How a corner fireplace stove works - types, laying rules

General provisions and recommendations

To lay out a corner fireplace with your own hands conveniently and quickly, it is advisable to frequently check your actions with the order plan while working, and mark (number) the laid out rows with chalk. The outer wall with the firebox should not be bandaged; this may lead to deformation due to temperature differences.

Circular masonry

After laying out five rows, wipe the masonry with a wet rag or rag, removing any excess mortar that is squeezed out of the seams under the influence of the growing mass of the structure.

The inner surface of the firebox and chimney is not plastered! The slope of the rear wall is leveled by a steel screen that can be mounted into the masonry. The smoke collector vaults are laid out with gradual overlaps of bricks, about 5–6 cm for each subsequent row. The portal opening is covered with brick lintels laid in a circle. If provided, install a cast iron door.

During the production of work, the circle rests on the racks. After laying the castle brick, double (two-sided) masonry is carried out. The pipe is brought to the roof using the same solution that was used to lay out the base.

Methods for finishing fireplaces

If high-quality facing bricks were used when laying the external walls, then all that is required to improve the aesthetics of the structure is to fill the joints. To do this, they are rubbed down, and the outer surface is refined using a special tool - jointing. It is also necessary to sand the uneven bricks and coat the walls with a special compound. The simplicity of this method has a big disadvantage - over time, the surface of the fireplace darkens and loses its attractiveness.

A very simple way to improve the appearance of your fireplace is by plastering. Ready-made decorative compositions, which are presented in a wide range on the shelves of retail chains, are best suited for this. You can begin plastering work only after the walls of the fireplace have dried and shrink. If necessary, the portal can be painted with water-based paint, but this can only be done after the finishing layer has completely dried.

A fireplace trimmed with natural stone, as if taken from the era of knights and fair ladies

Currently, there are many options for covering a fireplace with materials of natural or artificial origin. Tiles will help make the stove bright and irresistible. They will completely transform the portal of the heating device, making it especially warm and homely. Finishing with marble slabs or stone, on the contrary, will create the effect of an expensive and presentable structure. As for facing the fireplace with ceramic tiles, you should choose only heat-resistant varieties - majolica, clinker, porcelain stoneware or terracotta. Of course, when laying facing materials, you should use only special, heat-resistant adhesives.

Chimney installation

Those who believe that the chimney is just a direct channel for the exit of flue gases should take a closer look at the diagram and order of the chimney, which experts recommend for equipping wood-burning stoves. Inside it is really a hollow rectangular pipe

As for the outer part, its configuration serves an important functional purpose

Design and arrangement of the chimney

The thickening at the intersection with the ceiling is called fluff. Thanks to several additional rows of bricks, it is possible to reduce the temperature of the flue gases so much that there is no need to install a heat-insulating layer. If you install a straight, thin riser, then the ceiling will have to be protected with several layers of asbestos or basalt slabs.

At the roof level, the chimney is expanded, resulting in a so-called otter. In addition to its aesthetic purpose, such widening also plays another, no less important role. When it rains, it is the otter that prevents precipitation from flowing down the outer surface of the riser, protecting the brick from destruction. As for protecting the smoke channel, for these purposes the top of the pipe is crowned with a metal cap.

Otherwise, when constructing fireplace chimneys, you must be guided by the same requirements as for other wood-burning stoves. The traction force, and therefore the performance of the fireplace, depends on the correct placement of the structure on the roof. You can familiarize yourself with the rules for installing a chimney by carefully studying the diagram below.

Chimney installation diagram relative to the ridge and roof of the building

Chimney and chimney

The chimney is a part of the stove, shaped like a cap, inside which there is a steel pipe (or ceramic chimney blocks), which turns into a smoke pipe. The back wall is made vertical, and the side walls are made tapering at an angle of 45-60 degrees. The internal cross-section is calculated according to the proportion: 0.1-0.15 of the portal area, and the height is made at least five meters from the fuel combustion surface. The walls are made thick enough to reduce heat loss.

A valve is installed at a height of about two meters. The frame for it is fixed with liquid mortar in the masonry.

The first point of installation of a chimney is installation above the smoke collector of the unit. Cement mortar is used to connect the openings of the pipe and the smoke collector. The brick lining is attached to the pipe by means of anchor joints inserted between the outer blocks of the pipe, which are embedded in the joints between the bricks. Internal surfaces must be free of gaps.

The pipe head is made at least 1 brick thick. To reduce the accumulation of condensate in the chimney duct and prevent fire of structures, install thermal insulation and thermal insulation.

Fireplace components:

• Chimney for fireplace.
• Support plate.
• Fireproof plate.
• The section where the pipe leads to the chimney.
• Firebox.
• To allow hot air to escape, install a ventilation hole with a grille.
• Decorative element and thermal insulation layer.
• Ventilation grille.
• A chamber with hot air, a ventilation grille, and the outside of the chamber is decorated with stone, marble and other materials.
• Facing.
• Movement of cold air.

A spark arrester and a deflector are installed on top of the pipe. The function of the spark arrester is fire safety. Structurally, this part is similar to a blank metal cone with wire mesh on all sides. The deflector is installed on the head in order to increase traction and protect the pipe from the wind. Typically the cross section of the deflector is circular.

Cladding of the fireplace and the protruding part of the chimney

If it was planned to leave the outer part of the fireplace brick, without additional cladding, then the masonry should be as neat as possible, and the mortar should not be brought to the front of the fireplace by 0.5 cm, so that it would be possible to expand the seams.

If the masonry requires additional decorative cladding, then artificial or natural stones, ceramic tiles, tiles and other materials are used. It is recommended to varnish the top of the stones to improve their decorative properties and facilitate maintenance.

The cheapest and simplest method of cladding, which is done after the masonry shrinks, is plaster. Using various spatulas, various decorative effects are created on plaster. There is a possibility of coloring the plaster.

Another popular way to cover a corner fireplace is to use plasterboard. It is cut and mounted on a special metal frame, strictly checking the corners and walls with a level.

Step-by-step instruction

In fact, laying a corner brick fireplace with your own hands is no different from conventional construction, with the exception of thin seams - the thinner they are, the better the fireplace will retain heat inside. To do this, the solution must be as homogeneous as possible and without lumps. The permissible thickness of stove seams is from 1 to 3 mm for the fuel compartment and up to 5 mm for the chimney and body. In this case, the seams must be filled completely.

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How to build a brick fireplace:

1. The easiest and fastest way to build a fireplace is during the construction of a house, when interior decoration has not yet begun. The first step is to take care of a stable foundation, the dimensions of which should be 5 cm wider than the base row of the structure on all sides. Dig a pit of the appropriate size with a depth of 60 cm. If the floor level is located much higher than the surface of the ground, you just need to carefully compact the soil under the future fireplace and make formwork from wood. Coat the inside of the formwork panels with bitumen mastic or attach roll waterproofing (ordinary roofing felt will do just fine). Sheet iron can also be used to make formwork.
2. Compact the bottom of the pit and pour a 10 cm thick layer of crushed stone or brick chips there, pour water on it and compact it thoroughly. The surface should be as smooth and horizontal as possible.
3. Install the formwork on the crushed stone “cushion”, then put large stones or broken bricks (rubble) inside. There will be gaps between the stones, so add a little more crushed stone to fill them.
4. Mix classic cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. First mix the dry ingredients, and then add water little by little, bringing the solution to the desired consistency (thick sour cream). Pour concrete into the formwork in a layer of 10 cm, level the surface and leave to dry for a day.
5. The next day, again place a layer of rubble mixed with crushed stone on the dried concrete and fill it with concrete. Thus, bring the foundation almost to the level of the finished floor (5 cm lower). Carefully level the last layer of concrete, cover with polyethylene to prevent it from cracking, and leave to dry for 5-7 days.
6. After the foundation has completely dried, dismantle the formwork.
7. Cover the foundation with 2 layers of roofing material and begin laying bricks in accordance with the chosen order.
8. Since bricks absorb moisture, they should be kept in water for 2-3 minutes before laying and applying mortar. If this is not done, they will take all the liquid from the clay mortar, and it will lose its strength and binding characteristics.
9. When laying the basement row, install the bricks on the ribs. For the remaining rows, the bricks are laid flat. When the height of the structure reaches 25-30 cm, you can begin to form the walls of the combustion compartment.
10. If the façade of the fireplace is not planned to be plastered or covered, when laying the front part, try not to bring the clay mortar to the very edge of the brick by about 5 mm - this will allow you to beautifully embroider the seams later. When starting to lay each row, check the horizontality with a building level, and the verticality with a square and a plumb line.
11. When you lay out the firebox and smoke chambers, smooth and level the mortar not with tools, but by hand. This way you can feel and, if necessary, remove large particles and lumps in a timely manner, making the seams thinner. When you have completed 5-6 rows, wipe the inner walls with a damp cloth to remove excess solution - then this will be quite difficult to do.
12. If you are bandaging the firebox masonry, the lining must be done separately without bandaging, so that temperature changes do not destroy the structure.
13. If you remember, the rear wall of the fuel compartment and smoke collector should be inclined. To do this, lay each subsequent row with a slight overlap on the bottom one (4-5 cm). To prevent soot from accumulating on such a “ladder”, it is recommended to cover the masonry with a steel screen 3-4 mm thick.
14. To make the ceiling of the portal, use a steel corner (you will need a fireplace lining) or a circle - a special formwork that allows you to create arched masonry. To do everything beautifully and correctly, first install the brick without mortar, evaluate the result, and only then lay it according to all the rules.
15. When you bring the chimney to the roof, change the clay mortar to a cement-sand mortar - it copes better with atmospheric loads.

The design of a corner brick fireplace, no matter how simple it may be, requires utmost attention and skills in working with materials. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to a professional or at least enlist his support and recommendations.

How to calculate the number of bricks

The amount of this material depends on the size of the Dutch oven. If there is a ready-made project, then, as a rule, the amount of building materials is indicated. Experienced furnace specialists also know how much material is required for a furnace of a given size. But if you plan to lay a Dutch oven with your own hands, there is a universal formula for counting the number of bricks. It should be noted that the quantity calculated here is also imprecise, conditional.

You should calculate the number of bricks required to lay out the bottom row, provided that they are laid solid. Then calculate how many rows you plan to lay out in height, taking into account that the height of one row is approximately 7 cm. Multiply these two numbers and subtract 1/3 from the result.

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Let's say the base of the stove measures 3 by 4 bricks. It turns out that there will be 24 pieces in the first continuous row. Then you need to calculate the height of the future furnace. If the height of the house inside from floor to ceiling is 2 m 40 cm, the cutting height must be subtracted from this number - approximately 30 cm. The result will be 2 m 10 cm. Taking into account the row height of 7 cm, the result will be 30 rows in height. Then you should subtract a third of this number. 30 divided by 3 equals 10. Subtract 10 from 30 to get 20 rows. Then you need to multiply 20 by 24. You get 480 pieces. It will take about 50 pieces to cut, in the end it turns out that for such a stove you will need 530 bricks.

The amount of material per pipe is calculated separately. 1 linear m of pipe contains approximately 14 rows. For example, one row of pipe consists of 6 bricks, 6 multiplied by 14, you get 84. This number of bricks contains 1 m of pipe. Let the length of the pipe be 4 m, then 84 is multiplied by 4, you get 336. The result is that you will need 336 pieces per pipe.

The formula is quite simple. Of course, the amount of material calculated is not exact. But at the same time, you can already estimate how many bricks will need to be purchased and how much it will cost.

The Dutch oven has a simple design, is light weight and fits perfectly into a small room. It does not require large financial costs. For your dacha, you can build a rocket stove out of brick.

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It heats up quickly and can heat a room a few hours after it is lit. However, this design also has disadvantages. Its efficiency is about 40%, so it is difficult to heat houses where people constantly live. If you don’t close the view after heating, the stove will quickly cool down; it has a small heat capacity, so it has to be fired up often. These properties make the Dutch oven the most suitable, economical option for heating a summer house, garden house and other premises where people do not live permanently.

DIY fireplace installation ↑

Construction of a fireplace is a multi-stage process, consisting of several stages, each of which requires utmost attention and responsibility.

If we talk about the correct technology for constructing stoves, it would not be amiss to note that the foundation for the fireplace should be made separately from the foundation of the main building. First, a pit is prepared, the dimensions of which are 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the future fireplace. The depth of the pit is 50-70 cm. The bottom is covered with a layer of crushed stone, after which the formwork is built.

Rubble stones are placed in the formwork, which are then filled with 3:1 cement mortar (sand:cement). The foundation is leveled, covered with plastic wrap and left to shrink for a week.

Waterproofing material must be laid in 2 layers on the foundation. Then the base is laid, and the bricks of the base row are placed on edge, while all the rest are placed flat. The brick is soaked in water for several minutes before use. This is necessary to achieve strong contact with the solution.

The laying of a brick fireplace is carried out according to a clearly drawn up scheme

If the masonry turns out to be inexpressive or brick defects are discovered, the stove can be plastered or any other type of cladding can be used, which will help hide the errors without expensive rework.

The method of laying the floor is of great importance for creating a cohesive composition. The firebox ceiling can become an original decoration. You can lay out the bricks in even vertical or horizontal rows, or you can create an arch effect. Gems, wood, and marble can serve well as additional decorative elements.

Laying a fireplace with your own hands

Wedge lintels are made of bricks laid on edge and aligned with the formwork. As a result, wedge-shaped seams are formed, the thickness of which should reach 3 mm, on top - 25 mm. Arched and radial lintels are laid on formwork that corresponds in shape to the given outlines. The laying of the lintel must be completed with a central brick, placed strictly in the middle and vertically, relative to the overall dimensions of the furnace.

A freshly laid fireplace is the result of work

Before starting laying, it is important to carefully study the diagram and think over the decor. It is difficult and often impossible to make adjustments to the completed order, because

changing the position of even one brick leads to a change in all rows.

A well-drafted plan that fully reflects the stages of work, thoughtful decor, high-quality materials and your desire - this is all that is needed to create an interesting fireplace that will become a worthy interior decoration, bringing warmth and comfort.

Choosing a location method

The arrangement of the fireplace plays a key role in the assembly and successful operation of the heating device. However, what is equally important is what type of location the stove will have in the interior.

Main placement methods:

1. Wall-mounted fireplaces are massive. To assemble such a structure you will need a fairly large amount of materials and cladding. This option is convenient to place, has a good viewing angle, and several people can sit near it at once. The advantages also include high efficiency and good, productive operation. The portal is symmetrical; the facade part is most often assembled in a U-shaped shape. A fireplace, for which both standard and refractory bricks are used, in a wall location has a chimney that is covered with bricks up to the ceiling;
2. If the room chosen for installation does not have a large area, we recommend installing a corner fireplace in it. This option, with a fairly good viewing angle, is small in size. The arrangement of a corner type oven does not require a large amount of brick. In this case, only the facade part will need to be clad, since the role of the sidewalls is played directly by the walls or partitions of the room themselves. Despite its small size, the corner hearth has a fairly high power and is suitable for heating rooms with an area of ​​15-35 square meters;
3. The design of an island-type furnace is difficult to construct. To build such a structure will require a lot of time, large investments and experience. An island fireplace is installed in the center of the room and is not adjacent to walls or other ceilings. The portal can be equipped with small walls and a firewood rack. To remove smoke and combustion products from the room, the stove is supplemented with a suspended exhaust system or, in other words, a chimney. The base usually has a classic square or rectangular shape (profile). Structures of round, triangular, multifaceted shapes are more difficult to construct. Particularly popular are designs consisting of several levels. For additional functionality, you can equip the portal with a tabletop or mantelpiece.

The fireplace, the dimensions of which are selected individually, can be installed not only in the house, but also outside, in a gazebo. Such outdoor and garden barbecues and barbecues can be located either completely separately or built into gazebos and verandas. The advantages of such structures include the ability to make them quite large and bulky. This way you can add many different elements to the grill.

Due to their large dimensions, outdoor and garden stoves are heavy and require the construction of a solid concrete foundation. This will prevent the structure from sinking underground or losing its stability over time.

A barbecue or barbecue oven project also requires an individual approach, careful selection of placement and functionality. If you plan to combine an outdoor fireplace with a gazebo or veranda, you should not use only brick for construction, as it is very expensive. The materials most often chosen for gazebos are: plastic, metal profiles, wood, fire-resistant plastic. The stove itself, columns, various partitions, small walls, and the area near the combustion compartment are assembled from bricks.

Finishing work

To be honest, I wouldn’t like to recommend anything in this section. Cladding a fireplace is a serious and difficult matter. Here you will need the services of a designer who will tie both the design of the fireplace and the design of the room into a single whole. After all, everything should be in harmony.

We just want to recommend materials that can be used for finishing work.

1. If the brick from which you built the fireplace turns out to be without flaws, then we can assume that the finishing has already been done. True, during the construction process you will have to strictly adhere to a certain thinness of the masonry layer. You just need to grout the joints using a white solution. It's actually beautiful. By the way, here is a photo of a brick fireplace of this type.

Brick fireplace

Ceramic tile. Currently, this type of cladding has gained great popularity. Probably the fact is that ceramic manufacturers currently offer such a huge range that you can assemble heating devices and veneer them, knowing that there will never be the same brick fireplace. But you will have to take this point into account - not every ceramic tile can be suitable for finishing. First of all, it must be heat resistant. And this category includes: majolica, terracotta, clinker, tiles and porcelain stoneware. Stone. Whatever you say, the natural beauty of the stone is incomparable. It's not only beautiful, it's reliable, it's durable, it's powerful. In addition, stone will never go out of fashion, therefore, by lining the fireplace with it, you can change the interior of the room more than once. A stone fireplace will still fit in perfectly. True, this is the most expensive finish. And it doesn’t matter whether you use sawn wood or cobblestones. Although the market also offers a budget option - artificial stone. It is not as durable as natural, but in appearance it is not inferior to the latter.

Unusual finish

Choice of metal options

An increasing number of consumers prefer the use of ready-made metal fireplaces and stoves, including corner ones. There is a reason for this choice, because metal stoves have some distinctive qualities.

• These are multifunctional devices that are equipped with a hob and, in some cases, an oven.
• Metal stoves have a relatively small mass, so there is no need to build a foundation. All you need is a solid foundation.
• The efficiency of the furnace is high due to the physical properties of the metal used.
• Simple installation eliminates the need for the consumer to acquire stove making skills or spend money on a professional.

Modern interior with heating equipment

Among the huge number of models presented by different manufacturing countries, it is quite difficult to understand. Many buyers are forced to hope for luck. Each company provides a technical passport for its device, but not everyone is able to use such information. Therefore, all that remains is to focus on the opinions of other users and the rating, which is based on reviews.

The leading positions, according to various sources, are occupied by Russian companies that provide reliable and inexpensive equipment. Let's list the most popular ones.

• stove-fireplace “Bavaria” (EcoKamin, Russia);
• stove-fireplace “Pechora” (Meta-Bel, Russia-Belarus);
• stove-fireplace “Yenisei” (Meta, Russia);
• stove-fireplace “Neva” (Meta, Russia);
• stove-fireplace “Amur” (Meta, Russia);
• MBS Corner (MBS, Serbia).

All of the listed models have their own characteristics in external design or operating principle, however, for each room, a wide range of models from the companies presented will allow you to choose the best option.

How to make a foundation for a corner fireplace?

Scheme of the foundation for the fireplace.

The base of the structure should not be connected to the foundation of a private house. There are 2 ways to build such a foundation.

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The process of making a foundation in a house with a basement:

1. First, you need to mark the depth of the structure being manufactured on the wall.
2. At the mark location, you need to disassemble the flooring boards, and then move the marks below using a plumb line.
3. The logs should not be dismantled until the base has been laid from the ground floor under the fireplace.
4. Using a plumb line, you need to mark the exact location of the structure on the floor of the basement.
5. The ground floor floor is broken down to the foundation.
6. The soil is excavated to the base of the building. The dug hole should be 20 cm larger than the fireplace on each side.
7. The base of the pit is carefully compacted.
8. The foundation of the fireplace is being built. Between the base of the house and the foundation of the stove, you need to leave a gap of about 5 cm, which should then be filled with sand. The foundation is erected to the base of the first floor.
9. Two rows before the base of the stove, a cement layer should be applied and several layers of roofing material should be laid on it to protect the structure from the dampness of the basement.
10. Next, you will need to saw the logs that will be installed on the base of the fireplace.
11. 1 more row of bricks is laid out.

If the building does not have a basement, then the foundation is made as follows:

Fireplace chimney diagram.

1. You will need to dig a pit 15 cm larger than the foundation. If there is no underground water under the house, then you can immediately begin to make the foundation. If the walls crumble under the influence of groundwater, they will need to be strengthened.
2. Next, the base is made. On the first floor you need to pour crushed stone into the hole and compact it thoroughly. Construction waste can be used instead of crushed stone.
3. The formwork is being made.
4. To isolate the base from moisture, the internal walls should be lined with roofing felt or coated with resin.

Furnace foundation

Since brick stoves have a large mass, for their correct and safe placement in the house, it is necessary to create a separate foundation. In order to build the foundation yourself, we suggest using the following instructions:

1. The foundation should be wider than the fireplace by 80 centimeters or more on all sides. Next, a hole is dug (0.5-0.7 meters) and simple sand is poured onto the bottom, the layer of which is 9-15 centimeters, after which compaction is carried out;
2. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 9-13 centimeters, and the reinforcing mesh is laid;
3. The walls are sealed and insulated with asbestos sheets;
4. The outer part of the foundation is equipped with formwork. For this, one sheet of metal is used, the thickness of which is several millimeters. In this case, bricks act as supports;

1. Afterwards, a solution is prepared in a ratio of three to one in the ratio of cement to sand. The layer of solution can vary from 10 to 15 centimeters;
2. After the solution has dried, a second layer is applied and after partial drying, the foundation must be covered with polyethylene;
3. It usually takes 10 to 20 days for the structure to harden. After which the surface is additionally covered with several sheets of roofing material or any other insulation.

Tips for preparing materials

In order for the subsequently erected structure to have high strength, safety and properly perform its function, we recommend not skipping this additional stage of preparing building materials:

If the renovation and construction of the house has already been completely completed, pay special attention to the location of the installation. During work and construction, you should not be hampered by various beams, ceilings and partitions; Before starting installation and assembly, you need to remove all furniture from the room, since otherwise a large amount of dust, dirt and construction debris will settle on it;

• The brick is pre-soaked in running water for several days, and the construction of the furnace can begin only after several weeks after the construction of the foundation;
• Before using mortar to connect bricks, we recommend dry laying and joining each row one by one. Brick numbering is allowed.

masonry brick corner fireplace

A corner fireplace requires a separate foundation and a fireproof separation between the solid wood and the wooden surfaces. The separation is most often made from sheet metal or brickwork in a quarter of a brick.

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It is advisable to lay the fireplace according to the indicated drawings, observing the bandaging of the seams; there is no need to rush at all, the faster you lay the higher the chance that the masonry on fresh clay mortar will “float”. Remember the difference in masonry between a Russian stove built by a drunk neighbor and a fireplace for 80 thousand rubles. This is respect for horizontal, vertical and diagonal. If you do not have a trained hand and eye, check each brick with a level and keep the thickness of the seam to 4-6 mm around the entire perimeter. If you are not sure about something or have forgotten, you need to study the theoretical material of stoves and fireplaces.

Order of masonry

The order, façade and section are shown on separate pages. In order to arrange the corner fireplace, you will need to prepare a sheet of A4 paper in a box and a pencil.

This means using not only whole bricks, but also three-fours and halves. Accordingly, you will need to accept conventional images.

The base row of the fireplace is best made of brick, which will be placed on its edge - it will be more original, although this is not at all necessary. Next, the bricks (starting from the second row) are laid flat. The bottom of the stove firebox is often made 25-30 cm above the floor, which can be more comfortable.

Order of the corner fireplace:

From the sixth to the ninth rows, the laying of the firebox continues. Keep in mind that ceramic and fireclay bricks cannot be tied. Ideally, you should even leave a small gap between them so that the entire masonry is not damaged during operation of the fireplace due to the large temperature difference between the outside and inside of the fireplace.

1. The first, second and third rows must be filled with bricks.
2. The fourth row will be the hearth of the fireplace.
3. In the fifth row, an ash pit is laid out. The support for the grate is formed using three steel strips (they are pressed against the masonry of the sixth row).
4. A grate is placed in the sixth row.
5. The bottom frame of the portal is placed in the seventh row.
6. Rows from eight to thirteen will form the walls of the portal; the masonry is carried out with bandaging of the seams.
7. In the eleventh row you need to start, and in the rest - continue to lay out the inclined mirror at the back wall.
8. In the fourteenth and fifteenth rows it will be necessary to block the portal, continue laying and laying the mirror.
9. In the sixteenth row the mirror laying ends. It is necessary to arrange the corner fireplace of the upper part of the tooth. On the chimney side, you will need to coat the tooth with a clay solution in order to provide protection against burnout.
10. Next come the seventeenth to nineteenth rows, in which the façade is laid. The bricks need to be cut as shown in the section, towards the heil.
11. The twentieth, twenty-first and twenty-second rows form a chimney 14x27 cm. The damper is installed in the 22nd row.
12. The twenty-third row is next. The order shows that the smoke hole will be in the shape of a dovetail.
13. In the twenty-fourth and all subsequent rows the chimney laying ends.

Elements required for making a corner fireplace

Only fireproof bricks should be used. Such a material can withstand temperatures of more than 1000°C, it will not deform when heated and cooled and can retain heat well. The material will need to be soaked in water to remove air from it. The brick can be used when bubbles stop coming out of it.

In order to make masonry mortar, you can use blue or red clay. For high-quality masonry of the fireplace, you need to add sand exclusively with small grains, cleaned of various contaminants. To carry out such cleaning, you should perform “elutriation”. The sand will need to be watered twice and then left to stand. The steps must be repeated until the water becomes clear.

Tools for laying a fireplace.

The base for the structure and the laying of the pipe are made of baked bricks, which are fixed with a mixture of concrete. To prepare a concrete mixture, you need to use M300 or M400 cement and clean sand with large grains. In this case, crushed stone can also be used. The ratio of sand and cement should be 3:1.

The fireplace is built using a clay mixture that is heat resistant.

First of all, you need to stir the clay in water until it reaches the consistency of thick sour cream. The clay should be left for several days. It needs to be mixed thoroughly every day. Next, the required amount of sand is added to the length. The main indicator of readiness is that the solution does not crumble and does not stick to your hands.

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In the process of laying the first 3 rows of bricks, you will need to add a small amount of cement to the clay solution (3 parts cement to 10 parts mortar).

Elements you will need to build a brick fireplace with your own hands:

1. Fire brick.
2. Clay.
3. Sand.
4. Water.
5. Cement grade M300 or M400.
6. Crushed stone.
7. Plumb.
8. Building level.
9. Trowel or trowel.
10. Order.
11. Shovel.
12. Tamping.
13. Ruberoid.
14. Resin.
15. Pencil.

For corner fireplace

As already mentioned, the order is a detailed diagram that indicates the position of each brick. In addition, ordering will greatly simplify your task and help you calculate the required number of bricks that you will need when building a stove or fireplace; moreover, you will be able to avoid unnecessary waste.

The arrangement of a corner fireplace is practically no different from the simple or classic version; you just need to take into account a couple of points. One of these important points is that the foundation should rise 10 centimeters above the floor. You can follow this procedure by following the instructions.

At the first stage, it is recommended to lay the foundation using clay mortar. Continue doing this until the fourth position (row), where you need to divide the fireplace into two blocks, covered by a stove.

Second phase. The first block should be designed as a niche for logs, and the second block as a front façade. At the next stage, it is recommended to use refractory bricks, and here you should form the base for the stove.

At the fourth stage, after covering the fireplace itself with a slab of solid metal, for example, steel, the construction of the fireplace should take place according to a pre-prepared scheme up to the twelfth row. In order for the entire heating system to work efficiently and without any failures, it is also better to use fire-resistant bricks for interior wall decoration.

At the next stage, it is necessary to continue laying, as at the beginning, according to a pre-prepared pattern until the twenty-seventh row. If you want to add extra rigidity, you can install iron corners between the bricks. They can be made by hand.

And finally, at the sixth stage, it is necessary to make valves on top of the building. The corner masonry of the fireplace differs in many ways from the classical one, but is not at all impossible.

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It’s easy to build such a stove with your own hands

The whole process can be divided into several stages:

• laying the first row, the evenness and accuracy of which will determine the accuracy of the entire masonry as a whole;
• installation of the second row with a niche for the ash pan;
• laying the combustion zone using fireclay material;
• creating a pipe.

Corner stove designs are perfect for any layout. Thanks to its fairly compact size, such a stove can be placed not only in the living room, but also in a small bedroom. Depending on the interior design and room parameters, you can choose a symmetrical or asymmetrical model. The corner location makes it easier to view the stove, making it a decoration and highlight of any interior. This type of heating structure will be an excellent option for a private home or cottage.

Design features

The main elements of a corner fireplace are the fuel chamber and the chimney. The correct ratio of the sizes of these elements determines how efficient and productive the heating device will be. The base of the structure is called a fireplace table, which is located at floor level and rests directly on the foundation. A pre-furnace area is set up in front of the fireplace. It is laid out with refractory bricks and covered with ceramic tiles or metal sheets. According to fire safety standards, the platform must protrude beyond the portal by at least 30 centimeters on each side.

Construction of a corner fireplace - drawing

Above the fireplace table there is a place under which the firewood is stacked. The canonical design does not involve the installation of a grate, but it is often installed to increase the performance of the heating device. In addition, in furnaces with a closed firebox, bottom airflow allows you to regulate the intensity of the flame. Thanks to this, it is possible to extend the burning time of one fuel fill, and therefore increase the efficiency of the structure.

The firebox, like the firebox, is lined with fireproof materials—the temperature in this area often exceeds 1000 °C. Often, to enhance the heat-emitting ability, the back wall is lined with a stainless steel sheet or cast iron plate. To further enhance the heat transfer of the fireplace, the back of the firebox is tilted forward. This allows the thermal energy to be directed towards the floor.

A smoke collector (hailo) is installed above the firebox - a chamber in the form of a truncated pyramid with a small threshold in the front part. This barrier prevents cold air from mixing with combustion products and serves as an additional barrier to prevent smoke from entering the room.

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On the back wall of the smoke collector there is a smoke (fireplace) tooth - a protrusion necessary for the formation of the so-called gas threshold. Thanks to it, it is possible to reduce the flow rate of burning gases and force them to remain in the combustion zone longer. The chimney tooth traps soot in the chimney, preventing it from falling into the combustion chamber. For this reason, a door for cleaning the chimney is often installed next to the brick ledge.

At the point of transition from the hayle to the chimney, a valve is installed, which regulates the draft. It also blocks the path of warm air from the room after the firewood has completely burned out.

The design of the pipe for removing combustion products is no different from the chimneys of other wood-burning stoves. To ensure good traction, the pipe is raised above the roof ridge, but not less than 5 meters from the hearth (grid).

Technology for constructing a stove-fireplace for a summer residence

When a corner fireplace stove is built - a stove designed by V. Grigoriev, it has two fireboxes - a stove and a fireplace, which are located in different planes. The first of them is located on one of the side surfaces of the unit and faces towards the kitchen compartment or adjacent room, and the second - towards the center of the room.

This structural device allows you to observe the fire in the stove from different points in the surrounding space, while the cooking surface is invisible. You can use each firebox separately, or both at the same time. Flue gases are discharged from them through a single chimney.

The smoke exhaust channels are connected at the top of the unit, and valves are used to block them, so that when using one of the fireboxes, smoke and the phenomenon of draft overturning are prevented. The dimensions of the structure are 127x89 centimeters.

The following materials and furnace elements will be required:

• red and fireclay brick;
• steel sheets, angle and strip;
• sand and clay;
• doors – blower, combustion and cleaning;
• valves – stove and fireplace;
• single burner stove;
• oven cabinet.

Laying a brick fireplace: where to start? ↑

The most common type of material for building a fireplace is brick. Fireplaces made of brick fit organically into any interior. The arrangement process, although it seems very complicated, with proper organization of the progress of work, is quite feasible with your own hands.

To simplify the task and coordinate the procedure, it is necessary to develop a laying scheme.

A correctly drawn up masonry scheme is half the success, because... it reflects all stages of work, which helps to avoid irreparable mistakes. The masonry diagram should reflect the order of the fireplace, step by step, sequentially. You can develop such a drawing (if you have a strong desire and relevant knowledge) yourself, or you can use ready-made samples, which, by the way, are abundant on the Internet.

The masonry diagram clearly reflects the progress of work

Here are a few more interesting options:

Fireplace arrangement - option 2

English fireplace arrangement - option 3

The masonry of stoves and fireplaces is most often made of solid clay bricks. However, it is also possible to use other heat-resistant materials, for example, refractory brick or stone. For the front surface, you should choose bricks of the highest quality, absolutely identical in size and color, with right angles and a smooth edge.

The manufacture of stoves and fireplaces requires a special solution. The mortar for laying a fireplace consists of cement, clay and sand. The cement content should be small and not exceed the required ratio: 1 part cement to 8 parts sand. First, dry sand and cement are mixed, and then clay is added. Complete homogeneity of the composition is necessary; the mixture should have a dough-like consistency, without lumps.

Long burn function

Such long-burning corner stoves are distinguished by the fact that the raw materials loaded inside will not burn, but will slowly smolder, due to which a minimum of ash remains and much less firewood is needed.

The advantages include the following characteristics.

1. Heat transfer occurs within 6 hours.
2. If you combine the design with water heating, you can heat the house in winter much faster.
3. Extensive selection. Stoves are made on the basis of: cast iron, brick, a combination of cast iron and brick. Let's assume an independent production option.
4. Simple configuration. The heating device consists of: a blower, a combustion chamber, two smoke channels, one of which must have a plug.
5. Suitable fuels include: firewood, coal, pellet briquettes.

Dimensions to follow

The size of a corner brick fireplace is determined based on the heated area and its volume. In the example given in this article, we are talking about the area of ​​the fireplace opening of 0.2–0.3 square meters. meters. You need to decide on the width and height of the fireplace combustion opening (firebox portal). For a small fireplace, the height to width ratio is 2:3. Thus, for our fireplace the portal will have dimensions of 56x40 cm.

The depth and height of the portal should have a proportion of 1:2–2:3

It is important to observe the dimension, since a larger depth will reduce heat transfer, and a smaller depth will provoke smoke. In the described case, the depth will be about 24–30 cm

So, we figured out the sizes. The dimensions of the chimney opening for the chimney are selected in accordance with the area of ​​the opening of the fireplace part and should be from eight to fifteen times smaller than it. If the fireplace pipe is in the form of a rectangle, then in our case it will be 14x14 cm. If the fireplace pipe has a round cross-section, then its diameter should be 1-12 cm. The height of the pipe will be 3.5-4 m.

In order to increase the heat transfer properties of the fireplace, the back wall of its firebox is made with a forward slope, from a third of its height and beyond. A smoke collector is placed at the top of the firebox. Between these elements there is a cornice called a pass. The cornice prevents sparks, soot and smoke from being carried into the room.

When laying a brick fireplace, all its dimensions must correspond to the brickwork module. The dimension of the brick is 6.5 × 12 × 25 cm, the dimension of the masonry seam is approximately 0.5 cm. The firebox has the same dimensions as shown in the diagram of the corner fireplace in the figure below. (see Corner fireplace - dimensions)

Diagram of a corner fireplace. Firebox dimensions

The cross-section of the fireplace at the firebox level in plan determines the other dimensions. After we calculate them, we make layer-by-layer drawings of the order (masonry).

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Popular wood-burning stoves

The following models of corner units are in demand among dacha owners:

1. "Bavaria" . For the manufacture of the device, 6 mm steel is used, and the inside is lined with fireclay bricks. Due to the fact that such a long-burning corner stove for a summer cottage has a power of 6 kW, it is capable of heating a building with an area of ​​60 square meters. The side walls of the device are lined with ceramics. The continuous burning mode reaches 3 – 5 hours. The firebox door with fire-resistant glass is equipped with a thermally insulated handle.
2. "Cupid" . The stove has panoramic glass equipped with a blowing system, which does not collect soot and soot. At the top there is a hob. The 9 kW unit is made of heat-resistant steel and uses a lining. It is capable of heating about 60-80 “squares” of area. Thanks to the ceramic panels with which the device is lined, it has improved heat transfer.
3. "Neva" . A power of 6 kW allows you to provide heat to 50-60 square meters of space. The heating surfaces of this corner stove for a summer residence are covered with heat-resistant paint, so they retain their original appearance for a long time and are not subject to corrosion.
4. "Teplodar" . The corner model with a power of 12 kW is installed in houses measuring up to 80 square meters. Its body is made of stainless steel and is resistant to burnout. The unit is equipped with a hob on top, and a firewood rack is located below.

All of the above-described samples of corner stoves for a wood-burning home can be installed on a finished floor covered with non-combustible building materials, for example, porcelain stoneware or sheets of metal. These units can be placed on any floor of the building.

Tips before installation

Regardless of the shape of the corner fireplace, it is recommended to include its presence in the house design. The work is classified as dirty, as there will be a lot of dust and debris. It is also necessary to solve such problems as dismantling the existing floor surface and attaching it to the rafters and beams.

Only after the reinforced foundation has hardened will it be possible to begin laying – this will take 3-4 weeks. Each row performs a specific role, so its installation is handled judiciously and with maximum responsibility.

When building a corner fireplace in a wooden house, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with non-combustible insulation. The gap between the back wall and the wall itself should be at least 1.5-2 cm

to prevent fire. By increasing the space to 4-5 mm, you can not resort to thermal insulation, but it is not recommended to neglect it.