall and on the inner masonry, gaps are arranged between the bricks for better heat transfer.

Laying the eighth and ninth rows

• On the eighth and ninth rows, the small firebox door is installed and secured, and the removal of the internal furnace channels continues.

The tenth row is laying the bottom of the crucible. The water heating tank is completely closed

• On the tenth row, the bottom of the cooking chamber (furnace) is laid out and the arches of two fireboxes are combined - small and large. The duct openings in the rear of the building, which are designed to move heated air, are left open and discharged into the cooking chamber. Also on this row the water heating tank is closed.

11th row - everything is ready to install the hob

• On the eleventh row, on the edge of the masonry, above the two fireboxes, a prepared metal corner of 50x50 mm is fixed - it will become a good basis for installing a hob in that place. The remaining open space of the large firebox behind the stove is covered with a grate that is not secured.

12th row: the beginning of the formation of the chimney and the walls of the crucible

• On the twelfth row, the front wall of the cooking chamber and the side walls of the hob begin to be decorated. A valve is installed horizontally on the left side of the stove, which will serve as a damper for the cooking chamber. To the left of the valve, the formation of the bottom of the chimney begins. The damper will block the hole between the furnace and the chimney.

13th row - continuation of the masonry upwards

• On the thirteenth row, work follows the same configuration of the pattern as given in row 12.

14th row: forming the lumen of the smoke exhaust channel

• On the fourteenth row, an entrance to the chimney pipe is formed, which will open when the vertical valve installed for the cooking chamber is moved. In addition, the walls of the furnace are removed, and a hole is made for the damper

15th row: the roof of the cooking chamber begins to overlap

• On the fifteenth row, the masonry begins to narrow, blocking the cooking chamber. At the same time, the chimney pipe is removed.

Mandatory reinforcement of walls with metal strips on the 16th row

• The fastening of the side walls with metal strips with stoppers located on the outer sides of the walls occurs on the sixteenth row, after the masonry has been laid, repeating the 15th row.

17th row: after laying - several operations with metal structures

• On the seventeenth row, several significant actions are performed:

— a screed with a metal strip is installed on the back wall of the furnace;

- the narrowing of the arch of the cooking chamber continues and a place is arranged to begin laying the arch;

- further laying of the chimney takes place;

- above the niche where the hob is installed, a metal corner and strip are laid - they will become the basis for laying bricks, which will begin to create a ceiling above the stove.

Row 18 - outer walls and plus laying out the domed arch of the furnace

• On the eighteenth row, a template is installed on the back of the furnace, above the furnace (or a structure of metal strips in the shape of an arch is welded). The dome-shaped arch of the cooking chamber is laid out according to the template. In this case, the bricks are installed on the end part - spoons.

A row of bricks is laid on the installed metal corner and strip, placing them on the wide part of the brick - the bed.

If a template made of plywood and a block is chosen for the arch, it must be made collapsible so that it can be easily removed after the mortar that holds the bricks that form the arch has hardened. Two semicircular parts are cut out of plywood, which are secured with removable pins to two rectangular frames or bars and placed on the underlying bricks.

The design roughly looks like this.

Possible template for laying the furnace dome

On top of the semicircles are covered with a flooring of narrow boards, which are assembled together using ropes, i.e. the flooring will be flexible. After the mortar hardens in the masonry, the supporting bricks are removed, the structure is lowered to the bottom of the cooking chamber, then the flexible flooring is removed, the pins are pulled out, and then all the elements are removed from the crucible.

Strengthening the inner wall with a strip on the 19th row

• On the nineteenth row, the wall above the entrance to the cooking chamber is reinforced with a metal strip. Walls are erected around the roof of the furnace, which form a space for backfilling.

• 
  On the 20th row, the space above the crucible is filled with clean sand

• On the 20th row, after erecting the walls one row above the vault, the space above the cooking chamber is filled with sand, which is carefully compacted. This layer increases the heat capacity of the furnace, which ensures high-quality baking of bread.

21st row: laying the base of the future bed

• Further, on the 21st row, the surface covered with sand, together with the walls, is covered with masonry, and in the front part there is a narrowing of the overtube.

22nd row - installation of a metal panel with a round hole

• On the 22nd row, the overpipe is narrowed and a metal element with a round hole is installed, which will help redirect the smoke, somehow trapping heat.

23rd row - installation of the cleaning window door for the chimney

• On the 23rd row, the overpipe continues to be removed, and a door is installed to make it possible to clean the chimney.

24th row: installation of the control valve

• On the 24th row, a valve is installed on the over-pipe, which will regulate the draft in the furnaces and crucible.

Laying the 25th and 26th rows

• When laying the 25th and 26th rows, the space above the valve is even more covered with masonry.

The overpipe is combined with the chimney. Above is the pipe laying

• On the 27th - 29th rows, the overpipe is combined with the chimney.
• Next comes the laying of the chimney pipe and rises to the level where the groove begins to form. It is recommended that when the chimney passes through the attic floor, the masonry should be done with cement mortar.

Passing a brick pipe through the ceiling - cutting (fluffing)

• After this, having passed the pipe through the attic, it is taken out to the roof, laying out the otter and making reliable waterproofing around it, which will close the gaps between the chimney and the roofing material.

Video: Ordinal masonry of two versions of the Russian stove

Drying the lined stove

After completing the masonry process, the stove cannot be heated at full capacity immediately, since in this case it will dry unevenly and unsightly stains will appear on the surface of the walls. In addition, the mortar at the seams may crack, and the walls will depressurize.

To prevent this from happening, the oven must undergo a natural drying process for 10 ÷ 12 days. In this case, all latches and doors must be opened. In order to create favorable conditions for drying the furnace structure, in this case, an ordinary electric light bulb of 200 ÷ 250 W can be placed in the cooking chamber for the entire drying time.

After completing the first stage of drying, you can move on to forced measures - start heating the stove with a small amount of firewood, with the smoke valves open, but with the fireboxes closed.

The stove is heated for 7 ÷ 10 days according to a special system: in the first two days only 3 ÷ 4.5 kg of firewood is used for heating, every day adding 1 ÷ 1.5 kg of fuel to the initial amount, and so on throughout the entire forced period. drying.

You can check the readiness of the furnace for full operation as follows. If, after starting the next fire, no drops of condensate appear on the metal elements within 1.5 ÷ 2 hours, then you can safely carry out a full-fledged control fire using a lot of firewood.

If, after a long drying period and carrying out a control fire, minor cracks still appear in the seams between the rows of masonry, do not rush to repair them. They need to be monitored during the heating season. During this time, they will either stop in one position or expand a little more. Only after the end of the heating season can repairs be carried out, repairing all the defects that have appeared.

Safety precautions when starting to use the stove

Having a Russian stove in your home is simply wonderful, as it has always been considered a source of warmth and special comfort. However, you need to remember about safety measures, since if they are not followed, the oven can become a source of increased danger.

Before the start of each heating season, it is necessary to carry out a thorough inspection of all masonry joints - they must be airtight and not have deep cracks. Seal the cracks that appear with a solution of clay with the addition of sand.

If, after starting the fire, smoke appears in the room, it means that there is no normal draft, and such a faulty stove should not be heated under any circumstances. You need to immediately check whether all the valves on the chimney are open. If the chimney is completely open, but smoke continues to flow into the room, it means that the chimney ducts need to be cleaned.

The chimney must be checked and cleaned at least once a year. However, if the stove is new and high-quality fuel is used, then the chimney, in fact, should not be bothered for several years. If smoke occurs in this case, there is a risk that the masonry was done incorrectly somewhere, and you will have to invite a specialist to fix the problems.

If you follow safety rules and have a good ventilation system in your home, the stove will not be a source of danger, but will become a faithful assistant that will help out in many cases. In addition to the fact that this structure has a very wide functionality, a Russian stove will also create a unique, original flavor and special comfort in the house.

And at the end of the article - another video showing in detail the work of a specialist in the professional laying of a traditional Russian stove.

Video: The work of a master building a Russian stove