Cast iron batteries are one of the most popular. They were installed by default in all apartments. If you haven't done a major overhaul, then most likely you still have similar radiators. Sometimes after repairs such batteries are left in their places. Of course, they need to be cleaned of old paint and dirt, restored, and then they will look great and continue to warm you with their warmth. For restoration, the radiators will have to be dismantled. Therefore, next we will talk about how to disassemble a cast iron battery.
It is believed that cast iron radiators are a thing of the past. But they are still produced, although manufacturers are creative in design. They try to give them an original look so that they fit perfectly into the interior. This is especially true for classic designs, where modern bimetallic radiators will look tasteless.
Can you see everyone?
Why are we talking about different ways to dismantle radiators?
How do they differ in connection methods?
- Fittings used. Traditionally, for the installation of Soviet-style cast iron radiators, a combination of a conduit (a pipe with a long thread) and a lock nut were used; now the batteries are more often connected with American ones - quick-dismount fittings with union nuts;
The photo shows the connection of an aluminum sectional radiator by an American woman.
Connection on the lines.
The location of the connections relative to the radiator. The connection can be one-way or two-way
This is important when installing on squeegees: one of the radiator plugs through passage will have a left-hand thread.
A special case
- In many houses built in the 80s and 90s, convectors are used as heating devices. The convector is a coil made of a steel pipe of the same diameter as the riser, with fins that increase heat transfer. The typical method of connecting a convector and a steel line is a butt weld.
The heating device is connected to the riser by welded seams.
Product design
The aluminum radiator is a structure of separate sections connected to each other using nipple nuts. Essentially, this connecting element is a cylinder with an external thread on each side. The cylinder is empty inside. Radiator sections are screwed onto each nipple nut on both sides.
The connecting elements are located at both the top and bottom of the battery. Thus, each radiator section is attached to the adjacent one at four points. The nipple nut is made in such a way that it is completely invisible in the assembled product.
Inside each connecting element there are protrusions that serve for the installation procedure. A special tool clings to them, with the help of which the nut is unscrewed and tightened. In this case, you should take into account the direction of the thread - on some elements it is right-handed, on others it is left-handed.
To avoid playing the guessing game, just pay attention to the markings in the appropriate areas. If the letter D is indicated there, this means that the thread is right-handed
The letter S indicates left
It is very important not to mix it up, since trying to unscrew the nut in the opposite direction can lead to thread breakage and, consequently, damage to the element
Dismantling aluminum options
Aluminum batteries are monolithic, there are some variations with sections, but usually they are just two radiators connected together. Their dismantling simply involves draining the water from the system and unscrewing it from the pipe. Often it is enough to overlap the pipe that goes to the radiator itself and the pipe that comes from it. Each aluminum battery has a special valve through which water can be drained. The radiator is unscrewed from the pipe using a regular gas wrench.
Work algorithm
Installing a new one is much easier than removing an old battery. It is possible to do such work yourself without the help of specialists.
The important thing is that when performing work you must strictly adhere to the rules and regulations. When installing the battery, it is imperative to monitor its level, which must be strictly vertical, which is checked by the building level
If this is not done, the system may compromise its tightness and thermal characteristics.
In cases where several cast iron radiators need to be installed in one room, they must be level with each other without error. The easiest way would be to install the fasteners (brackets) using a laser level and then control the installation of the radiator.
The main material for such “patterns and templates” is plywood, which is slightly larger than the structure itself. There are special places on this template that indicate the places of fastenings through which holes for fastenings are drilled. The number of brackets must be equal to the number of blocks in the radiator. Typically, 1 bracket goes per 1 linear meter. The fasteners are mounted according to the level, they should be at zero, without deviations.
Holes are drilled where the marks were indicated. You can drill with either a hammer drill or a hand drill, but it will take a very long time. The depth and diameter must match the fastening so that it extends 13 cm or more. The next step is to cover the holes with mortar to prevent the brackets from falling out. They will be ready for work only after the solution on which they are laid is ready.
The requirements for fastening the brackets were made for a reason due to the enormous weight of the cast iron battery itself. It, but under load, weighs about 12 kg, and not all, but each section, of which there are usually 5.
When everything is ready, the brackets are reattached, the radiator is assembled, all that remains is to mount the radiator on the wall and connect it to the system. Before this stage, it is necessary to remove the plugs. All threaded joints are coated with some tow or foam. This is done to improve the tightness characteristics, as well as eliminate the possibility of leakage.
The main property of cast iron is slow cooling. That is why tools, kitchen utensils and radiators were made from cast iron. This is due to the fact that such radiators retain heat much longer, so replacing them, unless they are broken, is completely unprofitable. The exception is areas with a mild and warm climate, where heating is practically not needed.
Tips for installing and dismantling radiators are in the next video.
Installation procedure
Work on installing bimetallic batteries must be carried out in a certain sequence:
- mark places for installing brackets on the wall;
- We secure the brackets with dowels and cement mortar (if we are talking about a reinforced concrete or brick wall) or double-sided fastening (if it is a plasterboard partition);
- We place the battery strictly horizontally on the already installed brackets;
- connect the radiator to the pipes, install a faucet or thermostatic valve;
- We put the air valve at the top of the radiator.
Note! An air valve (preferably an automatic one) must be installed, since a small formation of gases occurs inside the device
Do-it-yourself disassembly and assembly of an aluminum radiator
The area where the radiator restoration will be carried out is covered with thick fabric. If this is a table surface, then the main work will not take place in weight. The prepared area will protect the soft aluminum from receiving unnecessary deformations and scratches.
Important! Before removing the union couplings, a rag is spread under the radiator to protect the floor from dirty liquid that may leak out during dismantling. You need to have a rag on hand to absorb any remaining moisture remaining inside the sections
Disconnection from the heating network
Before disassembly begins, the radiator is disconnected from the heating network using shut-off valves. If there are no shut-off valves at the radiator, then a housing and communal services worker is invited to turn off the heating riser for repair work.
During the heating season, after shutting off the radiator, they take a break. Since the water in it is still hot, wait for a while until the liquid cools down, and then disconnect the radiator from the heating pipes.
The coolant remaining in the battery is poured into a previously prepared bucket and the sections begin to be separated. Immediately after dismantling, the inner surface of the battery is washed with running water.
How to disassemble and reassemble the battery
Aluminum sections connected by nipple nuts. The inner part of such a connector has protrusions by which the nipple wrench grabs the nut and unscrews it. The nut is similar to a coupling, only it has external threads. One nipple nut has both right-hand and left-hand threads. They are made in pairs for the top and bottom connections. When the nipple is untwisted, the sections move apart, and when twisted, they are pulled together.
All plugs and adapters are pre-twisted from the ends. The connector must be accessible from all sides by the nipple wrench.
Photo 1. Fastening sections of an aluminum radiator to each other: the nipple nuts unscrew when disconnected.
To disassemble the battery, place the tool blade through the open end of the radiator into the grooves of the unscrewed upper nipple nut and, with some pressure, make a test rotation counterclockwise to move the connection. If the key turns the nut normally, then insert it into the grooves of the lower nipple nut and, as in the first case, try to turn it a couple of turns.
Important! When unscrewing connectors, the sequence of actions must be followed to avoid distortion. After disconnection, the exposed thread is carefully examined for cracks and chips, and for the integrity of the thread.
If necessary, the joints are cleaned with fine emery cloth.
After disconnection, the exposed thread is carefully examined for cracks and chips, and for the integrity of the thread. If necessary, the joints are cleaned with fine emery cloth.
When assembling the radiator sections, paronite O-rings are placed on the upper and lower nipple nuts and placed between the sections. I lightly press the sections together and screw them together alternately. Turning the nuts to prevent distortion is limited to two turns of the wrench.
If something went wrong
During operation, the joints between sections and steel nuts stick to each other. This comes from the quality of the coolant supplied to the heating system. Sometimes even significant physical efforts are useless.
Although adhesion must be dealt with, aluminum warps easily because it is a soft metal.
By heating the joints with a construction hairdryer, you can overcome stuck rust. If this doesn’t help either, because the corrosive build-up is too corrosive, then the edger gets to work.
Advice. If the nipple nut does not turn off under great pressure, then there is no need to increase the applied force with excessive leverage. In the worst case scenario, not only will the nut itself break, but both sections that sit tightly on the nut will crack.
The leaky section is cut off with a grinder, from the reverse side and at a distance from the edge of the joint by no less than half the length of the coupling. This protects the working section from destruction and does not cut the connecting nut. During cutting, the rust bounces off, making it easier to unscrew the surviving section.
During assembly, it is advisable to replace old gaskets with new ones and clean the joints, paying attention to defects and irregularities. Sealed connection protects against premature leaks
Step-by-step description of dismantling work
A few words about when it may be necessary to disassemble a heating battery:
- In case of replacing an old radiator with a new one that has greater performance and better appearance.
- If necessary, add additional sections for the battery.
- If it is necessary to replace a separate section or gasket that has leaked.
The instructions begin with preparing the necessary tools:
Step #1: preparing tools
Photo of nipple wrench
Gas key sample
Advice: a nipple wrench, taking into account the fact that it is very rarely needed on the farm, and its price is not the lowest, it is recommended not to buy, but to rent. This will save the family budget.
Step #2: Disconnecting the Battery
Before disassembling an aluminum or cast iron radiator, you must disconnect it from the heating system. To do this, it is imperative to turn off the heating and drain the water from the riser, otherwise you will simply flood the room and get burns.
Advice: before starting dismantling, it is recommended to cover the floor under the radiator with film, rags, or at least newspapers to avoid contact with residual liquid that may end up in the circuit even after draining the riser.
Further, depending on the complexity, three situations can be distinguished:
- Polypropylene pipes. In this case, the coupling connection, as a rule, is twisted with bare hands, without causing any difficulties.
- Steel new. With some effort, you will most likely be able to untwist the inlet and outlet cords of the battery using a gas wrench.
Disconnecting new steel pipes
- Old steel or cast iron pipes. First we try, removing the paint from the joint with a blowtorch and a metal brush, we try to unscrew the connection as described in the previous version. But in systems that have worked for a long time, this most often does not give results, and then we simply cut off the runoff with a grinder or an autogen.
Cutting old squeegees using a grinder
After disconnecting the battery from the pipes, remove it from the hooks and lay it on a flat surface.
Step #3: disassembling the radiator
Battery sections disconnection diagram
A piece of pipe or crowbar
The battery can be cast iron, aluminum or bimetallic.
The most difficult option to analyze is the first one listed, so let’s start with it:
- How to disassemble a cast iron heating radiator on your own:
Carefully, check the thread progress on the futurkas or plugs, which can be either left or right. We insert the nipple wrench inside and increase its torque using a piece of pipe or a crowbar. We tear off the thread by turning the tool a quarter turn, first at the top and then at the bottom. Then we also alternately continue to unscrew the nipples so that the radiator does not warp. The main problem with old batteries is that the seals can become stuck during many years of use and cannot be turned on. In this case, the connection point must be heated in a circular motion with a blowtorch, and then try to unscrew the nipple again
We repeat the procedure until the thread gives way. If it still doesn’t work out, then you’ll have to cut it with an autogenous gun.
Disassembled old cast iron heating radiator
- Let's find out how to disassemble a bimetallic or aluminum radiator? The procedure is almost the same as described above, but has several differences:
- A smaller nipple wrench is used.
- So much effort is not required when unscrewing the nipples.
- Plugs and futuroks are marked with the thread direction in the form of the letters S and D, where the first indicates the left stroke, and the second - the right.
- The metal gaskets located between the sections are wiped, polished and stored until the subsequent assembly of the battery.
Disassembling an aluminum battery
After completing the described tasks, you can replace the leaking part, add a section, or even install a new radiator in place of the old one.
In what cases are batteries removed?
More often than others, it is necessary to dismantle a cast iron heating radiator that has already served its purpose. But sometimes you have to decide how to remove a bimetallic radiator. Modern heating devices are the easiest to dismantle.
Work to dismantle the heating radiator may be necessary under the following circumstances:
When cast iron batteries leak between sections. At the same time, the distance from the eyeliner is small, there are many sections. With a regular radiator wrench, it may be impossible to reach the nipples that are located on the side of the blind plugs. Therefore, you have to remove the device from the eyeliner side. To do emergency dismantling, you need to know in advance how to properly remove the heating battery. If leaks form in the drainage areas on the connection to the battery
To change the connection (no matter thread or welding), the device must be dismantled. Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace the radiator with another device, with more favorable power characteristics or a more modern design.
Radiators must be removed for preventive maintenance to remove scale inside. Sometimes this is done by annealing. After this procedure, replacement of the intersection gaskets is required. When renovating an apartment for gluing or painting the wall behind the radiator, it must be removed. It is not recommended to glue wallpaper near radiators during the heating season; they will not stick, so you need to take care of this in advance. There are other cases: for example, it was decided to convert a one-pipe system to a two-pipe one. Radiators must be carefully removed to be reused.
Aluminum appliances require special care.
Tools you will need to get the job done
First of all, to work, you should find out the exact dimensions of aluminum radiators.
To measure them you will need a construction tape or a special folding meter. Also, if both types of instruments are not available, you can use a standard student ruler. It should be noted that most rulers are only 30 centimeters long, so you will have to make marks on the radiator (it is better to use a pencil, which is easily washed off the surface). Each new mark will be the end of the previous measurement and the beginning of a new one. The resulting dimensions are added to form the true size. Disassembling aluminum radiators also requires other tools that it is advisable to use for dismantling work, namely:
- A complete set of wrenches (socket and ring).
- Radiator key.
- Pliers.
- Screwdriver.
Building process
Before you expand the heating battery, if it is cast iron, you should remember that this can only be done after the end of the heating season! After all, in order to add new sections of such batteries, it will be necessary to completely disassemble the batteries. And if this is carried out in winter, then the entire system will need to be shut down. And if you live in an apartment building, it is unlikely that any of your neighbors will agree to spend several hours without heat.
Therefore, such a process should be postponed until warmer times. How to build up a heating radiator made of cast iron? Let's look at the process in more detail. We will need the following tools:
- Radiator or adjustable wrenches;
- Nipples are clearly for cast iron radiators (the number depends on the sections);
- Special gaskets to install them between sections.
- Side plugs with gaskets.
So, before you add a cast iron radiator, you will need to remove and disassemble it. Don't forget to turn off the water first!
If the batteries are not new, there may be a build-up of rust and dirt between the sections. To install the gasket and connect the battery sections, such build-up will need to be removed. This is done either with sandpaper or a wire brush.
When you attach the nipple, pay attention to the position of the thread. We begin to twist the nipple on the left, first it is best to attach it approximately 1 turn to the left of the heating radiator. We do the same with the right side.
It is imperative to ensure that the intersection gasket is placed only in the middle of the nipple. The radiator sections must fit snugly against the nipple. Now we insert the radiator wrench into the radiator, and use an adjustable wrench to screw the nipple into the radiator sections.
To make a high-quality expansion of heating radiators, you need to tighten the nipple three to four turns and move to the other side of the sections. We will tighten the sections one by one until they fit one another very tightly.
Now it's time to install special side plugs for cast iron radiators. Do not also forget about gaskets made of a special material - paronite. If there is rust on the surface on which the gasket is supposed to be installed, it must also be cleaned with sandpaper. And only now can you put the plug in. The plugs must be tightened tightly using a pipe wrench.
First stage of installation
Considering that radiators today are presented in a huge variety, the installation of heating batteries in a private house begins with its choice. There is no ideal heating system - each type of radiator has its own pros and cons, and you should choose the option whose disadvantages will allow the system to function as efficiently as possible.
Cast iron
Photo 1 Diagram of a cast iron battery
The main advantage that such radiators have is their durability and long service life; they can be used for up to 50 years. Also, this metal can withstand aggressive conditions, including coolant with various impurities, without damage.
Among the disadvantages of cast iron, the weight of the battery and the lack of aesthetics should be noted.
Aluminum
Photo 2 Aluminum radiators
Such batteries are distinguished by their light weight, external design, and high power ratings of approximately 190 W. They are clearly not suitable for apartments in high-rise buildings due to the low quality of the coolant, because aluminum quickly oxidizes due to constant exposure to dirty water, while for a private house such a radiator is the best option due to its high thermal conductivity and low inertia.
Bimetallic
Photo 3 Bimetallic batteries
This type of radiator is the most reliable. Among the main advantages are the following:
- resistance to sudden pressure changes in the system.
- high heat transfer.
- resistance to mechanical damage.
Steel
Photo 4 Steel radiator
These are new batteries for heating, which are still used quite rarely, they have not gained much popularity, but are still sometimes found. The heat dissipation area is high, the size and weight are small, maximum resistance to rust, provided they are always filled.
Which heating radiators to install in a private house can be decided based on the area of the building and its features.
Videos and useful tips
Having chosen a radiator, you should proceed to such a stage as installing heating radiators in a private house, the video of which can be watched below, and right now you can read useful tips.
The initial stage is calculating the battery power. To heat 1 cubic meter of a room in a modern house, built in compliance with building codes, you will need 20 W.
Calculate the volume of the house, multiply the figure by the figure described above, then divide the resulting figure by the power of the section. The resulting figure will be the number of sections.
Video 1 Installation of heating batteries (radiators) in a private house with your own hands
Installation tool
To do everything yourself, you should stock up on the following tools:
- building level;
- drill;
- screwdriver and tape measure;
- a wrench for tightening the pipes and a pencil;
- key for installing sections;
- bypass – when installing radiators in single-pipe heating;
- shut-off valves.
Installation instructions
The first thing you need to do is turn off the heating system, drain the water, even use the pump. Next, fix the radiator on the supports and, using a level, check how accurately this was done, after which you perform the following procedure:
- remove all plugs from the device.
- if you are using a single-pipe circuit, then you need to connect a bypass with a valve. Provided that the circuit is two-pipe, the connection is made only with the help of a drive, and a valve is also fixed to it.
- connect the structure to the system using threaded fittings, use special seals to seal the joints, ideally welding.
The rules for installing radiators provide for a process such as crimping, for which it is advisable to invite a professional technician who has the appropriate equipment.
During the installation process, remember that the distance from the radiator to various objects must be maintained as follows:
- from the wall - 5 centimeters or more.
- from the floor - at least 10 centimeters.
- from the bottom of the window sill to the top of the battery - 5-10 cm.
Can you see everyone?
Why are we talking about different ways to dismantle radiators?
How do they differ in connection methods?
- Fittings used. Traditionally, for the installation of Soviet-style cast iron radiators, a combination of a conduit (a pipe with a long thread) and a lock nut were used; now the batteries are more often connected with American ones - quick-dismount fittings with union nuts;
The photo shows the connection of an aluminum sectional radiator by an American woman.
Connection on the lines.
The location of the connections relative to the radiator. The connection can be one-way or two-way
This is important when installing on squeegees: one of the radiator plugs through passage will have a left-hand thread
A special case
- In many houses built in the 80s and 90s, convectors are used as heating devices. The convector is a coil made of a steel pipe of the same diameter as the riser, with fins that increase heat transfer. The typical method of connecting a convector and a steel line is a butt weld.
The heating device is connected to the riser by welded seams.
Maintenance of cast iron modifications
In old residential premises there are often cast iron batteries of the MS-140 type. Their assembly is also carried out using gasket seals and nipple nuts. It is quite difficult to disassemble old models, since during long-term use the sections on the joints become stuck due to rust. In such situations, the key slots are corroded by the coolant.
In addition, when dismantling sections of cast iron heating radiators, you should remember the impressive mass of the material used. One 12-cell battery will weigh at least 90 kilograms; it is very difficult to handle such a device alone. To perform the work you will need the following tools:
- special nipple key;
- a device for unscrewing plugs and fittings;
- small sledgehammer, chisel;
- blowtorch;
- brush with steel base;
- blocks of wood used to lay the radiator on the surface.
The key is a metal rod that has a round configuration and is flattened on one side.
The diameter of the device is 18-20 millimeters. The flattened part has a thickness of 6 mm, its dimensions are 28x40 mm. A ring is welded on the opposite side of the rod, intended for threading the lever. The length of the radiator key is equal to half the length of the 12-section radiator plus 300 millimeters. Date: September 25, 2022
Calculation of the required number of sections
Determination of the required power of heating devices is carried out in accordance with the recommendations of SP 60.13330.2010 (old SNiP 41-01-2003). The following are included in the calculation:
- characteristics of the room - area, ceiling height;
- the location of the room relative to the overall building volume of the house and the cardinal directions;
- parameters of external and internal air;
- degree of thermal insulation of walls, attic;
- type and number of windows installed;
- glazing area;
- features of heating systems - insertion diagram, degree of openness;
- power of one section depending on the type of radiator.
This is a rather complex technique using many coefficients, which in practice is replaced by simpler methods.
One of them is to determine the required heat transfer based on an approximate norm of 100 W per square meter of area.
Example:
- To heat a room of 30 sq.m. you need to spend 30x100=3000 W.
- If it is planned to install a bimetallic radiator with an interaxial size of 350 mm, the heat transfer of 1 section is determined from the technical data sheet or table - 136 W.
- To find the number of sections, the required power is divided by unit 3000/136=22.
According to this calculation, 22 sections will be required to heat the room with bimetallic radiators. A more accurate result can be obtained by using an online calculator. You need to enter your data in the fields and select the radiator model. The answer will be calculated in a few seconds.
In this example, the online program gave 3 different answers at different outside temperatures:
- if the average outside temperature in winter is -10°, 16 sections are required;
- at -20° - 25;
- at -30° - 34.
The conclusion suggests itself - the calculation must be carried out as carefully as possible, since the difference in the results is significant. If the excess radiators are compensated by thermostats, then if there is a shortage, you will need to use the boiler at maximum power. It is possible that the room will be cold even at high coolant temperatures.
