Do-it-yourself Russian stove with and without a stove bench: structure, masonry, arrangement

What tools are needed?

To build a heat source at home, you need to prepare a basic set of tools:

hammer-pick;
Master OK;
rule;
grinder, cutting wheels for stone, metal;
measuring instruments - building level, ruler, square, plumb line;
carpentry tools to assemble the foundation formwork;
wooden arrangement;
several containers and devices for mixing the solution and breaking up the clay.

For construction you will need bricks and a sand-clay mixture for mortar. The amount of material should be based on the scale of the work. You will also need stove fittings - a blower, combustion and cleaning doors, grates, a smoke damper, a hob.

List of materials

Brickwork is a classic option for a furnace, as the material heats up evenly and slowly.

single red brick M-200 – 1600 pcs;
fireclay brick Ш-8 – 250 pcs;
wedge-shaped fireclay brick Ш-44 – 100 pcs;
smoke valve 26x26 centimeters – 2 pcs;
smoke valve 13x26 centimeters – 3 pcs;
damper (dimensions are determined by location) – 1 piece;
two-burner hob (dimensions are determined as you go) – 1 piece;
grate 20x28 centimeters – 5 pcs;
combustion door 21x25 centimeters – 1 piece;
blower door 14x25 centimeters – 1 piece;
cleaning door 7x13 centimeters – 2 pcs;
steel corner 60x60x5 millimeters - 1.5 m;
steel strip 50x5 millimeters - 20 m;
fireclay clay – 100 kg;
sand, ordinary clay - the amount is determined according to the need for the material.

Foundation

The stove has impressive dimensions and weighs a lot, so it needs reliable support.

The work algorithm is as follows:

Prepare the pit. Calculate the dimensions based on the stove base. On each side you need a margin of 15 cm. Go deep by 50-70 cm.
Pour sand, pour water, compact it so that the thickness of the waterproofing becomes 15-20 cm. Pour more sand, pour water and level it.
Lay out the roofing material in 2 layers.
Install the formwork and cover it with film.
Mix cement, sand and crushed stone 1:3:5. Use water to get a semi-liquid mixture.
Pour cement mixed with gravel into the formwork, 20 cm high. Pierce this layer several times to let the air out, compact it.
While the solution has not hardened, install the reinforcement. Height above concrete 5-7 cm.
Fill another layer of 10-15 cm, when it sets, lay the reinforcing mesh.
Fill the entire formwork with mortar and level it.
Lay roofing felt in 1 layer.

If you are planning a small stove, then a guard base is allowed. Install it on the floor beams. Such a base is a frame made of timber or logs with 2 crowns. To strengthen the beams and stabilize the furnace, intermediate piles are driven into the center. Rubble is poured into the free space, with felt soaked in liquid clay on top. This base can support construction up to 700 kg. If the weight is greater, then a slab foundation is needed.

Materials

Brick

The masonry of the Russian stove is made from.
The brick must be well fired and of the highest quality - dense, smooth. A burnt brick (with a dark interior if broken) is absolutely unusable. Hollow brick is also not suitable: heat will not spread well throughout the body of the stove, its interior will overheat and the whole stove will soon begin to fall apart. You need to select the bricks for the hearth especially carefully: they must be even, smooth, and exactly the same height. In the old days, stove makers selected hearth bricks from purchased lots and stored them separately. Nowadays, the underside can be ironed after laying with a grinder with a bowl-shaped circle. In theory, this will not make the oven worse, but there is no experimental data.

The lining of the stove and the top row of the stove bench can be made of face bricks and lime mortar. Then the floors will never fail, and finishing the stove will not cause difficulties - masonry on clay with widened seams (see

below) although heat-resistant, it is not very strong and smooth, and the plaster and tiles do not hold up well on it

Solution

Not quite normal for a Russian stove; What is important here is the combination of heat resistance, high heat capacity and TKR equal to brick. The composition of the solution is as follows:

Carefully sifted the fattest clay you can find - 3 parts by volume.
Sifted and calcined river sand – 3-5 parts by volume.
Pure water – 1 part by volume.

The solution should also be very fatty - thick, viscous. His condition is checked with two boards; A ball of fresh solution the size of a tennis ball is squeezed between them. A thin solution will crack immediately; average at about 1/3 compression, and good at half compression. A solution that is too soft and fluid is also not suitable; sand must be added to it, but not more than 2:1 relative to clay.

Good clay for laying stoves was once a serious problem. Now the structure of the Russian stove is being simplified: ready-made dry mixtures for laying stoves and, separately, fatty clay are on sale.

When drying, the greasy solution often cracks. In this case, the cracks are covered with a medium or thin clay mortar, but in no case with lime, gypsum or cement.

Advantages and disadvantages of the oven

Among the positive qualities of the heating device, the following is noted:

Cheap design. To build the unit, you will need a minimum of materials: red brick, clay and sand.
Economical. The efficiency of the simplest device exceeds 60%, and the efficiency of a more complex design is more than 80%.
Works equally well on various types of solid fuel.
Functionality (cooking, heating, warm sleeping place).
The long operating time of the stove allows it to be heated once a day.
Has therapeutic properties. Food is cooked in it without direct contact with fire and superheated gases. At the same time, the optimal temperature for cooking is maintained. Thanks to these features, carcinogens and toxins are not formed in food. As for relaxing on a bed, six hours of sleep is enough to feel alert and alert in the morning.
Safety of use. The flame burns deep in the furnace. Sparks can only appear in severe frost.
Durability. Service life exceeds 30 years.
The interior of the room with the Russian stove is original, unlike any other.

Disadvantages of a heating unit include the following:

Possibility of using only solid fuel, which burns slowly. Something that burns quickly requires a lot of air, which can lead to a fire hazard.
The need for fuel procurement.
Low heat transfer.
Not suitable for apartment buildings due to poor smoke circulation. If there is only one channel, combustion products will be removed from the furnace that is heated hotter than the others, while other units will begin to smoke.
It will take a day to completely heat the device when cold weather sets in.
The slightest flaws made during the construction of the unit can manifest themselves during operation.
Takes up a lot of space in the house.
The need to get rid of waste.
The air below does not warm up. However, today it is possible to create equipment with bottom heating.

Evolution

The development of the Russian stove followed four intertwining branches: bottom heating, stove, economy, compactness. A huge contribution to it was made by I. S. Podgorodnikov, who developed the “Economka” and “Teplushka” series of stoves, which are still widespread today. The diagram of Podgorodnikov’s “Teplushka” is shown in the figure. It was improved by I.V. Kuznetsov; – in Fig. lower left.

The bottom line is that the firebox and cooking chamber are separated, and the oven is sealed. The flue gases are lowered through a hole into the furnace (on which a second low bench is installed, convenient for the old and young, and the firebox works in the most natural way as a stove. The accumulation of soot in the furnace is eliminated thanks to careful design calculations. How much work did this cost in the age of adding machines and slide rules? , it’s better for us not to guess.

However, such a stove took up a lot of space and acquired an increased fire hazard: the fire burned close to the mouth of the firebox. Further improvements until the 90s were of little use - the oven became too complicated. The following picture shows a cross-section of a compact housekeeper from the 70s - 80s. Its efficiency is above 80%, but not every stove maker will be able to put together such a labyrinth, and even a heating engineer with a diploma, much less an ordinary housewife, will not be able to immediately figure out the purpose and procedure for using all these doors and dampers. In addition, there are nooks and crannies that are inaccessible for inspection and cleaning.

With the development of computer modeling, the Russian stove took the path of qualitative improvement: all creative abilities could be turned into ingenuity and ingenuity. The following picture (right) shows a successful modern Russian stove. The “highlight” of the design is that instead of backfilling under the bakery (where, as it turned out, it still does not work as intended), they installed a winter firebox. Increasing the height of the bedding made it possible to bring the volume of bedding under the furnace to optimal.

Such a stove has only one drawback: to switch between winter and summer, you need to move not one, but two dampers, and in addition, install/remove a heavy plate that covers the mouth of the winter firebox. If you do come up with something with this stove, then such a stove can already be automated for the winter: the winter firebox can run on gas.

Russian stove with stove and heating shield

When building a simple chimney, most of the heat generated by the stove is wasted. Hot gases and smoke go directly into the street, while they could be used to heat the house. If a stove is installed, the situation improves, since part of the heat is spent on heating it and remains in the room.

To increase heating efficiency, heating panels are built. By design, it is a brick wall located above the crucible and hob.

Its peculiarity is the channels laid inside for the exit of smoke. Due to their length, hot gases on the way to the chimney transfer most of their heat to the walls of the shield and continue to warm the air in the house for a long time.

Important! The shield channels must be equipped with dampers and provide for direct smoke exit to the outside. This is of great importance in the summer, when additional heating of the house is not required and creates uncomfortable conditions when using the stove for cooking.

Dimensions of the building

There are three design models in total: small, medium, large. The final size of the structure directly depends on how many additional functions will be performed. In addition to heating the home, the stove carries out other activities, for example, when installing a hob, it becomes a cooking device, and the presence of a bed provides a free sleeping place.

Also important in drawing up a project for a future building is what parameters the stove will have for cooking, how many people the bed can accommodate, and whether there will be ledges for drying shoes. If a water tank is installed for subsequent pipe connections, then additional space, more materials, and pipe outlets for connection will be required.

In any case, all types of stoves contain the same components. The underarm is the place where the firewood is dried, the underflow is the bottom of the cooking chamber, otherwise called the crucible, inside which firewood or heat-resistant utensils are stored. There is also a view - a window covered with a door, which serves as a way to block the chimney, and in addition to it, a damper is installed that regulates the internal draft. The chimney has at its beginning a small niche called an overpipe.

Structure of the structure

Additionally, they assemble the stove bench by placing it behind the chimney, directly above the crucible, which is heated by the heat of the fire. If you plan to cook food using a stove, assemble a hearth, which, if the hob moves, serves as a place to keep the food from getting cold.

Modern modifications often include a water tank to ensure there is always hot liquid at home. Having the ability to warm up the flood part of the structure allows the entire building to reach a high temperature sooner, which means the house will warm up faster.

Other oven options

Russian stove with stove bench and stove

In addition to the classic version, there are other modifications.

Russian stove with stove bench and stove

This model is the most popular because it allows you to heat the room and cook food in the usual way. According to the scheme of a Russian stove with a stove bench and a stove, the well is first laid, then the door and vent are mounted (rows 3, 4), the stove is installed on the 9th row. Everything else is according to the template.

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Mini Russian oven

Due to the fact that the furnace and the stove are adjacent, the dimensions of the furnace are significantly smaller - no more than 100 x 130 cm. The height of the structure is the same as that of the classic model; the overpipe ends in a pipe that goes into the ceiling.

Russian stove with fireplace and stove bench

This model is very complex; its laying will require not only knowledge, but also experience. The formation of fireplace channels begins already from the 2nd row. (they will require 14 doors and a blower door), and ends on the 38th row.

Laying 7-10 rows

The seventh row is laid out in the same way as the fifth, squeezing the butts of the side walls under the heel. The eighth row is formed according to the same principle as the sixth. This is where the creation of the foundation for the pole begins, which includes three rows of full-size interlocking bricks. The countdown starts from the frontal plane of the unit.

The ninth row repeats the location and shape of the bricks of the seventh row. The base of the pole continues to be laid out on it. It is formed above the arch of the substructure, forming a continuous lining. When laying out a Russian stove with flooding, the order must be followed exactly, otherwise the design will turn out to be unreliable.

The corners of the tenth row are laid out from 3/4 bricks, the sides from full-size spoons, and the back from full-size bonded bricks. The front part of the structure is laid with three rows of full-size bricks deep. As a result, each row should have 7 bricks laid flat. As a result, a special plane is formed - a sixth. The space created between the back wall and the pole must be filled with gravel, sand and clay.

Scheme of a Russian stove with a hob

In Rus', they cooked directly in the oven, leaving the dishes to simmer in the cooling crucible, sometimes for many hours. Modern models often have a built-in wood-burning stove, making it possible to cook over an open fire. It is located directly above the combustion chamber doors.

The hob is most often made of cast iron - it is a heat-intensive and durable metal, which has the peculiarity of not giving off heat directly to the surrounding space, but retaining it within itself. This allows you to create comfortable conditions for cooking - there is no zone with overheated air around the stove.

Photo 3. Diagram of a Russian stove with a stove bench and a cast iron stove. The dimensions of the finished device are also indicated.

Successful cooking will be ensured by special holes in the stove that give an open flame direct access to the walls of the cookware. To increase or decrease the heating intensity, removable cast iron circles are provided that change the diameter of the burner.

Attention! Despite all the positive properties, cast iron is a very fragile material

If you carelessly pour water over a hot cooking surface, it will crack. Cast iron also cannot be repaired or welded, so a damaged plate will require a complete replacement

Cast iron also cannot be repaired or welded, so a damaged stove will require a complete replacement.

Furnace designs for private low-rise construction

About 150 bell furnace designs have already been created and brought to life. All of them have stood the test of time and are working successfully. Kuznetsov’s team of like-minded people continues to develop new options, improving existing ones. His website contains complete information with detailed descriptions and recommendations for making stoves.

Models are indexed and written with abbreviations. For example, OVIK stands for “heating and cooking stove by Igor Kuznetsov.” OIK is simply “heating”, etc. Each project is accompanied by step-by-step instructions and visual ordering, made in the AutoCAD program.

Combined model of a stove with a fireplace: the location of the fireplace on the stove is selected based on the layout of the room - a side fireplace, a back fireplace and a side fireplace with a stove bench

There is no need to do calculations and calculations: the site provides accurate measurements and descriptions of finished projects. If necessary, you can contact Kuznetsov and discuss the design conditions with the formulation of a specific task.

Vertically located hoods allow you to build a narrow stove if the room is very small.

The stove can be installed in any home: a new building or an already built one. But construction in a finished house will cost more, since the roof will have to be partially dismantled to remove the chimney. It is better to schedule work for warm weather. To choose the right place to install the stove, you should remember that the closer it is located to the center of the room, the more uniform the heating will be. At the same time, the stove is located closer to the front door - it is more convenient to bring in fuel.

Video: construction of a Kuznetsov furnace with a water boiler

A round-shaped dome stove operates with the greatest heat output. But if we are talking about a small room and the radius of the furnace circumference is less than 2 m, complications arise with the installation of furnace castings - firebox doors, cleaning pockets, etc. Metal parts designed for flat surfaces are not placed in semicircular shapes: gaps and cracks will appear, which is unacceptable.

A schematic representation of the functioning of the furnace with horizontal cuts and orders helps to better understand the specifics of laying bricks

An experienced craftsman with an assistant lays out a bell-type stove in 2–3 weeks (depending on the complexity of the model). The process is unhurried and requires great care; the fitting of all parts must be careful, with measurements. A beginner will need more time, and you need to be prepared for this before starting work.

DIY Russian mini oven

A large structure is not suitable for every home, so you can make a mini Russian stove with your own hands. You can do it with a flood and use it in the summer, when there is no need to heat the premises.

Russian mini stove

When thinking about how to make a mini stove, you can settle on the classic version. The size of the base is 1x1.3 m. A mini-brick oven is built as follows:

Organize a small foundation.
Build a red brick guardhouse.
Lay the walls under the stove.
Lay down a wooden template to form the lower arch.
Build walls with an arch for the combustion chamber.
Pour sand into the arch.
Proceed to forming the front wall, mouth, pole, over-tube.

This type of mini Russian oven can be laid out quite quickly with your own hands and does not require any special skills.

Arrangement of the Russian mini-stove “Housekeeper”

This is one of the variations of a mini brick oven. The housekeeper stove is different in that it has 2 combustion chambers of different sizes. The top of the structure is equipped with a vault and a slab. The 1x1.5 m design includes 33-34 brick rows.

The features of its construction are as follows:

In the 1st row, correct bandaging of the material is important for strength.
On rows 2-5, the construction of blower channels is necessary.
In the 6th row, cover the chambers with grates.
On the 7-9th row of the housekeeper, build the main firebox using wood, then start building the firebox.
At 10-12 rows, close the channels, install the stove and proceed to the walls of the furnace and the arch of the main chamber.
Complete the bundle of walls with rows 15 and 16.
On the 17th row, lay a 3x3 cm steel corner. You will need to form a hilo along it and move to the base of the chimney.
On rows 16-18, build a furnace arch. Pour sand into the arch.
Use a double brick to cover the next rows.
When laying the 20-25th row, do not forget about the formation of ventilation ducts.

Ordering the Emshanov mini oven

This is one of the variations of the wood-burning housekeeper. Its advantage is uniform heating of the side walls. Such a housekeeper stove is built with your own hands from rubble ceramic bricks M100. Two vertical symmetrical caps corresponding to the height of the entire structure are laid out inside. The firebox is formed from fireclay ШБ-5.

With water heating box

This modification of the Russian housekeeper stove is distinguished by a prefabricated flue gas assembly. To do this, use coaxial stainless steel pipes with thick machines.

This insert has several meanings:

flue gases will not leak into the room;
the thermal load on the chimney will decrease;
When using low-quality firewood, soot will collect on the insert.

The space turns out to be small, so for a water tank of 20-30 liters you need to make a niche in the side of the stove wall. The cavity is laid out on 5-8 rows near the main firebox. The container is built into it.

It is important to build a separate channel for combustion products and fence off the container with a partition so that its walls do not burn out. The tank can be replaced with a stainless steel coil

Mini stove finishing process

Incorrectly selected solutions may not immediately crack or even crumble the next day, but they will still not last long.

Building a stove with a firebox and a fireplace is a fairly long process. People often look forward to its end. The most labor-intensive and time-consuming part of the work is brickwork. However, even after the last brick is laid, it will be too early to consider the job finished. You will also need to complete the finishing that the mini-heater needs.

If the mini stove is very neatly built from beautiful facing bricks, has a smooth front edge and right corners, you can do without additional finishing. However, quite a large number of people have their own prejudices about the fact that brickwork should not be in the house at all. Consequently, the heated house is often provided plastered and whitewashed.

The traditional method would be to simply coat it with clay mortar.

This is done without the use of any special tools - clay is thrown on and smoothed with a moistened palm.

The surface after such a finishing process may not be completely smooth, with traces of handmade work. It is worth understanding that today this technique is widely used to create something unique in interior design.

Modern technology for applying plaster involves the use of special tools. among which there will be trowels that will be needed to apply the solution, trowels to level the applied solution, a grater with which the solution is compacted and the surface is leveled in a circular motion.

The heated building can only be plastered when it is 100% dry. Before moving on to this process, you should heat it. The solution will consist of clay and sand in a ratio of two parts sand to one part clay.

Stove with stove and stove bench, its dimensions

The main distinguishing feature of such a device is the large dimensions of the furnace. In order for an adult to fit on the floors, the length of the entire structure must exceed two meters and the width one and a half meters. The bed itself is located above an elongated furnace, which ensures a constant flow of heat.

Previously, in traditional models, the floors were located under the ceiling, at a height of about 1.8 m, and were climbed onto them using an attached ladder.

This ensured longer preservation of heat - when the hut cooled down in the morning, on the floors, due to the distance from the floor, the temperature was still quite high.

Nowadays, the bed is placed at a comfortable level of about one meter, because modern materials have better thermal insulation of the house.

Reference. In previous years, a high furnace was traditionally built - in addition to heating functions, it was used as a home mini-bath, so it had to accommodate a person, which also influenced the height of the floors.

The scheme, which includes both a hob and a bed, remains the most common. To build such a structure, lightweight schemes have been developed that even a not very experienced builder can handle. The disadvantage of such a stove will be the reduced efficiency of heating the room compared to other models.

What does it consist of?

Before you start laying a Russian stove, you need to understand what it consists of. Due to some names, it is not clear to modern people why they are needed, we tried to figure it out.

Podpechek is a small niche at the very bottom. Used to dry firewood.
Opeche. It can be called the foundation. In the old days it was covered with boards. In modern construction, it is made of stone or concrete. Above is located below.
Under is the bottom.
The pole is a small niche in front of the crucible. Traditionally used for cooking and heating food.
The crucible is the heart of the furnace. This is the place where heat-resistant dishes were placed and food was cooked.
The burnt area is a place where burnt coals were raked. Located on the side of the pole.
The pole window is the hole located directly above the pole.
A stove is a recess in a stove. There may be several of them. Traditionally used for drying small wet items.
A small door leads into the chimney and is used for cleaning it.
Hailo is a smoke passage located between the mouth and the pipe, necessary for proper smoke circulation.
View - this is used to cover the pipes after heating to preserve heat.
The valve is a metal plate for regulating draft.
The pipe is designed to allow smoke to escape.
Cutting is a thickening in the wall of the pipe where it passes through the ceiling, in order to prevent fire.
Mirror – side wall. Sometimes she goes into the next room to better heat the house.
The mouth is the entrance to the furnace, covered with a valve.
The valve is a metal lid that closes the mouth.
The vault is a furnace ceiling, made in the form of an arch on the furnace floor.
Lounger - located above the arch. The warmest and most comfortable place in a Russian hut.

In addition, the oven can be equipped with a heating element. A separate firebox allows the stove to operate in 2 modes - winter and summer.

The bottom line is that in winter mode, the smoke travels a greater distance and transfers heat to the walls of the stove, thereby heating it up more and heating the room better. In summer mode, smoke is released directly into the chimney along the shortest path, thereby making the house less hot, but you can still cook food. In the figure above, yellow indicates the path of smoke from the firebox to the chimney in summer, and red from the firebox to the chimney in winter.

Advantages of a Russian stove with a stove bench for a country house

A full-fledged Russian stove is multifunctional; it is used:

for heating the house;
for cooking food;
as a sleeping place;
for the effective treatment of a number of diseases.

The heat transfer of the device reaches 75-80%; in terms of this indicator, the device can only be compared with gas boilers running on mains fuel.

The heat generated by a Russian stove does not dry out the air, does not burn oxygen and is evenly distributed throughout all rooms. Due to the high heat capacity of the materials, a comfortable temperature in the house is maintained for up to 12 hours after the last installation of firewood.

A sound and restful sleep on a stove bed gives strength and helps fight colds. With rheumatism, radiculitis and other diseases of the musculoskeletal system, the pain recedes almost immediately. The device not only feeds and warms, it also heals!

The device is easy to use. It can be heated with firewood, wood waste, coal, or pressed materials in briquettes, the cost of which is usually low.

The service life of the device is practically unlimited. A Russian stove adds color to the interior of any home; even in a modern cottage it will become the center of attention and a place around which company will gather for a pleasant pastime.

Important! The building also has its drawbacks, these include the need to procure raw materials for heating

Mortar for laying the stove

The thinness and elasticity of the composition and the absence of cracks after drying are important. You can use a ready-made mixture from the store or make it yourself. For this you need purified clay. It needs to be soaked in water, and after a day kneaded with sand - first, several variations of the solution are made for testing, changing the proportions. From each they form cakes, 1 cm thick. After 2-3 days they are examined - where there are fewer cracks, the composition is better.

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To ensure uniformity of the clay, after soaking it is wiped through a mesh with 0.5 cm cells. When preparing the solution for the firebox, it is better to replace ordinary sand with fireclay powder. Mix it with clay 1:3(4).

Masonry of a Russian stove

Before work, it is important to study the designs of Russian stoves. There are different options, so the masonry scheme may differ

The drawings cannot be changed - the specified order must be strictly followed.

Complete tightness is important for the safety of the structure. This is ensured by the following points:

Use quality stone. There shouldn't be any cracks.
The seams between the rows are 0.5-0.8 cm thick.
Do not coat the inner walls with clay - soot will be deposited on them, and therefore thermal conductivity will decrease.
Different departments differ in the thickness of the masonry from ¼ of the thickness of the brick to its full length.
If the brick is ceramic, then it needs to be soaked to prevent moisture from being absorbed from the mortar.

Laying 5 and 6 rows

Then the laying of the Russian stove continues, and the order looks like this.

To create the fifth row, two 3/4 bricks are laid in the second and third corners. The back side is made of two spoon rows. The side wall is laid out from bonded material. The first and fourth rows are filled with interlocking, non-full-size bricks.

The sixth row is laid out in the same way as the fourth. On this row, they begin to create an arch to cover the underarm. For this purpose, the spoon bricks are cut off to form a heel under the arch. When a Russian housekeeper stove is created, the ordering involves the use of beam vaults.

Do it yourself or order work

Does it make sense to take on such complex work yourself? How much does the work of an experienced and reliable stove-maker cost? If 100% of the cost of materials, as is customary in general construction work, then it is not that expensive.

By no means, not twice as much against the material. You can come across offers to build a stove for 20,000 rubles, but this is obvious nonsense. Let's try to figure it out ourselves.

Russian stove with stove

A stove maker works in mid-latitudes for six months, and always with an apprentice. Considering their employment at 100% of working time, the salary of a master at 25,000 rubles, and an assistant at 15,000, and the work completion time is 7 working days (this is a completely realistic period), we find that a simple stove will cost no less than 45,000 rubles, and a Russian stove with a stove and water heater (see figure) at 55,000-60,000 rubles.

But in a week it will be possible to heat it. There is only one condition: the master must tell where, when and to whom he has already installed the stoves, and they must be inspected personally. Good masters always stock up on recommendations, and if they hesitate and mumble, it’s better to turn to someone else.

Drying

Despite the completion of construction work, the operation of the structure is still temporarily delayed.

Attempts to immediately heat the device or ventilate the room will lead to artificial acceleration of drying, which will lead to cracking of the solution, completely disrupting the sealing of the structure.

Avoiding such problems is quite simple - you need to wait a couple of weeks, first leaving all the doors, latches, and flaps open.

If you want to better dry the recesses under the stove, you should use electric lamps with a power of 200 to 250 W.

Design of a Russian stove with a stove bench

Dimensions of a classic stove: width about one and a half meters (two arshins); length - just over two meters (three arshins); the bed was placed at a height of approximately human height - approximately 180 centimeters (or two and a half arshins), the height of the hearth was approximately 45 cm, the height of the hearth was taken equal to the height of the table.

The stove was erected on a foundation made of small fragments of brick, stones, or less often on a log foundation (oak, pine and other species). The structure was erected at the same time as the house, but their foundations are by no means built together; isolation is a must. The oven itself was built either from baked bricks or from adobe (in those families where income did not allow the use of red brick for construction). The first “dymnitsa” (chimneys) were made of wood, then, due to the fire hazard of the material, wood was replaced with stone and brick.

Furnace design: furnace - firebox, place where fuel combustion occurs; pole and sub-rack - auxiliary table for dishes and a niche under it; under – the bottom of the firebox; hailo - a hole for releasing smoke into the hut; oven - space for storing firewood; mouth - a hole for storing firewood, closed with a flap.

Design elements

Elements of the design of a Russian stove To understand the drawings, explanations for them and understand the order, you should study the terms used by stove makers.

A firebox or crucible is a part of a structure in which fuel is burned and, in some cases, food is cooked by baking or simmering.
The vault is a massive element that bounds the top of the furnace. The laying is carried out without voids. Due to the large mass of stone, the vault accumulates heat during combustion and warms the room for a long time in the period between laying firewood.
Under (flat) - the bottom of the firebox, necessary to give the structure strength.
Cheek (chip) - the façade of the furnace, combining the under, crucible and vault.
The mouth is the opening of the furnace through which fuel is added and dishes are loaded.
The sixth is a horizontal surface that makes it easy to work with dishes. Utensils are placed on the platform before placing them in the crucible and after removing them.
The subrack is used to store utensils, fuel and other accessories. The element is located under the pole and does not heat up.
The oven is the space under the hearth in which a supply of firewood is stored.
Hailo is a device connecting the furnace and the chimney.
Stoves are niches that increase the area of the walls and improve heat transfer. The recesses are used for drying herbs and small items.
Threshold (tooth, gas threshold) - an arc-shaped ceiling of the arch to retain hot flue gases and increase the heat transfer area, thereby increasing efficiency. Sometimes the element is called a scutum or shield.
The roof is the part of the stove on which the stove bench is installed.
The hearth is a hollow space to increase the combustion time of flue gases.
The subtop is a small oven located under the hearth or on the side of it.

How to build a Russian stove with your own hands: ordering and step-by-step laying

If you have not previously encountered bricklaying, and have only theoretical ideas about construction, you should not start creating a device.

For work you will need a level, a plumb line, a trowel, a rule and a square with a tape measure.

Photo 5. Option for arranging a Russian stove with a stove bench and tiles for cooking. Contains 24 stages.

First, a layer of waterproofing is laid, the perimeter of the base of the device is laid out on it, all parameters are checked, and the order is carried out according to the diagram drawn on paper.

Reference. Each brick needs to be kept in a bucket of water for a while for better adhesion to the mortar. During work, you must constantly check that geometric proportions are observed. There is no need to rush; if difficulties arise, you can involve a knowledgeable person; the opinion of an experienced stove maker will always come in handy.

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The first continuous row is laid out, chipped bricks are placed in the corners to ensure the ligation of the rows. Next come the internal walls, as well as the arched opening for the heating. From the 5th row a semicircular arch is formed; formwork will be required here.

Further rows of sidewalls consist of brick halves. Rows 11 and 12 complete the formation of the base. The vault goes up to the 20th row. 21 and subsequent rows are the basis of the bed. In the 26th row a door is installed, in the 32nd row a damper is installed, and above the place for joining the chimney is indicated.

Device order

Laying layers in rows:

1. Laying reheated bricks without screeds on a material that will protect the structure from water penetration.

2. Solid bricks on the sides of the future hearth must be placed edge-on.

3. It is recommended to install a blower door.

4. Conventional bricklaying

It is important to remember to leave a gap for the cleaning channel

5. Continuation of the cleaning channel. Construction of the base for the arches.

6. Narrowing the cleaning channel and installing a grate.

7-8. Placing a sheet of steel. Fastening the wire for tight installation of the combustion door.

9. Creation of sand bedding. The hearth bricks are installed in a complete row on edge.

10-11. Installation on top of the hob. On the edge of the hearth you need to lay out bricks, divided in half.

12, 13, 14. The rows are laid out similarly to the previous ones.

Photo 4. Option for arranging a Russian brick stove with a firebox and a hob. The construction includes 27 stages.

15. Raising the arch.

16-18. Laying knitting metal wire. Narrowing of the arch.

19-21. The final stage of building a bed.

22. Raising the height.

23-31. Formation of a pipe channel. Installation of blower and valve.

Difficulties when working with your own hands

A number of difficulties that you may encounter during construction:

Insufficient knowledge of the stove craft.
Delays in the construction of the device due to lack of time or experience.

To facilitate the construction process you need:

Lay bricks only one at a time. If you are a beginner, it is better to lay out each new row on a dry, flat surface.
Before laying, thoroughly clean the brick from crumbs and dust with a hair brush.
Dip the ceramic brick into clean water for a few seconds, then shake it off. The rule does not apply to fireclay bricks.
If the brick lays incorrectly the first time, it needs to be removed, cleaned off the mortar and put back.
Do not forget that the removed solution is not suitable for use.

Ordinary masonry of the stove

After preparing the base and familiarizing yourself with the drawings, you can move on

It is important to strictly follow the order indicating the correct position of the bricks and installation of stove fittings

With stove and bed

If you plan to bake a stove with your own hands, then the simple procedure looks like this:

Make a continuous and even row.
Lay out the internal compartments, design the cleaning channels and ash pan chamber.
Place the door of the blower and cleaning chamber. Secure them with steel wire, placing the ends in the seams.
Close the vault, block the entrances to the channels, form holes and decorate the ceiling of the bottom channel from the inside.
Fix the grate in a large firebox. Carry out the internal masonry without mortar; it is better to use fireclay, cutting it in half in thickness. Place the door on the small firebox.
Install the hot water tank.
Place the grate on the small firebox and the door on the large firebox. Stretch the right wall with a strip of steel. There is no need for mortar behind a large firebox.
Install and secure the small firebox door. Continue to output internal channels.
This row is combined with the previous one.
Lay out the bottom of the furnace, combine the combustion vaults. Bring the channel holes into the chamber and close the water heating tank.
At the edge of the masonry, secure a 5x5 cm metal corner between the fireboxes. Cover the space of the large firebox behind the stove with a grate. There is no need to secure it.
Form the chimney and the walls of the furnace. Install a damper on the left.
Continue the algorithm.
Form an entrance to the chimney. It will be opened by a valve (vertical). Remove the walls of the furnace and make a hole for the damper.
Begin to narrow the masonry, blocking the roof of the chamber. Proceed with the removal of the chimney.
Reinforce the walls with strips of metal.
Secure the back wall with a strip of metal. Narrow the chamber vault further and prepare to lay the vault. Above the niche with the slab, lay a corner and a strip of metal - the basis for the masonry that creates the ceiling.
Lay out the outer walls and roof of the furnace in the shape of a dome. You can install a template or weld an arch from strips of metal.
Strengthen the wall above the entrance to the chamber with a strip of metal and surround the roof of the furnace with walls.
Pour sand and compact it.
Proceed to the base of the bed. Lay a sand embankment and narrow the slit in front.
Narrow the overpipe and install a panel with a circular hole to change the direction of the smoke.
Install the cleaning window door.
Install the draft control valve.
Continue to cover the space.
Work according to the algorithm.
Combine the overpipe and chimney on rows 27-29. Lay out the chimney before starting to form the groove. In the place where the chimney passes the attic floor, use cement mortar.

When the pipe is brought to the roof, make an otter - an extension above the roof in the form of an overlap. Close the gaps between the roof and the chimney with waterproofing.

The Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench is multifunctional. It gives warmth, they cook food on it, and they rest on top. Any things will dry on it instantly.

With a stove for a cauldron

Both the components and the masonry resemble a Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench. Refusal of the latter is beneficial due to the reduction in dimensions and a stove on which a large cauldron will fit. The order is:

Make a level and continuous base.
Install an ash chamber.
Secure the cleanout doors.
Place the grate.
Form a flood chamber.
Start lining the firebox.
Start building the walls.
Align the corners.
Align under.
Form a hailo.
Place the stove.
Build a combustion chamber.
Close the smoke duct.
Form the roof of a large firebox.
Build walls.
Continue the previous row.
Connect the walls with the arches.
Continue the row.
Insulate the furnace.
Take care of the general overlap.
Continue the algorithm.
Set the valves.
Install cleanout doors.
Continue the previous row.
Follow the algorithm.
Close the channel.
Form a chimney.
Install the valves.

All that remains is to build the pipe to the ceiling. Cover it with 2x1.5 bricks. To insulate the ceiling, non-combustible material is used - metal, asbestos.

You can build a stove with a firebox and a stove bench. In this case, the length of the combustion chamber is increased or an extension is built, inside of which there will be smoke channels.

Are you planning to build a Russian stove for yourself?

Not really

Installation process

If you nevertheless decide to lay the furnace with your own hands, then familiarize yourself with the features and technology of carrying out the main work. This will help you complete the process correctly and avoid mistakes during installation. According to experts, many are able to complete all stages of construction without outside help.

Foundation and foundation

It is very important to take care of constructing a reliable foundation for a brick structure. It must withstand heavy loads and not sag under them

The lower part of the oven is reserved for baking and remains free. It is convenient to store household supplies and kitchen utensils there. Concrete slabs or steel beams in combination with brick are chosen as the floor for the oven.

Due to the high fire danger, the use of wooden supports is not recommended, but is not prohibited. If you still cannot replace such material with anything, do not forget about antiseptic wood treatment. Otherwise, the ceiling may be damaged by insects.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the seams and their correct processing. They should look neat after applying the cement mortar.

External walls are plastered with conventional mixtures intended for interior decoration.

Brick walls are laid parallel to each other in two rows on top of the foundation, observing the alignment. In the third row, a door for the blower is installed. Next, the masonry continues, and doors for cleaning the firebox are installed in the fifth row, and lining is also performed (internal lining made of refractory bricks). The next row will require installation of a grate.

In the seventh row we form blind channels, thanks to which we will get a warm place for the bed. Here we install the furnace door. Then you need to create channels (lowering and rising). Up to the eleventh row, the whole process is repeated, and only in this row the combustion door is closed and suction channels are formed (from the heil to the side channel, from the firebox to the riser and two transitions between the blind chambers).

Next, the suction channels are blocked and the formation of the caps (blind channels) is completed. In the thirteenth row, it is necessary to complete the lining and shut off the fuel chamber. The next layer of masonry consists of floors.

Starting from the sixteenth row, it is necessary to form a vertical channel (smoke) and a partition for protection from fire. This process lasts until the twenty-second row, in which the chimney valve is installed. Now all that remains is to lay out the chimney and you can move on to the decorative finishing, thanks to which the Russian stove with a warm stove bench, created by yourself, will organically fit into your interior.

The nuances of drying a lined stove

The laid oven should dry well.

There are several nuances:

drying is necessary even before the construction of the chimney;
You cannot fully heat the stove right away - there is a risk of loss of tightness and the appearance of streaks;
drying should be natural for at least 10 days, with doors and valves open;
The first times you need to heat it carefully - use little wood, open the smoke valves and close the fireboxes;
For 1-1.5 weeks, the stove is heated every day, starting with 3-4 kg of firewood and increasing their amount daily by 1-1.5 kg;
a full-fledged firebox is permitted when, after 2 hours from the start of the firebox, there is no condensation at all on the metal elements.

Russian stove in the house: pros and cons

It is important to consider the advantages and disadvantages of the design

It has many advantages:

the heat flow is characterized by low density, and the heating surface area is very large, therefore the heat is always soft, the air does not dry out, and the effect has a healing effect;
a well-designed and built Russian stove ensures a warm rest on the stove bench, even when the temperature in the house is low;
part of the heat flows is transferred to the foundation and adjacent soil layers, drying them - the risk of swelling and subsequent deformation is reduced;
with good heating, the heat lasts for several days, so after a long working day or several days of absence the owner will not freeze in the house;
food cooked on a stove has a special taste and aroma - even simple dishes become tastier;
There are several fuel options - firewood, straw, peat, reeds, dung.

This structure is well suited for houses where people live permanently.

Its main disadvantages include:

costs of materials - for a similar amount you can build a fireplace and 2 Dutch stoves;
long heating - it takes 3-4 hours, and the room warms up to maximum 2-2.5 times longer;
a complex device, this applies to smoke channels, combustion chamber, vault layout.

The size of the modern Russian stove has become more modest. Today they prefer more compact designs with a stove, often abandoning beds. For clarity, before construction, you can make a model from boxes with your own hands. Previously, the structure did not warm up below. Flooding solved the problem. The Russian stove with heating is attractive due to its uniform heating and the possibility of partial kindling on non-cold days.

Alexander Batsulin

Born in Moscow on September 7, 1976.
Graduated from the Faculty of Chemistry of Moscow State University with a degree in Chemical Kinetics. He has been involved in the furnace business since 2000. Interests: construction and design of stoves for heating individual houses. Traditional timber construction. Tel. 8 (915) 169 1733 8 (950) 259-6401 e-mail: sashbats (а) mail.ru and Marcus Flynn

Marcus Flynn

Born in England in 1961, lives in Montreal, Canada.
Member of the North American Stove Makers Association. He has been involved in the furnace business for more than 20 years and specializes mainly in the construction of Finnish counterflow furnaces in various versions. Area of interest: non-standard cladding made of antique bricks, Art Deco design, history of stove making. In filling its website, www.pyromasse.ca adheres to the “open source” policy. they put a Russian stove and a couch in the Russian outback,
and they are filmed by a hidden camera.
End of August 2009

Time passed, and at the end of February 2012, on the eve of Maslenitsa, inspired by our video about pancakes in a Russian stove, Channel One (ORT) made a short story for the Good Morning program with this stove.

26.01.2012

Author: A. Batsulin

Laying a Russian stove: technology and construction tips

In order to build a simple Russian stove you will need from 1.5 to 2 thousand bricks. The bricks are laid in rows. A standard stove includes 25-31 rows (excluding the chimney).

It is better to lay the first row of the stove with waterproof, heated bricks. The walls of the furnace are one brick thick, and the front part of the cooking surface is half as thick. Wood formwork is usually placed in the oven opening. When laying the vaults of the oven and furnace, it is best to use wedge-shaped bricks. They can be easily made with your own hands, since production involves processing ordinary bricks.

Chimney diagram

The last stage is the construction of the chimney. This is a separate science, and in order to better understand it, below is a diagram of a chimney for a Russian stove:

In addition to the pipe itself, the stove chimney has the following elements:

cutting: needed to provide fireproof insulation from the wooden floor of the house with a thickness of 1.5-2 bricks;
otter: this is the assembly of the chimney passing through the roof;
head: a multi-purpose element that improves traction, provides strength, and so on.

The masonry is made in accordance with the diagram from the same mortar as the stove, but only up to the roof level. There the solution needs to be changed to cement-sand, resistant to environmental conditions. It is recommended to plaster the section of the stove chimney located in the attic with a layer of clay over a metal mesh to prevent condensation from forming inside. Ideally, it is worth insulating the outer part of the chimney, for example, with basalt fiber.

Construction techniques

Opeche

The wooden guard supports a stove weighing up to 1600 pounds (approximately 750 kg), i.e. small or medium without baking. It is made in the form of a log house with two belts, backfilled with rubble and a flooring made of beams. The flooring is covered with felt, properly soaked in a liquid solution of fatty clay, and roofing iron is applied over it.

Arches and vaults

Arches and vaults are laid out from an ODD number of bricks on formwork on wooden templates - circles. First, a life-size cross-sectional drawing of the arch is made, then the castle bricks are hemmed onto the wedge. A do-it-yourselfer need not try to lay out a vault with a direct lock or without a lock; not every experienced mason can do this.

Next, the circles are prepared taking into account the thickness of the formwork boards and the vault is laid on them without a lock. Then you need to thickly lubricate the grooves of the locks with the solution and insert the locks into the groove. The next stage is to gradually hammer the locks into place one by one and in several passes. You can't get by with a mallet; you have to use a log. But you can’t beat like crazy; you need to use the inertia of a heavy log, and not the force of a sharp blow.

The quality of the vault closure is controlled by squeezing out the mortar sausages from the seams: it should be more or less uniform over the entire surface. The thick solution flows slowly, so you need to take breaks between passes. The result is a prestressed structure; Only such a vault will last for many decades.

Material consumption

The classic Russian stove described above, depending on the size, requires approximately the following amount of materials:

Small - 1500 bricks and 0.8 cubic meters. m of solution.
Average - 2100 bricks and 1.1 cubic meters. m of solution.
Large - 2500 bricks and 1.35 cubic meters. m of solution.

Possible difficulties

When building it yourself and lacking experience, it’s easy to make some mistakes:

Use of low-quality materials - cheap bricks often have defects or crack when heated to high temperatures.
If you do not soak the brick before construction, it will draw moisture from the mortar, which will lead to uneven drying and deterioration of the strength and tightness of the masonry.
The seams between the bricks are filled unevenly and not tightly enough - this later leads to a violation of the seal.

To avoid these and other mistakes, before starting work, it is better to seek advice from an experienced specialist.

Features of the work

Were you afraid of the difficulties and decided to build a stove? Then you need to decide on the type of construction and get a masonry plan

Please note that it is not recommended to carry out work at temperatures below +5 degrees. In winter, you should not build a stove. So, let's start making the design

The step-by-step guide looks like this:

So, let's start making the structure. The step-by-step guide looks like this:

First, you need to lay two rows of bricks on the foundation. A layer of waterproofing is required between them.
Wet the clay brick and lay out the first row at the level of the finished floor. Use only whole blocks; be sure to tie the corners with the next row. Three-quarter bricks are used for this. Three such blocks need to be laid in each corner. The joints must be less than 5 mm thick, and the mortar must be distributed over the entire surface of the brick. Constantly monitor the horizontalness of the masonry - otherwise you will not be able to make a high-quality stove.
You need to lay out the second row with solid bricks. It is imperative to leave a small gap for baking. If you do not plan to finish, then immediately open all the seams before the solution hardens. Bricks must be cleaned of any remaining mortar using a damp cloth. After the second row, horizontality must be assessed using a plumb line.
The third and fourth rows need to be tied in the corners. To lay the fourth, you need to use solid bricks. The arch of the oven will rest on the outermost briquettes located at the opening. They need to be squeezed.
After the fifth row you need to use formwork. With its help, the arch of the oven is made. From one heel to the other, the seams are tied, the bricks are pressed against each other as tightly as possible. The eighth row is the last for the vault.
The walls must be laid out in one brick. The dressing is done up to the 10th row, in which a platform for the underlay is provided. Under the arch, the space in the oven must be filled with sand or glass. In this case, the oven will be able to give off more heat.
The 11th row is laid out like the previous ones. This is a coating for the underlayment.
The 12th row is under. It is made using refractory bricks, no mortar is used. All gaps must be filled with sand. On the left it is necessary to provide a hole for ash and coals.
Now let's start laying the furnace. It is made entirely of refractory bricks. Seams no more than 3 mm. First you need to lay the bricks on the edge along the inner contour. As for the walls, they need to be made of ¾ bricks, bandaging is required. To increase the strength, you need to cut the briquettes located in the front two corners at an angle of 45 degrees. Install formwork between them.
The 16th row is the arch of the crucible. The entire space between the walls and the vault must be filled with sand. You need to lay out the arch from the edges, gradually moving towards the middle. Use twine to check the masonry.
The pole window has the shape of an arch. It is laid out after the arch.
On the 20th row, the walls of the stove are erected, while the space above the hearth is reduced.
The 25th row is done in approximately the same way as the 10th. The seams must be tied. The space above the pole needs to be reduced to form an overtube.
Row 22 – the over-pipe needs to be made even smaller. Then you put the samovar channel there.
23rd row - at this stage you need to provide a place for soot and a window for cleaning.
24th row - block the cross-pipe. Provide an opening for installing a view. Opposite it you need to put a door. The view will open and close through it.
29th row - the samovar channel and the over-pipe are connected.
32nd row - the overpipe is blocked using a solid brick. Leave one hole and close it with a latch. After installing it, you can begin laying the chimney.

All wood formwork can be removed a week after the masonry mortar has gained strength. It is not recommended to remove it earlier. By the way, the same principle is used to lay a stove or fireplace in a country house. It is also possible to build a Russian stove using this technology, but the main thing is to follow the instructions.

Correct operation

To use the device correctly and safely, the following rules must be observed:

Carefully monitor the condition of the chimney and clean it from ash in a timely manner.
Before each kindling, check the quality of the draft - this will help prevent smoke from entering the room.
If the stove has not been used for a long time, a thorough inspection is carried out for damage and cracks.
You should not light a stove while intoxicated or very tired; it is not recommended to leave small children alone near a burning stove.

Precise construction and compliance with all operating rules will ensure high-quality operation of the stove, efficient heating of the house, and the preparation of delicious traditional dishes.

Safety precautions

Improper handling of the stove can cause a fire. To avoid such trouble, it is recommended:

do not allow the use of other types of oils, except for used engine fuel;
do not start up faulty equipment;
do not allow the unit to be installed in a garage that does not have a ventilation system;
do not leave the room if the stove is working;
do not allow fires to start if there is no smoke exhaust duct;
the hole to the burner must not be blocked;
Oil should not splash onto a hot surface.

Important! The stove can only be used by adults. Children and animals should not come close to the unit

Ignoring safety precautions may cause a fire.

The video of making a stove during testing for a garage provides additional information on the construction of a heating unit: