Malyutka stove Heating and cooking stove Malyutka order

All owners of country houses dream of a high-quality brick oven. But the fact is that the design of most models is quite complex, and it is extremely difficult to build them without having skills in the stove business. But there are also options (for example, a small oven) that require a minimum of time and the manufacture of which does not require specialized knowledge and skills. So, today we will tell you how to build a baby oven with your own hands.

• 1 Design features
• 2 Main advantages of the design 2.1 Video - Factory-built metal furnace-baby (Feringer)

Tool

A small stove is extremely simple to install, so any owner of a building can try himself as a stove maker. You just need to stock up on some simple tools in advance:

• Pickaxe;
• Hammer;
• Level ;
• Plumb;
• Trowel;
• Trowel - for external corners;
• The rule.

The skills of chipping a brick of the required length or chipping it at an angle come with experience. Therefore, in order not to experiment and not waste bricks purchased individually, it is better to use an angle grinder (grinder) with a disc for brick or concrete. This will allow you to get perfectly even workpieces, and not have to worry about trimming protruding uneven ends.

Heating and cooking stove "Malyutka"

For an insulated garden house, a small, compact, economical Malyutka stove with a height of no more than 2.2 m is convenient. If desired, the stove can be made higher by adding several rows between the 18th and 19th. The oven has a cooking chamber and two drying chambers. Due to its small size and mixed (flat and edge) masonry, only 250 bricks are required (up to the pipe).

The design of the stove is simple, and with little skill it is not difficult to build, but it requires a lot of shaped brick cutting.

The stove is placed on a solid foundation, which should be 5-10 cm larger than its size. In a pit dug to solid ground, broken bricks and rubble stone are poured and filled with cement in a ratio of 1:5 with cement grade M-400. The foundation should not reach the floor level by 1-2 rows.

First, the brick is selected dry in each row, then placed on a clay-sand mortar. The rows are counted on the right side, from the side of the valves. The width of the gas ducts along the walls is not less than 7.2 cm. It must be taken into account that the summer flue in the rear wall is always hot. Above its valve, the gas duct is made square, for which the bottom of the 24th row is cut off (see section B-B).

Construction of a country stove made of bricks

Order drawings for masonry with explanations.

We will need clay-sand mortar, building brick (double sand-lime brick M 150 will not work, we need clay), trowel, bucket, mixing trough, plumb line, level, asbestos cord, fireclay brick, doors, valves and other oven fittings, galvanized steel wire, hammer with pick, grinder with disc for concrete.

The oven will take up 0.4 m², and its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without a foundation. If your floor is weak, then it is better to make a screed under the masonry.

So, laying a small country stove step by step:

• On the place chosen for the stove we place roofing felt or glassine measuring 530x780 mm for waterproofing;
• Pour sand one centimeter thick on top and level it;
• According to scheme No. 1 (the figure at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks without fastening them together, and level it using a level;

Lay out the first row.

• Apply a thin layer of clay mortar. We take the blower door, wrap it with a double layer of asbestos cord and secure it with twisted wire.
• Lay out the second row of bricks.

Second row with door.

We take fireclay bricks and lay out the third row. After its formation, we install the grate. We maintain gaps for thermal expansion of materials of up to 1 cm.

We lay out a row of fireclay bricks with space for the grate.

• Using a brick placed on an edge, we lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney duct we make supports for the internal partition. We place the “kick-out bricks” of the rear wall without clay with a slight protrusion outward.
• We install the combustion door, pre-wrapped with asbestos. We fasten it with twisted wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks: we put one on the back of the butt, the other on it and the door on top.

We install the combustion door.

We lay out the fifth row flat along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. We wipe down the chimney walls with a wet rag.

We secure the door with wire.

We lay the seventh row flat from three-fours (we cut off 3/4 of the whole brick with a grinder) to connect with the eighth row. The back wall is on the edge again.

We cut the bricks with a grinder.

In the eighth row, we close the firebox door with two bricks above it. We install a beveled brick above the firebox to center the flame under the burner.

Cover the combustion door.

• We place the ninth row offset back (slightly) to keep the door open. Before laying, we lay out wet asbestos cord to seal the joints of the brick and the hob.
• In the tenth row we begin the formation of a chimney, which will gradually expand backwards. We will make an attached pipe, so as not to displace the center of gravity of the structure, or a mounted one made of light iron.

We begin to form the pipe.

In the eleventh row we lay a valve, seal it with an asbestos cord coated with clay.

There will be a valve here.

Next comes a quadruple chimney, which is connected to a light metal pipe.

We continue the chimney to the joining point.

Now we take out the knockout bricks and clean the lower part of the chimney from debris.

We bring the chimney under the pipe.

• We close the gap between the first row of bricks and the floor with a metal L-shaped sleeve and nail the baseboard.
• We whitewash the stove or cover it with stove varnish, seal all the joints between the metal and the brick. Metal parts can be painted with black fireproof paint.

We whiten and decorate the stove.

We make a test fire with paper and small branches, then give it 2 weeks to dry.

As you can see, all the manipulations are not so difficult to do on your own. Material and labor costs are relatively small, and the construction does not take up much space.

At the same time, we received a heating and cooking device that will perfectly heat a small country house, give your cooking a unique taste and aroma of smoke, and create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.

Advice! If there is an opportunity to invite a person more or less experienced in the stove business, at least as a consultant, be sure to take advantage of it, since building stoves from a book is quite difficult, it’s better to see it once.

Brick stoves are considered bulky, expensive and difficult to build. However, it is easy to see from specific examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and you can build an inexpensive, compact country stove from brick, and do it yourself.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Exploitation

The first test run can be done on the day the work is completed. You will not find such advice in any instructions for building a Russian stove. It's all about a simple scheme, since it does not contain elements containing thick layers of solution, which means it can harden solely through surface evaporation.

Although the design provides for the presence of cleaning doors, this fact should not be abused. You should choose only dry logs as fuel. The use of coniferous species should be abandoned. If the inner surface of the firebox was lined with ordinary brick, then burning coal is fraught with the detrimental effect of high temperatures on the condition of the masonry or the brick itself. That is why the advice given above was to use fireclay bricks.

The baby model has gained popularity and earned respect for its qualities. With a small space, it plays the role of a full-fledged source, capable of providing warmth and maintaining it for a certain time, and housewives appreciated the ability to cook food.

What materials are used?

The “baby” stove is made of a special type of bricks that are resistant to high temperatures. Characteristics of materials:

• Fireclay brick. An indispensable item for laying the combustion surface of the stove.
• Private. It is not suitable as a facing material, but most of the structure is laid out with this brick, so the consumption for it is maximum.
• Facing. Suitable for finishing the front part of the fireplace, you can choose your own color.

For installation, you need to purchase the appropriate oven elements, without which the structure will not function fully. In addition to bricks, the work also includes (approximate list of basic auxiliary materials):

• grate;
• combustion door;
• valve;
• blower door;
• burner stove (cast iron);
• clay solution.

Features of the “baby”

Already from the name of this model it is clear that its dimensions are more than just modest. For example, the base area is only 0.4 square meters. m. However, the ability of the “baby” to give off and retain heat is very impressive.

The structure is laid out from bricks, which are laid either flat or on an edge. Since its weight is light, there is no need to build a foundation for it. It can be erected directly on a floor made of thick boards fixed to joists.

Built with your own hands, such a stove will replace a potbelly stove. Moreover, the functionality of the “baby” is much more interesting and richer. For example, a hob is additionally installed on it, and if desired, it can be equipped with a fireplace portal, since it has a smoke tooth.

The stove is installed incredibly quickly. Moreover, if you start work in the morning, then in the evening it will be possible to carry out a test fire.

How to make it yourself

Preparatory stage of construction

At the preparation stage, you must have the following tools available:

• welding machine;
• roulette;
• bayonet shovel;
• grinder;
• waterproofing;
• scrap;
• rod;
• water and sand;
• solution.

After determining the location for the building, you need to lay the foundation for it.
The first thing the preparatory stage begins with is determining the location of the future fireplace.

It is important to position the brick stove correctly to avoid energy loss. The walls of the structure are not located near the outer walls of the room, but placing the fireplace in the center of the room is also not recommended

Not in all cases, a “baby” brick kiln is built simultaneously with the building. Sometimes you have to lay the foundation on already finished floors. If the house uses a “warm floor” system, you have to lift the entire screed. After the place for the stove has been prepared, a hole up to 35 cm deep is dug and completely covered with waterproofing. Next, the reinforcement is laid and the solution is poured.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out work

Brick is the priority material for laying furnaces. A small or large “tiny” stove, although it has simple construction drawings, a detailed diagram of the sequence of work will be useful in any case. Step-by-step instruction:

Before starting the ordering, the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt.

1. A layer of waterproofing is applied to the foundation. It is recommended to use roofing felt.
2. The order starts from the corners, three rows for each.
3. The verticality and horizontality of the plumb line are measured.
4. The laying of the first row (solid layer) must be perfectly accurate.
5. A thin layer of clay is applied to a row of bricks and three rows are placed around the perimeter. At the same time, the door is installed. Everything is done quickly and accurately.
6. A steel wire is inserted into the fastening area, the ends of which are twisted and wound in order.
7. Visible defects are eliminated using an angle grinder.
8. Grate bars are installed.
9. The next series involves the use of fireclay fire bricks and the installation of a firebox door wrapped in asbestos cord.
10. All subsequent rows are laid flat. The ordering is completed with the expectation that there is room for a slight backward shift.
11. The already installed door is covered and the stove is installed. It is recommended to buy a cast iron version for cooking.
12. The last stage is to finish the outer walls of the oven. It is used most often in such cases of whitewashing. Before starting work, it is recommended to protect all walls in the house from dirt, since removing stains from whitewash is problematic.

Drawings and diagrams

There is a sufficient amount of material available for study on the Internet. Therefore, a detailed diagram of the furnace layout is not in short supply, and variations in the layout allow each user to choose the most suitable scheme. First, you need to figure out what basic provisions the step-by-step instructions contain, and then make your own adjustments. The improved model is used directly in work. Baking a “baby” oven with your own hands is not a sky-high fantasy, but a completely realistic plan. Thanks to the clarity and clarity of the drawings, every summer resident can independently equip a similar structure at home.

About the heat exchanger

When building a brick stove with a water heating boiler with your own hands, you should take into account many factors and calculate the project as a whole. Any type of materials and structures have their advantages and disadvantages.

There are several ways to install a water register in a furnace:

• Inside the hearth;
• In the chimney;
• In the body of the stove, next to the hearth.

Depending on the location, choose the material for the heat exchanger and its shape:

• Copper - effective due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, but due to the low melting point of copper, constant circulation of water in the system is necessary;
• Steel - heat-resistant steel with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm is used for boilers. For long service life of steel structures, it is not recommended to drain water from them.
• Stainless steel is expensive, but the most suitable material for a boiler. The only disadvantages include the complexity of manufacturing.

When choosing the type of material and installation location of the heat exchanger, it is worth remembering that by placing the water circuit in the fireplace, in the summer the entire system will heat up; to avoid this, you will have to remove separate batteries to remove excess heat.

When installing a heat exchanger in the chimney, additional dampers are added to the stove design, which do not heat the boiler during summer operation of the stove. It should be taken into account that the heat exchanger must be larger in volume than when built into the fireplace. In addition, the boiler should not reduce the throughput of the smoke channels.

Calculation of power and dimensions

For normal heating of the room, it is necessary to correctly calculate the register area and its power. For a brick kiln, an approximate calculation is sufficient; it is impossible to make an exact one, due to many factors and variables.

It is known from practice that heating 10 m2 of space requires 1-1.5 kW of energy. From one square meter of heat exchanger you can get 5-10 kW. To determine the register power more accurately, you need to consider:

• Location of the coil in the furnace;
• Type of fuel - wood, coal. When burned, wood produces less thermal energy.
• Approximate temperature in the hearth and location of the heat exchanger;
• Average water temperature throughout the entire circuit;
• The heat transfer coefficient of the material from which the coil is made.

As the fuel burns, the power of the heat exchanger will decrease, so it is better to increase the calculated coil area by 10-15%.

Simple, but long lasting

The described stoves are temporary in the full sense of the word - when the need has passed, they are completely dismantled, as simply as they were made. However, in a commercial dacha or in the outbuildings of a private household, you may need a brick stove with masonry mortar, which is comparable in thermal efficiency to a house stove (60-75%), but suitable for construction directly on the floor without a foundation. The first thing you need for this is oven mortar. Ready-made dry mortar for laying stoves or stove glue is, of course, technologically simple, but not at all price-wise, so you can study the material on homemade mortars.

The next point that needs to be taken into account is the weight load from the stove to the floor. An ordinary plank floor with joists can withstand 250 kgf/sq.m. m, but building a “real” such a light brick oven is unrealistic. However, it is still possible to place a brick stove without a foundation on the floor even in a light frame building, provided that the stove will only be on the ground floor, see below.

In terms of weight in this case, the well-known summer stove made of 200 bricks is more or less suitable (see figure below). It weighs (without fuel and utensils) approx. 890 kg, and its supporting area is 0.736 sq. m, i.e. its weight load is 1209 kgf. However, you can’t bring the materials for this stove in one car trip, the design is a bit complicated for beginners, and the oven (3 in the figure below) and the hot water tank (4) are unnecessary for a simple stove (other designations: 1 - fire door; 2 - blower door; 5 – cleaning door).

Cooking stove for summer kitchen

A simple brick oven, the drawings and order of which are given below. Fig., weighs 540 kg. The reduction in the number of bricks to 118 was achieved by eliminating the oven with a water heater, as well as a different, less convenient cleaning arrangement. Support area 0.468 sq. m; weight load 1154 kgf. Although the pressure from this furnace on the floor has not decreased much, all the materials for it can be brought in one trip by car, and the brick undercuts can be made with a hammer or a chisel. Thermal efficiency and heat output remained approximately the same, approx. 60% and 700 kcal/hour.

Step-by-step instructions for making a mini-oven

Taking into account the layout of the mini-oven for the dacha, let's get to work.

Masonry from 1 to 12 rows

The first row is laid out, and in the second it is necessary to provide space for the blower door. The rows must be coated with the solution. Before installing the blower door, it must be wrapped with asbestos, and the door will be secured with wire.

Next, a row is laid out using refractory bricks and a mixture of refractory clay.

During the laying of the row, a grate is installed. Starting from this row, right up to the masonry, it should be done with refractory bricks.

A firebox door should be installed in the row, with which the same work should be done as with the door for the blower (wrapped with asbestos, secured with wire).

We lay out the row according to the layout. Each layer must be coated with a solution. 8, 9, 10, 11 and rows are laid out in accordance with the layout.

Masonry from 13 to 24 rows

From the row we begin to form the combustion chamber and vertical channels. The main thing here is to carefully follow the procedures, otherwise you may violate the correctness of the design.

On the 15th row it is necessary to lay out a layer of clay-cement mortar. It will strengthen the bottom of the cleaning chamber, after which you can install the door itself.

Masonry from 25 to 35 rows

Further up to the row we lay the masonry in accordance with the instructions.

In the 25th row, the bottom surface of the second cleaning chamber should be sealed, also laying this row with clay-sand mortar, and then install the door.

Next, we lay the bricks in accordance with the order, forming a chimney channel.

In the 28th and 32nd rows, two valves should be installed, with the help of which the draft will be regulated.

Next we begin to raise the chimney pipe, as shown in the layout.

If everything is done correctly, after completing all the work you should end up with a compact model like this.

This model has the following dimensions: 51 cm width, 89 cm depth and 2.38 m height. Even beginners can make such a stove. In addition, if you do not have experience in the furnace business, then it is not recommended to make more complex models, since you can get confused in the procedures and damage the integrity of the structure, which will affect the quality of its operation and service life.

Small size and the ability to quickly and efficiently heat are the main reasons for the construction of small-sized brick stoves. These characteristics are achieved in a variety of ways, differing in masonry and design options.

What is this article about?

How to build it yourself

The baby oven is built with your own hands in stages. First you need to decide on the location of the furnace and begin forming the foundation. To do this, a bedding is laid on the selected place; it can be polyethylene or another oilcloth base. It is necessary to pour a centimeter layer of ordinary sand on it. Then you can start laying.

Order

1 row. Place 12 bricks on prepared sand; no fastening is required. The bricks are covered with a layer of mortar; immediately fasten the door for blowing in asbestos.

2nd row. Lay out on top of the first layer.

3rd row. Fireclay bricks are used. A grate is placed on top; it should subsequently be located above the ash pit.

4 row. The masonry is done with an edge, and a partition is left in the chimney. When laying the back wall, you do not need to use mortar; the bricks should protrude slightly to the outside. You can begin installing the firebox door, previously wrapped in several layers of asbestos. You need to wrap it taking into account that the door should open freely.

5 row. This row must be laid flat along the contour of the previous one.

6th row. Edge laying. The chimney should be wiped with a wet rag.

7th row. Like the 5th row, it is laid flat; you need to start with a three-quarter row.

8 row. Two bricks are placed on top to close the door. For this row you will need a beveled brick; it will serve as a kind of canopy.

9 row. Must be offset to support the open state of the door. Moistened asbestos must first be laid.

10 row. The formation of the chimney begins with it. It lines up expanding backwards. Taking into account the design of the crumb stove, it must be remembered that the installation of a brick superstructure is impossible due to the shifted center of gravity of the entire stove.

11 row. We proceed to the installation of a valve sealed with asbestos, lubricated with clay.

The next step is to remove the knockout bricks and clear the bottom of the chimney of debris.

The little oven with your own hands is almost ready, all that remains is to do the whitewashing. To prevent the oven from turning yellow later, you need to add blue and milk to the mixture.

Without properly organized heating, comfortable living in a private home is out of the question. However, there is often a need to install heating in other secondary rooms. In such situations, compact heating and cooking stoves of the “Malyutka” type will be an excellent solution.

Such a unit will be able to heat a small country house, workshop and other premises with an area of ​​up to 25-35 m2. The baby stove is built in the shortest possible time from available materials. After reading the following recommendations, you can install the stove unit with your own hands without any problems.

Foundation structure

Despite its modest size and light weight, a small stove requires a foundation. It can be done unburdened - just remove the fertile layer of soil.

But, it is necessary to bring the cement pouring plane to the “horizontal”

This is important because the furnace support area is very small: from 0.47 to 1 m2. At a height of 2000 - 2200 mm, the slightest misalignment of the base can lead to the collapse of the stove

The arrangement sequence is extremely simple:

• A hole is dug, 300=450 mm deep. The perimeter of the pit should exceed the perimeter of the furnace by 100 - 150 mm.
• A layer of sand 100–150 mm thick is poured onto the bottom.
• The sand is moistened and compacted.
• The next layer is broken brick or construction waste (stone) – 200–250 mm.
• The top layer is fine crushed stone (fraction 5–20 mm).
• After this, formwork is arranged (plywood, boards, slate, drywall scraps, metal sheets) - whatever you can find. The height of the formwork should be 50 mm higher than the level of the finished floor, so that there is no leakage of cold air from the subfloor.
• Pre-cut reinforcement bars are laid out on the crushed stone and fastened with annealed steel wire or welding.
• The solution for pouring is prepared from a cement-sand-crushed stone mixture in the proportion: 1: 1.6: 3.2. After pouring, the foundation slab is allowed to “mature”. In the first week after pouring, the surface is moistened by covering it with sackcloth or burlap, and watering it with water as the fabric dries. At the end of the first week, the fabric can be removed and the surface of the foundation slab can be covered with polyethylene or roofing felt.

Full strength gain occurs 30 days after pouring.

Choosing a location for the oven

Despite its very modest size, the stove is ideal for heating rooms with an area of ​​14–50 m2. It cannot be called the most economical in terms of fuel consumption, but 3.5–5 kg of solid fuel is usually enough for the stove to fully warm up and begin to heat the room.

Such an oven heats up evenly on all 4 sides. This must be taken into account when choosing the place where it will be installed. In wooden buildings with fire-protected walls, the distance from the stove to the wall of the house should not be less than half a meter. And also you should not install the stove in the center of the room. With such an installation, the circulation of heated air will be extremely unfavorable, and the corners of the room will freeze.

The best option is to install the stove to the right or left of the front door, at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the door jamb. In this case, the cold air entering through the door will not spread along the floor across the entire area of ​​the room and create dangerous drafts.

The order of the furnace laying

First, choose a place for the oven.

Scheme of laying the stove - small

In the place where the stove is supposed to be located, place polyethylene film, roofing felt, waterproofing or glassine (780x530mm). After the bedding is laid, a layer of dry sand 1 cm thick is poured onto it and leveled. The first row, consisting of 12 bricks, is laid out on this sand without bonding. The row must be leveled to ensure correct horizontality. It is necessary to apply a thin layer of clay mortar on top and install a blower door. The door should be wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard or with cord. Next, the door is secured, after which the laying out of the second row begins.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay out the third row. A grate must be installed on top of the third row. It should be above the blower after the row is formed.

To lay out the fourth row, the brick is placed on its edge, and a stand for the internal partition is placed inside the chimney. The back wall of the oven is laid without clay mortar so that the brick protrudes slightly outward.

Now you need to start installing the fire door. Before installing it, it is wrapped in several turns of asbestos cord, and it should be possible to open it both from above and from below. The door needs to be secured with wire and fixed temporarily with two bricks (one on the back, the other on it, and the door on top).

The brick of the fifth row is laid flat along the contour of the previous row.

Option for laying a small stove

The sixth row of bricks must be laid edgewise. Then wipe the chimney with a wet rag.

The seventh is placed flat again, starting with the three-quarter, to ensure connection with the next row. The back part should consist of two bricks laid edgewise.

The eighth row closes the fire door; it is completed by two bricks laid on top. This row is laid out using beveled bricks, which should hang over the firebox. This is necessary so that the flame moves to the center of the hob burner when the stove is used as a fireplace with the combustion door open.

The ninth row moves back to keep the door open. Before laying the brick, you need to lay a moistened asbestos cord to ensure the tightness of the joints between the cast iron hob and the brick. The slab should not be laid directly on clay, since there is a difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of the contacting materials (clay and cast iron).

On the tenth row, a chimney is formed; it should have a gradual expansion back. The design of the furnace must be taken into account, which does not allow the installation of a packed brick pipe due to upward expansion. When installing such a pipe, the center of gravity of the entire structure shifts. Therefore, an attached or packed pipe made of light iron is installed.

On the eleventh row you need to install a valve sealed with an asbestos cord lubricated with clay.

Scheme of laying brick rows for a small stove

Now a chimney is placed in the quadrangle, which needs to be connected to a light metal pipe. When the pipe is moved to the side, an overlap of 3 rows of bricks is made.

The knockout bricks are removed and the lower part of the chimney is cleaned of debris and moisture that entered during the work.

Now you can start whitewashing the stove. Milk and blue are added to the whitewash so that the stove does not turn yellow over time.

Next, a plinth is nailed to edge the bottom of the stove and prevent sand from spilling out from under the stove.

So the little brick oven is ready. The doors are left open for a couple of weeks to dry.

About the safe location of the structure

To check the corners of the structure during work, use plumb lines made using nails nailed to the ceiling. This way you will be able to determine as accurately as possible how to position the pipe. after that, proceed to create an opening in the ceiling. It is important that the fire cutting parameter be taken into account. If you follow this safety parameter, the distance between the chimney and the wooden components will be at least 250 millimeters. Otherwise - if for some reason this is impossible to do - create a partition using several layers of burlap (the thickness should be 10-20 millimeters). Pre-soak the burlap with a clay-based solution. Place metal sheets on top of the material.

Note! You should never, under any circumstances, ignore fire safety requirements! Before starting the oven for the first time, make sure that its operation will not lead to unauthorized ignition. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to experienced specialists.

For added safety, securely fasten a sheet of steel below, in front of the combustion chamber. According to many years of experience, a small stove can heat the temperature in a room with a volume of 30 cubic meters to 20 degrees (if the temperature outside is about minus twenty), using only 11-12 kilograms of dry wood. Of course, the fact that the ceilings in this building are double, as well as the window frames, is also taken into account, and the walls are properly insulated. However, the results are truly impressive and they only apply to the first heating. In the future, to achieve a similar result, only 5 kilograms of the same fuel will be required.

Video - Firing a small stove

Now - directly to production!

Brick stove for home

Previously, we talked about how to build a brick stove for your home yourself; in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information and read about it here

Foundation arrangement

By building a foundation, you will provide your future structure with a reliable foundation. If you use any unprepared floor covering, then over time you cannot avoid its deformation. This will lead to damage to the integrity of the masonry, which may require complete disassembly of the stove to restore. However, the small mass of the device cannot but affect the requirements for the foundation; they are much less stringent than for traditional models.

A pit is necessary, but its depth can reach only 45 cm. The pillow is made of sand, which must be compacted tightly. You can use water for these purposes, only then you will have to dry it. The foundation volume is reinforced with metal wire and filled with cement mortar. To prevent cracks from forming during the long period of cement hardening, its surface is covered with porous material and gradually wetted over the first few days.

KROKHA OVEN, version N3 improved

IDEAS FOR THE HOME > PROJECTS OF STOVES, FIREPLACES, MANGALS

This heating and cooking
stove is a crumb, version 3 (improved).
was published in the magazine “Dom” No. 10 for 2008. The author of the article is A. Sushkov from St. Petersburg. The furnace has good heating in the lower part, and in the upper part there is a “hood” that slows down the cooling of the furnace mass after firing. Among other things, the design provides for a “summer” operation, which makes it easier to light the stove and allows you to use the stove for cooking without heating the room. The stove is equipped with a single-burner cast iron stove. The firebox and cooking chamber in this version of the stove are located on the wide side of the stove. The depth of the firebox is 50 cm. When building a furnace, the best available brick must be selected for the firebox, since there is no additional lining here. This is understandable, because this stove will not be heated every day, but only from time to time, when you visit the dacha and in appropriate weather. The stove has dimensions at the base of 64x77 cm or 2.5x3 bricks, and its height is only 203 cm. Moreover the height can either be reduced or increased depending on how much the ceiling in your home allows. At the same time, we should not forget that at least 35 cm must remain from the top of the stove to the ceiling. With the indicated dimensions, the heat transfer will be approximately 1760 W with a one-time firebox, and 2940 W with a two-time firebox. The size of the heated room at this power will be 18-22 m2.

MENU

×

• PROJECTS: FIREPLACES, STOVES, BBQ, BBQ
• Brick stove for a bath
• Simple heater stove for a bath
• Heater stove with water boiler
• DIY barbecue in the gazebo
• Barbecue complex for a summer residence part 1
• Barbecue complex for a summer residence, part 2
• Barbecue complex for a summer residence part 3
• Making a barbecue with a kitchen stove
• How to calculate the heat loss of a room
• How to calculate the heat output of a furnace
• Chimney diagrams
• Mini fireplace for a country house
• Corner fireplace “Annushka”
• Double bell oven
• Double-bell oven with oven
• Heating and cooking stove 2.5 x 6 bricks
• Heating and cooking stove 1020 x 770
• Heating and cooking stove for 65 70 m2
• Stove with water heating boiler
• Oven with drying chamber
• Heating and cooking stove "Shvedka"
• Stove "Swedish" for 2 floors
• "Swedish" stove with a stove bench
• Shvedka stove with three combustion modes
• Swedish stove with fireplace
• Oven crumb options 1 and 2
• Baby oven option 3
• Small-sized heating stove 2x3
• Heating stove 1880x640 “Ya.G. Porfiryev"
• Heating stove 51x89 cm “V. Bykov"
• Heating stove 51 x 140 cm “V. Bykov"
• Heat-intensive furnace
• Compact stove with fireplace
• Small stove with fireplace
• Stove with fireplace “E. Doctorova"
• Fireplace stove for a summer residence
• Homemade long-burning stove

LIKED THE OVEN PROJECT?

YOU CAN BUY ITS DRAWING IN WORD and PDF FORMAT FOR ONLY 75 RUBLES

!OR
ALL 35
PROJECTS OF STOVES, FIREPLACES, BBQ AND BBQ, DRAWINGS + ORDINARY LAYOUT FOR ONLY
490 RUBLES
!

BUY A FULL SET - 490 RUBLES (click - buy, then place an order)

BUY THIS PROJECT FOR 75 RUBLES (click - buy, then place an order)

Still have questions? Feel free to ask them, we’ll solve them!

Formation of heating equipment

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the Malyutka stove will be installed, and also prepare an exact diagram with dimensions and order. The general principles of stoves are also suitable for a small fireplace. Installation is carried out at a safe distance from the walls (approximately 25 cm), the stove should not be in a draft, and the chimney should not touch the ceiling beams. Safety principles must be fully observed - walls, ceiling and floor are insulated with fire-resistant materials.

For construction we will need:

• red stove brick (solid);
• fireclay brick (for firebox);
• clay or cement mortar M300;
• reinforcing rod;
• ash door;
• grate;
• fire door (if you choose a glass door, the baby can serve as a fireplace);
• cast iron hob;
• valve

Tools needed:

• trowel (leveling the solution, cutting seams);
• hammer and pick (for bricks);
• level;
• Master OK;
• plumb line (weight with cord) for checking angles;
• rule (a wooden ruler with a cross-section of 1.5 x 6 cm and a length of 1-1.5 m, having parallel planes) for evenness of the masonry;
• roulette.

Foundation

A solid multifunctional stove will require a foundation; rubble concrete will be more economical.
The pit must be at least 80x65 cm, formwork from boards is installed in it, covered with plywood or roofing felt and filled with concrete. Next, broken bricks and rubble stone are laid out, everything is filled with cement (ratio 1 to 3). The last step is to cover it with several layers of roofing felt insulation. It is recommended to use M300 concrete as a fill; it is strong and durable. Its hardening time is about 25 days.

If the brick oven is planned to be light, without constant intensive combustion, then the first row of bricks should be laid on a layer of insulation:

• polyethylene film;
• roofing felt;
• hydroisyl, glassine;
• dry sand 1 cm.

Furnace order

The first and second rows are aligned, each row is checked with a level.

Third - a blower is laid out on the front part, its dimensions are half the size of the firebox.

The fourth is the installation of a steel window in the ash pit; it is covered with a grate on top.

Fifth - fixing the grate, circular masonry.

The sixth is the beginning of laying out the firebox. The window is slightly narrowed for convenience.

The seventh is installing the firebox door. The firebox must be firmly held in the masonry; for this purpose, the fastenings are wrapped with asbestos cord.

Eighth - a strip of sheet steel is installed on top of the firebox.

From the ninth to the eleventh - circular masonry.

Twelfth, thirteenth - the formation of the rear wall, it is laid on the dock, and two small grooves are formed.

Fourteenth - the grooves are increased by half a brick, the rest of the space is laid out with bricks.

Fifteenth is a place for a channel; an oblong channel is left near the back and side walls. In the main masonry, a compartment is made with a supporting brick in the center (under the column).

Sixteenth - strips of steel are laid on the column, they form another channel.

Seventeenth - the channels are separated and form four channels under the walls and one in the center.

From eighteen to twenty-two - continuation of channels.

The twenty-third and twenty-fourth channels, except for the central one, connect and form an L-shape.

Twenty-fifth - channels, except for the central one, are covered with brick.

From twenty-sixth to twenty-eighth - the dimensions of the masonry are narrowed to the size of the pipe (chimney).

Twenty-nine - installing the damper.

From the thirtieth - the formation of a chimney and its output to the street.

During the laying process, it is necessary to make dressings one second or one fourth of the brick. Every six rows the masonry must be wiped with a damp cloth. And in order for the corners to be even, it is better to install plumb lines on the ceiling (temporarily on nails). During laying, the brick must be installed flat and on edge for the stability of the structure.

Features of the structure of the Malyutka stove

The baby has a long list of advantages, the main ones of which are: low cost of construction, simplicity of design, high heat transfer. The compact size will make it easy to find the location of the new stove without a major redevelopment of the house. A do-it-yourself brick stove can serve as a fireplace in a separate room where it is necessary to increase the level of comfort. Wood, coal and anthracite can be used as fuel. The device has excellent heat transfer, capable of heating a room of up to 35 square meters with just one firebox. meters or two adjacent rooms with a total area of ​​up to 50 sq. meters. The stove can be heated even with low-quality wood left over from spring cleaning or gardening. Due to the simplicity of the design, such a stove can be easily built with your own hands and even modified depending on emerging needs. For example, it is possible to add a hood, oven and additional surfaces for cooking. A few cast-iron coverings, fire-resistant bricks, and you get not only an inexpensive form of heating, but also a cooking stove for your dacha. The baby heating and cooking stove has the following parameters:

• height – 210 cm;
• base – 63 X 50.5 cm;
• chimney cross-section dimensions – 130 X 130 mm;
• weight – 1260 kg.

Drawing with order

Designed by the famous stove master of the last century, V. Volodin, the combined heating and cooking stove-baby, with a minimum occupied space of 0.47 m2, allows not only to fully heat a room of 30 m2, but also:

• Cook ;
• Dry vegetables, berries, mushrooms, herbs;
• Use for drying clothes and shoes.

A distinctive feature of the design is a separate hood for the brewing compartment. The smell from cooking food or drying clothes does not penetrate into the room.

The stove is not very economical in fuel consumption (based on firewood) - 4–5 kg per firebox. Capable of retaining heat and maintaining a comfortable room temperature for 6–8 hours.

The finished oven looks like this:

Advantages of the model

Each project option is created to perform specific tasks. It is pointless to compare all models with each other, since under some conditions those characteristics that are not considered fundamental under other conditions may be important. Therefore, it is customary to highlight the advantages of the presented model. Our little brick oven is not without such a list.

• In order to install a Russian stove, you will need to sacrifice a significant part of the usable area. The very purpose of the baby suggests that high performance is not expected from her. But the compactness is appreciated by the owners of small country houses.
• The absence of elements made of heat-resistant materials is noted as a positive point. But in this matter, the choice remains with the master, since some professional builders still advise covering the firebox area with fireclay bricks.
• The simplicity of the construction scheme makes it possible to obtain a finished device at relatively low costs within a short period of time.
• Even when the stove operates in normal mode, fuel savings are noted, which will eliminate the need to stock up huge volumes of firewood.
• Some experts claim that this model does not require a foundation. Theoretically, a durable floor covering can withstand the load from the weight of the structure, but if you care about reliability not for one year, but for decades, then you should think about the foundation. In non-residential premises, the baby can be erected on a foundation using a concrete slab.

Examples of simple stoves
Date: September 25, 2022

Recommendations for use

The stove does not require maintenance. To avoid undesirable consequences, you must follow the rules for using a mini-oven :

• You cannot fire two fireboxes at the same time. In this case, the ash and combustion doors of the unused firebox must be tightly closed;
• Do not use flammable liquids such as gasoline or kerosene for kindling;
• keep the heater damper closed. If there is a need to open it, then first you need to open the ventilation duct valve;
• monitor the amount of ash. Remove it in a timely manner, otherwise there will be no fuel savings, because it will absorb heat and the heating of the rooms will deteriorate. It is better to do this procedure at least twice a week;
• you need to let the fuel warm up well for ten minutes, and only then start cooking food in the oven;
• It is not very practical to use paper for kindling - it burns quickly. It’s better to put wood chips or birch bark in the oven;
• Check periodically for any cracks in your stove. If any are found, they need to be repaired. If the damage is significant, then major repairs will have to be made. A clear indicator of a problem is a decrease in the heating temperature produced by the stove. The house has become colder - inspect the stove;
• It is preferable to carry out repairs in the warm season, when the stove is not used for heating;
• Before burning fuel, you need to close the doors of the ash pit and fireboxes;
• you need to clean the chimney in a timely manner;
• It’s better to start heating the stove during the day, then by the evening the whole room will warm up;
• It is preferable that the fuel be dry. And to ensure that it is not exposed to moisture and water and does not become damp, store it in a specially designated place. It should be dry and closed;
• It is desirable that the logs are approximately the same thickness and length. This is necessary because thin ones burn too quickly, and thick ones, on the contrary. The house will not be heated well enough in this way;
• stack the logs not randomly, but in a certain order. First, rake the coals with a poker closer to the door. Place a log across it. Then thinner firewood is laid obliquely, and thicker firewood is laid on top of it.