polystyrene foam in the bathhouse under the floor

Features of the material

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene. Modern equipment makes it possible to produce material with an ordered structure in which small gas bubbles are evenly distributed. Such isolated and completely closed microscopic cavities have a size of about 0.1-0.2 mm. The reagent for foaming is light types of freon with the introduction of carbon dioxide.

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene

By its nature, penoplex is chemically inert, which eliminates its oxidation or rotting. The main goal of developing this material is to provide high thermal insulation capabilities with low water absorption and very high compressive strength. An important characteristic is good manufacturability, i.e. It cuts and bends easily, allowing it to be used in hard-to-reach places.

As is known, the thermal insulation characteristics of any foamed or porous material are sharply reduced under the influence of moisture, which is absolutely not typical for penoplex. A slight water absorption by the material is observed only in the first 7-8 days, when moisture fills the cells located near the surface. Subsequently, the penetration of water stops, and the initial saturation has little effect on the thermal insulation capabilities of the product. Moreover, it should be noted that it is impenetrable to steam, which is very important for bath conditions.

The main form of the slab: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm

The material is divided into 3 groups:

Its types differ in specific density, mechanical strength and heat resistance. Insulation of the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex is carried out by the first 2 types of material.

On a note! Penoplex 45 has increased mechanical strength and is intended for floors where significant load and vibration are possible.

The main form of production of the slab: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm. Sheets with a thickness of 10-12 cm are very popular. The standard length of the slabs is 120 and 240 cm; in special cases, material 4 or 4.5 m long can be used.

Why does a bathhouse need insulation?

A bathhouse needs insulation like no other room.
The greater the difference between the temperatures inside and outside the building, the greater the loss of thermal energy (the more often you have to run for firewood and let off steam). For comparison: the temperature difference in Moscow between an apartment and the street is only 50 degrees in winter. To insulate a bath, it is preferable to choose penoplex material. Read more about choosing penoplex in this article.

Penoplex is a modern building material used to insulate almost all (except high-temperature) parts of a building, starting with the foundation and basement, continuing with the walls inside and the facade, and ending with the attic and roof.

Penoplex is a close relative of polystyrene foam, but it is made using a different technology, and its physical, mechanical and chemical qualities far exceed those of polystyrene foam.

To compare the two insulation materials, here are the technical characteristics of penoplex and polystyrene foam:

Characteristic	Compressive strength, MPa	Thermal conductivity, W/(m*K)	Water absorption per day,%	Operating temperature
"Penoplex-Comfort"	0,27	0,31-0,32	0,40	-50…+75
Styrofoam	0,07-0,25	0,38	0,20	-50…+75

Penoplex is stronger than polystyrene foam, which is especially important for insulating facades and floors. In terms of thermal conductivity, too - the lower the thermal conductivity, the better the temperature is maintained, and this quality is simply key in our case. In terms of temperature conditions, they are equal, but in terms of water absorption, penoplex loses, but there is no need to be afraid of the figure of 0.4% per day, because in 28 days this figure increases to only 0.5%!

Use of material for bath insulation

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex?

There is a limitation under which the material can be reliably used - these are temperature parameters - 50 ... + 75 ⁰С. It is this characteristic that complicates its use in bath conditions. Already at temperatures above 70⁰C in heated air, the release of harmful compounds dangerous to humans can begin.

At temperatures above 70⁰С in heated air, the release of harmful compounds dangerous to humans may begin

In the sauna, the temperature rises +90...+95 ⁰С, and with such heating, using penoplex for interior decoration is dangerous to health. In a Russian bath, the temperature of the steam room can be +60…+65⁰С, which also raises doubts about the possibility of using the material, especially for insulating the ceiling, where superheated steam rushes. Another thing is the floor in the steam room. Taking into account the laws of physics, there is no need to worry about maximum temperatures at the floor level, but in reality they do not exceed +45...+50⁰С below. Here, cooling the floor from the ground side plays a significant role. You should also take into account the fact that the floor in the bathhouse is not covered with penoplex on top. The material is used as thermal insulation, on which a finishing coating is then applied. All this indicates the possibility of using penoplex in the steam room of a Russian bath. In any other bath premises (washing room, dressing room, rest room) the use of the material does not raise any doubts.

The material is used as thermal insulation, on which a finishing coating is then applied.

Principles of work

After familiarizing yourself with insulation materials, you can begin to insulate yourself. To do this, you need to prepare tools, consumables, draw up a project, and carry out the work.

Materials and tools

Consumables, tools:

sharp knife;

roofing felt sheets;
ruler, tape measure, building level;
sand, cement, water, container for mixing the solution;
electric drill, whisk attachment;
insulation;
waterproofing.

The amount of consumables depends on the area of the room. On the thermal insulation material, the manufacturer writes how many square meters the package is enough for.

Preparation and design

To properly insulate bath rooms, you need to prepare the base. To do this, you need to take into account some nuances:

Insulation must be carried out at the main stages of building construction. If this has not been done, you will have to dismantle the floor covering and pour a new screed.
The base must be smooth, without bumps, cracks, or chips. To level it, you need to pour fresh screed along the beacons.
It is not recommended to cover the materials that will cover the walls and the floor in the steam room with antiseptics. They can release harmful substances when heated strongly.

The insulation process varies depending on the type of room.

Thermal insulation of wooden floors

Execution of work:

When the concrete base is ready, it is necessary to create a frame to secure the thermal insulation. To do this, a rough base of bars should be filled on top of the lags. Intermediate slats are laid out between the beams.
The next stage is laying the waterproofing.
Insulation can be installed on top of the waterproofing material.
The top of the heat insulator is covered with another layer of waterproofing.

The last stage of construction is laying finishing boards.

Insulation of concrete floors

Execution of work:

Preparing the base.
Leveling the concrete slab.
Laying waterproofing.
Distribution of slab or bulk insulation.
Laying reinforcing mesh. It can be knitted from individual metal rods.

Installation of a "warm floor" system

If you only want to step on a heated floor, you can install a special system for forced heating of floor coverings. You need to choose what it will be - electric, water, infrared. Next, you need to purchase consumables and begin construction work. Main stages:

Prepare the base and level the subfloor.
Lay a layer of thermal insulation.
Attach a reinforcing mesh over the heat insulator.
Attach the system to the mesh.
Connect the structure to a general electrical network or water supply system. Check functionality.
Fill the subfloor.
Wait for the concrete to dry.

All that remains is to do the finishing touches.

Features of penoplex

Do-it-yourself insulation of the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex depends on its design and material. There are several options for ensuring it: insulation of the foundation, log base and floor.

The process of insulating a strip bath foundation involves applying waterproofing using bitumen mastic. Penoplex sheets are attached using an acrylic-type adhesive.

The work is carried out in the following order:

Advice! When insulating the lower part of the floor in a bathhouse, it is recommended to take separate care of the thermal insulation of the basement part of the wall, which is in more difficult conditions.

The insulation of the base is carried out in the following order:

Required Tools

When arranging a bath floor using foam boards with your own hands, you should prepare the following tools and devices in advance:

grinder (when installing wooden floors);
electric drill;
screwdriver;
sharp knife;
scissors;
furniture stapler;
paint brush;
putty knife;
trowel and other tools for concreting and plastering;
shovel;
hammer;
mallet;
roulette;
building level;
metal ruler.

Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex

Floor insulation

How to insulate a concrete floor in a bathhouse with penoplex? A concrete floor in a bathhouse without reliable thermal insulation will be cold. Penoplex is the material that easily copes with this problem. Floor insulation is carried out in the following order:

If the floors in the bathhouse have a wooden base, then the procedure for applying penoplex insulation will be as follows:

A layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier is applied on top of the penoplex

Attention! Important condition: all wooden floor elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition before installation.

Penoplex is a modern, excellent heat insulator. In the steam room it should be used with great care and with additional protection from harmful emissions at high temperatures. In other bath rooms, a floor with insulation made from this material will provide comfort and last for many years.

Source

Insulation of a strip foundation for a bathhouse with penoplex

Thermal insulation of the bathhouse foundation with penoplex

It is necessary to start the process after thoroughly waterproofing the base using bitumen mastic. To securely fix the sheets we use acrylic glue.

We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We apply five to six dots of acrylic glue to the first slab and fix it from the bottom edge.

We secure the remaining elements around the perimeter, connecting them together with a tongue-and-groove system.

We blow out the joints using acrylic glue or polyurethane foam.

Install the second layer with the seams offset. In areas of future backfilling with soil, we use acrylic glue for fastening. It can be attached to the base with dowels 12 cm long and 1 cm in diameter.

We cover the depressions from the fasteners with acrylic glue and wait for complete drying.

We fix the reinforcing fiberglass mesh with an overlap of 10 cm.

We plaster with penoplex to protect against soil action.

Level the surface with cement-sand mortar.

Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic: floor, ceiling, foundation

Foam plastic began to be used as insulation in the mid-20th century. The foam consists of expanded polystyrene. When foaming, air bubbles form. Due to the large number of air bubbles, polystyrene foam is considered an excellent thermal insulator. But is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic? Let's figure it out together.

Is it possible to insulate polystyrene foam and a bathhouse?

Foundation insulation

Like every building, a bathhouse begins to be built from the foundation.
You should start thinking about insulation at this stage. The foundation is thermally insulated so that it does not freeze and collapse. At the first stage, a blind area is formed from penoplex slabs on the outside of the foundation wall (it is not practical to insulate the inside). The sheets are connected using acrylic glue along the assembly seam. In places where it is absent, the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam. Then concrete is poured into the finished blind area, which is used to level the foundation. Why you need a blind area around the house, read here.

Polystyrene foam as insulation: pros and cons

Foam plastic is loved by users not only for its good thermal insulation properties. It has a number of advantages:

But despite all the good looks, polystyrene foam has a number of disadvantages that manufacturers are constantly struggling with:

Indeed, when burned, the material emits fumes that are harmful to humans. But manufacturers claim that modern material is made with the addition of a special fire-resistant substance, which helps it become self-extinguishing. It can ignite spontaneously only at a temperature of +420 °C; for example, spontaneous combustion of wood begins at a temperature of +270 °C.

Insulating a bathhouse with foam plastic is not as scary as it seems at first glance.

Harmful substances are released by the material when it melts, and not when heated in a bath. It is difficult to answer whether the manufacturers are telling the truth, and how to distinguish modern material from old batches. But practice has shown that insulation can be used for some parts of the bathhouse.

Advantages over other materials

Extruded penoplex, which is most often used in construction, has the following advantages:

Absolutely does not absorb moisture - using this material as insulation, you save on additional waterproofing equipment. This is especially important when insulating a bath;
The low coefficient of vapor permeability allows the use of penoplex to insulate the ceiling, especially the section of the roof above the steam room;
The material retains its original properties even when exposed to critical temperatures - it can withstand differences of more than 125 degrees (from minus to plus);
The material is very durable and easy to install.

Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic and how?

You can use insulation to insulate some parts of the bathhouse. But you should refrain from insulating the steam room with it, since the temperature in it can rise to 95 ° C, and in the sauna even higher. And foam plastic can begin to collapse at temperatures above +95 °C, so even 90 °C will be critical for it.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam to insulate wooden baths from the inside; the fact is that the walls will be insulated from heat and the dew point will shift between the insulation and the wall. This will lead to premature rotting. Therefore, insulation is carried out only on the outside or along internal partitions.

According to user reviews, the bathhouse, insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam, has become more comfortable, the temperature in it quickly rises and in winter does not drop below +10. The only thing you should not forget about is the vapor permeability of the foam. To prevent the walls from getting wet, it is necessary to install a ventilation system in the bathhouse.

We recommend insulating baths made of stone, brick or blocks with foam plastic. Wood itself is a good heat insulator. Moreover, a wooden bathhouse is capable of accumulating heat, that is, accumulating and retaining it for a long time.

Stages of work

The horizontal surface under the floor must be thoroughly cleaned and leveled. If you decide to insulate the floors in an already inhabited house, then before carrying out the work it is necessary to dismantle the floor covering. If it is still in good condition, then remove it carefully so that after work you can put it back in place. Well, if you plan to replace the coating, then you don’t have to stand on ceremony and remove it quickly. Check the condition of the subfloor. If it is deformed or there are defects, carry out work to strengthen it.

Prepared wooden logs must be positioned and secured in such a way that there is a space of no more than 70 cm between them.

Before laying the insulation, it is necessary to treat the logs and all wooden elements with antiseptic solutions. This precautionary measure will protect the tree from rotting and damage by bugs. After antiseptic treatment, it would also be useful to treat with a moisture-repellent agent.

First, you need to lay out a layer of thick waterproofing film on the boards or plywood, so carry out the work of installing the waterproofing. Keep in mind that this material is overlapped (about 15 cm) to ensure complete tightness and high-quality protection from moisture.

It is possible that it will be useful for you to study the material about insulation for the walls of a house outside under siding.

Floor insulation scheme.

The next step is the direct installation of insulation on wooden boards. When laying out the penoplex, carefully ensure that no gaps or cracks form during the work. Careful placement of the material will provide reliable protection from the cold.

The floor covering is laid on top: laminate, parquet, solid wood, etc.

By the way, similar work can be done in an ordinary apartment. Such insulation is of particular relevance if you live in an apartment building on the ground floor.

Penoplex can also be used as an insulator under a “warm floor” system. In this case, it will provide additional protection of the room from blowing and heat loss. In order to lay the material in this case, a concrete screed with floor pipes built into it is used.

You will probably want to find out more information about whether it is possible to insulate the ceiling and floor with sawdust.

Which parts of the bathhouse are advantageous to insulate with foam plastic?

Since polystyrene foam is not only a good heat insulator, but can additionally protect the surface from moisture, it is often used to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse.

How to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse?

Polystyrene foam is excellent for foundation insulation. But we must not forget that the insulation crumbles and is afraid of mechanical damage. To protect it from the outside, it is necessary to make a protective partition from boards or bricks.

Foam plastic is optimal for insulating the foundation. It does not allow water to pass through and the foundation will be reliably protected.

Polystyrene foam has proven to work well as insulation for the foundation of a sauna on loamy and clay soil. Since moisture does not get inside the material, it will protect the base of the bathhouse from moisture and heaving in spring and winter. But you should not use insulation when the groundwater level is higher than usual and flooding cannot be avoided. Moisture getting under the foam cannot evaporate and the foundation will begin to collapse.

The thickness of the foam for insulating the foundation of a bathhouse is chosen according to your region, so for the middle part of Russia 50 mm is suitable. In the corners of the structure, thicker material of 100 mm is used, since heat loss in the corners is the highest.

Progress of foundation insulation work:

The foundation is first excavated and cleaned of dirt. Apply a primer made of bitumen mastic and a waterproofing agent, for example, liquid rubber, to the wall. The coating is left to dry for 1–2 hours.

The foam is attached directly to the foundation wall using bitumen mastic or a polymer-based adhesive. The slabs begin to be laid from below, and they must rest on a hard base. If the foundation is just being built, then a protrusion is specially left for the foam slabs. For the old foundation, gravel is added on which the slab will rest.

The joints and the part that is glued are completely lubricated with bitumen mastic. On sale you can find foam boards with an L-shaped lock. These are easier to glue together and the protection will be more airtight.

When the slabs are laid, they are once again covered with bitumen mastic and a protective partition is made. It's easier to install boards, but they will rot quickly, so use brick. A half-brick wall is made from it along the entire foundation. Among modern materials, geotextiles have performed well. It is simply rolled out along the foam and the protection is ready. But the price of geotextiles is high.

The entire structure is buried on the side with soil and a concrete blind area is made on top. Making such insulation is labor-intensive, but the bathhouse will be protected reliably.

Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic floors?

Since polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture, it is often used to insulate floors in saunas. If you close the material in a screed, there will be no mechanical effects on it, and the floor will be warm.

Insulation under concrete screed

Part of the soil is removed and a sand cushion of 10–15 cm is filled in. It is leveled and compacted. Then gravel is poured, which must be hammered into the sand. Next, cover with PVC film or roofing felt, they will serve as a waterproofing material.

It is not difficult to insulate floors in a bathhouse under a screed with polystyrene foam, but the result is a structure with high heat-insulating properties.

Next, foam boards are laid, which are coated with bitumen mastic. A PVC film is again laid on top of the foam and a reinforced mesh is laid. The base for the concrete screed has been assembled.

How to insulate sauna floors using joists

We do not recommend insulating floors along joists, on top of the subfloor, in a steam room, but in other rooms (dressing room or rest room) a similar option is appropriate. For insulation, you can even use the material in crumbs, because it will be laid between the finishing and rough boards and there will be no load on it.

Even a beginner can lay foam boards along the joists.

The rough joists are covered with waterproofing, possibly with PVC film, and polystyrene foam is laid on top. Place it between the joists. A finishing floor is installed on top.

Ceiling insulation with foam plastic

Often the ceiling of a bathhouse is insulated with foam plastic. But to use insulation, you must follow a number of rules:

Place polystyrene foam on the second layer between the ceiling joists. The first layer can be expanded clay or a mixture of clay and sawdust. The vapor barrier must be of very high quality, otherwise wet steam will get under the foam and remain there. But if you do everything correctly and efficiently, heating the bathhouse will be easier, since the warming up time will be reduced by 2 times. You can see more details on how to perform the work in the video:

Polystyrene foam is a good insulation material. But like any material, it has pros and cons. Knowing the disadvantages, you can prevent them with some design features of the thermal cake. We answered the question: Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic? Then the reader decides for himself. And the video and photos in this article will help you make the right choice.

Source

Briefly about the technology

Concrete floors

Let's start with concrete. Regardless of which type of insulation you plan to use, the entire process of insulating the floor will look approximately the same. Therefore, the step-by-step guide in my article will be more schematic than educational. However, to any person who is not so far from construction (and I suspect that there are some among the readers of my blog), everything will be clear without small details (which I can cover separately if questions arise).

So, whether you decide to lay foam plastic under the screed or use, for example, glass wool, the stages of work will not differ significantly. The first step is to prepare the base. The soil is thoroughly compacted, with the preparation of the so-called cushion (naturally, all the necessary details for arranging the drain are also provided). We think through the entire sewerage system in advance.

We fill in a rough screed, designed to ensure leveling of the base and ease of carrying out the next steps. After it hardens, a layer of waterproofing is installed (you can also read about this in more detail in other articles on my website).

Now a layer of thermal insulation is laid, the thickness of which depends on the design of your structure (at a minimum, it cannot be thinner than the standard sizes of the sheets of insulation used).

*Separate recommendations for working with perlite

Perlite and vermiculite
First, avoid drafts while preparing the mixture, otherwise your “sand” (which makes up the base) will scatter so much that you will not be able to collect it. Secondly, to make the mixture it is recommended to use cement of at least grade M 400. Thirdly, follow the recommended proportions, which will speed up the hardening of the layer and ensure its maximum efficiency.

After laying the thermal insulation, the main layer of concrete with its indispensable reinforcement should be poured (I also have many articles about the intricacies of this process).

Well, all that remains is to finish this epic (of course, after the concrete has completely hardened) by laying tiles or mosaics. True, there is one more point. If you are making a bathhouse “for yourself” and are ready to invest a little in it, then before laying the cladding, we can recommend installing an “electric heated floor”.

This is essentially the same as installing heated floors in any living space. Infrared film under the tiles is very easy to install, and turning on its heating depends only on your choice and weather conditions (but in severe frosts you will not regret having it). The relaxation room will delight your feet with great pleasure.

Another option is to make a water heated floor. For those interested, here is a link to the article. By the way, this small bathhouse has been in operation for 4 years, and so far there have been no problems with heating the floor or the entire room...

Wooden floors

Now let's talk about wood floors. In general, the technology for insulating them (meaning non-leaking floors) is similar to working with concrete. But there are also some peculiarities:

Choice of insulation. The ideal option, in my opinion, would be polystyrene foam, which does not allow moisture to pass through (when using other materials, you will have to think carefully about the correct arrangement of waterproofing).
Preparing the subfloor. I have also written about this more than once in articles on my website. Here you can use low-grade boards that will be attached to load-bearing beams (joists). At the same time, the essence of arranging such a floor will not differ much with different types of foundation. After all, both the strip foundation and the foundation on screw piles, after installing the support beam, turn into an elementary structure, work with which is carried out according to a single technological process.
Waterproofing membrane. A thin layer designed to protect beams and subfloors from exposure to steam or leaking water. When laying it, you should thoroughly insulate the joints and provide overlaps on the walls (about 20 cm).

Insulation. In general, the principle of its installation is so simple that I won’t even dwell on this point

The only thing I would like to pay attention to is the choice of insulation. Depending on the material used, you may have to install another layer of waterproofing on top of it. The final

All “unflattering” grooves and joints, as well as the space at the outlet of the sewer pipe and drain, can be blown out with foam. After this, feel free to lay the finished floor, not forgetting about the gaps (about 4 cm) between it and the underlying level, which will significantly improve ventilation and will help the floors dry out as quickly as possible.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a bathhouse: we make everything extremely simple

Today, many people are trying to have a Russian bathhouse in their homestead, and the easiest way is to build it yourself, then you can be absolutely sure that everything is done according to the technological process. Moreover, each stage of the device needs to be given a lot of time and attention so that everything works out as thoroughly as possible. Insulation also plays a significant role in this, and insulation of floor structures in the first place. True, you always need to start from the top, that is, from the ceiling, but a warm floor is simply of enormous importance.

The floor in a bathhouse is always exposed to particularly strong influences, ranging from sudden jumps and temperature changes to extreme humidity, which is also quite important. If you do not learn in time how to properly insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands, you will soon notice significant heat loss, and, consequently, unnecessary energy consumption. But this is not the most important thing. Whatever the structure of your floor, no matter how well it is made, if it is not properly insulated and provided with ventilation, it will soon begin to collapse, which may even lead to the fact that you will have to start building everything from scratch.

How to perform insulation

Thermal insulation of bathhouse walls is carried out comprehensively, always insulating the building from the inside, and in some cases, both from the outside and from the inside. Log and lumber bathhouses, as a rule, are not insulated from the outside, and only from the inside - a steam room and a washing room. Baths made of bricks and foam blocks - materials with high thermal conductivity - must be insulated from the outside to ensure the necessary temperature conditions inside the building. To insulate the bathhouse externally, first install the sheathing, secure the thermal insulation, wind and moisture-proof membrane, and at the final stage - the outer cladding.

Stages of insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside

Cleaning, sealing and filling of cracks in the base base. The walls of a bathhouse made of logs or timber are caulked with jute or linen insulation, minor defects in brick and foam concrete planes are corrected with sealants.
Treatment with antiseptics that prevent the spread of pathogenic microorganisms and fire retardants that reduce the likelihood of fire.
Installation of wooden sheathing for installation of heat insulator. The width of the lathing step is selected based on the width of the insulation (1 cm less), and the thickness of the bars is based on its thickness.
Installation of insulation. By cutting a roll of mineral wool into strips of the required width or using slabs of a certain standard size, you can ideally install the material in the wooden frame of the bathhouse - in the spacer between the guides of the sheathing.

Installation of vapor barrier. The optimal material for quickly insulating a bathhouse with your own hands is a rolled or slab mineral wool insulator with a foil layer. It’s like a “2 in 1” - a material that can significantly reduce installation time and acts as an effective heat protection and vapor barrier. If the insulation does not have a metallized coating, then it is recommended to cover it with a vapor barrier film with an overlap of at least 5 cm, for example, Ondutis R Termo - a vapor barrier with heat-saving properties that can withstand temperatures up to +120 degrees and returns 80% of the heat back into the room. After installation, all joints of the insulator are glued with foil (aluminum) tape.

We begin to understand from the very beginning: why and how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands

Many people, even having built a Russian bathhouse on their own plot, do not even imagine what all this fuss with insulation is for, we look for the best option for materials, believing that this is not at all necessary. In fact, you can, of course, completely abandon the insulation of the concrete floor in the bathhouse, as well as the wooden one, and the insulation of the walls and ceiling, but the results of such construction will definitely not please you. Moreover, there are many objective reasons for this, of which we will name only the most “loud” ones, which can be considered compelling arguments in favor of floor insulation, and not only them.

It is for these reasons that it is worth immediately, even when creating the primary project, to take into account the thermal insulation of the entire building, and first of all, the floors, although insulation always begins from the top. Moreover, you need to understand that it is through the floor that most of the heat from the steam room flows away, spoiling the entire effect and significantly reducing the therapeutic value for health. But before you figure out how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse in a washroom, you need to understand what materials exist for this, and how to use them correctly, and only after that you can start working.

Insulation of the ceiling and walls of baths and saunas

Step 1. Lathing

Sheathing bars are placed on the base of the walls and ceiling for subsequent laying of insulation between them. The thickness of the bars is selected based on the thickness of the insulation layer.

Advice. It is better to use galvanized or stainless steel screws as fasteners.

For rigid types of insulation - slabs of extruded polystyrene foam and foil polyurethane foam - lathing is not required.

Step 2. Laying insulation

Between the bars of the sheathing, mats or sheets of insulation are fixed into the spacer. In principle, materials suitable for insulating baths and saunas do not require additional fasteners due to their own elasticity. But to be sure, you can secure the insulation layer with stainless steel self-tapping screws and wide galvanized washers.

You cannot use the usual plastic dowels with a mushroom cap in the bathhouse.

If the walls and ceiling are insulated with sheets of polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam, then the joints of the sheets are additionally sealed with polyurethane foam.

Step 3. Vapor barrier

A vapor barrier made of foil or foil fiberglass is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer. It has a dual purpose - protecting the insulation from moisture and reflecting heat.

For baths and saunas there is no need to create a gap between the vapor barrier and the insulation. The foil layer should face the inside of the bathhouse. All foil joints are carefully sealed with metallized tape. The result should be a coating reminiscent of a thermos.

Step 4. Lathing for finishing

Wooden slats with a cross-section of 20x30 mm are placed on top of the foil vapor barrier under the base for future finishing. It is advisable to place the sheathing slats vertically. This will allow the condensation formed on the foil to roll down unhindered. By the way, this is why in baths and saunas lined with clapboard inside, the finishing boards are nailed horizontally.

Optimal insulation for the floor in a bathhouse: which is better and for what reasons

Extreme conditions inside the bathhouse, constant temperature changes, and significant high humidity determine the selection of all materials for insulation with special care and accuracy. It is worth understanding that the raw materials usually used for this may not be suitable, since they simply will not withstand such operating conditions. The best insulation for the floor in a bathhouse should be resistant to both one factor and another, and in addition, experts recommend choosing a material with a pronounced cellular structure, which will help it last a long time, performing all the functions that it actually provides , and are expected.

Photo from the site: eleosstroy.ru

The most popular is insulating the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay with your own hands, of course, provided that the floor is made of concrete or cement screed. This environmentally friendly, natural material is extremely lightweight and also has very enviable thermal insulation qualities and properties. Among other things, expanded clay has enviable fire-fighting properties, and it is also reliable and durable.

Photo from the site: ktovdome.ru

If you are seriously considering the best way to insulate the floor in a bathhouse, you should also pay attention to the various mineral insulation materials that are available on the market today in a wide range. Today, these are the most popular and relevant materials. Mineral wool is environmentally friendly, lightweight and it is possible to purchase foil rolls; it also does not burn at all, but it also has its drawbacks. When installing floor insulation using mineral insulation, great attention will be required to waterproofing, otherwise the entire effect will be reduced to zero.

Photo from the site: oaoplastic.ru

You can also insulate the bathhouse floor with polystyrene foam, that is, foam material that is sold in the form of slabs, weighs little, and does its job perfectly. Moreover, laying it is as easy as shelling pears, and you can even cut it with a penknife. However, it is worth knowing that when heated, this synthetic material can release aldehydes into the air, which can seriously affect human health. If you are not sure whether you can properly insulate it, then you should not use it. And the fire safety of insulating floors in a bathhouse with foam plastic and concrete can be safely questioned.

Photo from the site: donnaflora.ru

You can also qualitatively insulate a concrete floor in a bathhouse using perlite, a bulk material that also has a synthetic base, like polystyrene foam. You need to know that it is simply added to the cement-sand mortar during rough pouring. On top of such an insulating layer, a finishing coating will already be poured, which must be leveled over the surface, and only then the final finishing coating, such as boards, tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.

Photo from the site: l-spb.ru

Among other things, it is possible to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex, which also belongs to the family of foam materials, such as styrofoam or polystyrene foam, which is essentially the same thing. This is a very high-quality material that is quite strong, durable, has high thermal insulation qualities, is resistant to moisture, and its installation is simple and accessible even to those who have never dealt with anything like this before.

As for the thickness of the thermal insulating layer, everything will depend on numerous particular conditions. For example, the climate zone plays a huge role, as well as the quality of the selected material. For example, expanded clay needs to be poured in a layer of 25-30 centimeters to ensure high-quality functionality, but mineral wool and 5-10 centimeters will be quite enough. To make calculations easier, you can use the following table.

Photo from the site: banya-expert.com

The main areas in the bathhouse and the features of using the floors in them

The bathhouse is divided into several thematic areas:

Steam room.
Washing room.
Waiting room.
Rest room.

There can be even more zones, for example, sometimes a shower and sauna are added. Conversely, some sectors can be combined and reduced to two - an area for direct procedures and a locker room/rest room. Therefore, the whole question of how to cover the floor in a steam room of a bathhouse comes down, first of all, to the degree of exposure to harmful factors in a particular place.

The most extreme conditions for the floor are created in areas of high humidity and temperature, as well as from exposure to detergents. At the same time, in the waiting room these destructive factors are practically excluded. However, the proximity to the bathhouse and the street always carries excess moisture. Therefore, even here it is necessary to use special processing tools.

The main factors of material destruction are:

Heat.
High humidity.
Water.
Formation of mold and mildew.
Detergents.
Temperature changes during the cold season.

Destruction of a wooden floor in a bathhouse by rotSource ytimg.com

Bathhouse, steam room, washing room

Premises in direct contact with water and heat are exposed to the most destructive factors. Therefore, first of all, you need to know how to cover the floor in the bathhouse and steam room. As a rule, there is a special antiseptic for this. However, the effectiveness of the products used depends not only on the composition, but also on the structure and material of the floor surface.

In the steam room and washing area, the floor is made of wood or concrete. The first option has two varieties:

Pouring. It is lined with boards located at a short distance from each other. Water naturally drains down into the gaps that form during bathing procedures.
Solid. It also has a wood base, but unlike the version described above, water does not pass through the surface, but goes into the sewer system through specially equipped drains.

Shower floor in the bathhouseSource ytimg.com

The concrete floor in the bathhouse is continuous and sloped to facilitate water removal. A wooden sheathing is usually placed on top of the screed. A metal flat bowl for catchment can be additionally installed at the bottom of it. In addition, tiles made from natural or artificial materials are often laid at the final stage of finishing.

Dressing room, rest room

The steam room and washing room are only half of the bath, because in many respects the effect of the procedures depends on the correct subsequent rest

Therefore, it is also important to know what the floor in the dressing room should be like - what is best to make it from in order to provide all the necessary conditions for the relaxation room and locker room

Insulation of the floor in the dressing room with expanded claySource banyabest.ru

The floor in the dressing room is made based on how the bathhouse itself is used. If it is fully used all year round, then the floor surface must be insulated. The peculiarities of the operation of this room are that steam, splashes, dampness, and temperature contrast will also be constantly present in it. They are protected by a properly selected coating and a well-assembled structure - double flooring, insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier.

Modern heated floors in the bathhouseSource pikabu.ru

Doesn’t burn in fire and doesn’t sink in water: simple insulation of the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay

First, you need to understand what expanded clay is in order to accurately determine whether it is suitable as insulation for your structure. In fact, such expanded clay balls, familiar to everyone, are obtained by firing clay for a fairly short time, which is easy to melt. It is worth understanding that insulating a wooden floor in a bathhouse with this material is possible, but difficult, since for optimal functionality it must be laid exclusively between two layers of concrete pouring - rough and finishing. Among other things, this material not only has unique qualities, but also has a fairly low price, which makes it popular and relevant.

Simple instructions: how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay

The final drying of the solution will occur in about two weeks, when your coating can be considered suitable for use. However, work on the decorative finishing salt of the floor covering can begin 3-4 days after pouring.

Installation on joists

Insulation of the floor in a bathhouse on screw piles (or for a wooden structure on any foundation) is most often carried out between joists or beams. Unlike the previous method, here you can choose insulation with less strength, since the material does not take the load from furniture and people.

Expanded polystyrene is mounted between wooden floor joists or between floor beams. The floor pie for a wooden bath in this case looks like this:

subfloor boards (or plywood, DSP, OSB);
waterproofing;
insulation between load-bearing wooden beams;
vapor barrier;
clean floor.

The insulation is simply laid between the beams. There is no need to use glue or dowels. But it is necessary to fill the gaps between polystyrene and wood with sealant or polyurethane foam.

Proper insulation of the bathhouse will ensure a comfortable microclimate and extend the service life of the building. An increase in construction costs in this case leads to savings in operation.

Simple do-it-yourself insulation of the floor in a bathhouse with polystyrene foam

In fact, all materials intended for insulation, which have a cellular structure, as well as synthetic origin, can be combined into one. That is, how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with polystyrene foam, as well as with polystyrene foam - this is exactly the same thing. So let's understand the subtleties and nuances of this work, there is nothing complicated in it, and there cannot be anything. Most often, these materials are sold in the form of large slabs, which will need to be cut into pieces according to the required dimensions.

Brief and accessible step-by-step recommendations: insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse with polystyrene foam

Next, everything needs to be done exactly the same as in the previous version, that is, you need to throw a reinforcing mesh of metal, and pour a clean concrete screed on top of this whole “sandwich.” On top of such insulation, you can easily lay a “warm floor” system, decorate it with tiles or artificial stone, and even make removable wooden panels that can be taken outside for complete and high-quality drying.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work includes installation of a waste water drainage system and installation of a subfloor.

To install a drainage system:

We excavate the soil to a depth of 40 cm, with wall dimensions of 40x40 cm;
We concrete the bottom and walls of the tank to a thickness of 5 cm;
We connect the fan pipe with one end to the reservoir, and the other into a special septic tank;
Determine the level and location of the drain hole;
We lay the second pipe from the bathhouse to the tank.

Important! Drainage design and site markings take place before work begins. To prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room, pipes are equipped with automatic valves

Preparing the base of a concrete floor consists of the following operations:

Removing the top layer of soil and filling it with sand;

Installation of a gravel cushion with a thickness of no more than 15 cm. Gravel must be used in a coarse fraction;

Backfilling with crushed stone. The thickness of the crushed stone layer is 10 cm

Important! It is necessary to compact each layer of sand, gravel and crushed stone.

Developments of “zero” markings: From the bottom point of the door frame, set a point upward by 1 meter; From this point along the perimeter, draw lines along the walls. Use a construction or laser level; On each wall from the drawn line, lower the points down vertically exactly 1 meter

Important! The connected points are the finished floor level.

Drive nails into the corners and connect them with a cord;

Divide the room into sections no more than 2 meters wide;

Place “buns” – heaps of concrete mortar – along the boundaries of the plots;

Lubricate the guides with technical oil for subsequent removal of the beacons from the concrete;

Place the guides on concrete “buns”. Profiles, metal pipes or wooden blocks are used as guides. The guides must be aligned in height with the “zero mark”.

Fill the resulting structure with concrete 5 cm thick. To avoid stagnation of water, it is necessary to organize a slope when laying concrete in the direction of the drainage.

Preparatory work for installing a wooden floor consists of the following operations:

Laying floor joists with a slope;
Attaching boards to them. It is better to choose solid coniferous trees as a material. The type of wood for the logs and boards must be the same. If the length of the walls of the room is the same, then the lags are laid in any direction, otherwise, the lags must be laid from the wall, which is longer in length and in a transverse direction relative to the water drainage.
Install support chairs in the center of each joist to prevent them from sagging. The supports can be made of wood, concrete or brick. Brick and wooden supports rest on a concrete platform, at least 20 cm thick, reinforced with reinforced mesh. The projections of the platform beyond the boundaries of the supports are 5 cm on each side.

The concrete platform is a 40 cm depression in the ground, with backfilling and compaction of subsequent layers:

Sand 10-12 cm thick spilled with water;
Coarse crushed stone 15-20 cm thick;

To compact the layers, use vibrators or vibrating rammers.

Work on the construction of a concrete platform:

Install wooden formwork and cover the inside with waterproofing. Use roofing felt as a waterproofing material.
The first layer of concrete mixture is laid with a thickness of at least 12-14 cm;
Each layer of concrete must be compacted. Concrete is a mixture of sand, cement, fine crushed stone diluted with water. Mix bulk material in a ratio of 1:3:5. Stir the mixture until a thick consistency is obtained.
Cover with reinforcing mesh;
Pour the second layer of concrete and leave until completely dry;
We coat the concrete preparation with bitumen;
Glue a layer of rolled waterproofing.

Important! The height of the support chairs should match the height of the places on which the ends of the floor joists will rest. If a strip foundation is designed for the bathhouse, then the levels of the top of the foundation and the support tables must coincide

The lags are laid from the walls towards the water collection tank. It is necessary to make cuts in the joists with a bevel of 2-3 mm, with the exception of the outer joists.

Innovations in action: do-it-yourself insulation of the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex

Such a fairly new material as penoplex is used for insulation of baths somewhat less frequently, due to its cost. Its price is higher than expanded clay and polystyrene foam, so consumers who are not yet familiar with its unique properties are afraid to purchase such a product, and completely in vain. Moreover, due to its truly outstanding qualities, as well as environmental friendliness, penoplex is suitable even for insulating floors in a bathhouse with wooden floor structures.

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex: simple tips

In fact, everything here is exactly as simple as in the previous options we presented. However, when working with wooden structures there are some nuances. These points are worth discussing in more detail, so it's worth starting again from the beginning.

You need to know that if you were unable to create a gap to ensure ventilation, you need to lay a reinforcing mesh on top, which will “keep” the distance between the board and the insulating material.

Photo from the site: 9ban.ru

Using exactly the same method, you can use a wide variety of insulating materials, and it can be mineral wool on a foil-laminated base, or it can be simple empty glass bottles, for example, beer bottles. Craftsmen have adapted to using them, replacing industrial options; to do this, it is enough to simply place the bottles one next to the other under a layer of finishing fill, and due to the voids inside there will be a kind of air cushion, which will provide the necessary thermal insulation. It works no worse than the newfangled penoplex, which is good news.

Source

Useful tips

Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex yourself is a fairly simple task. However, beginners may often encounter minor problems during further operation. Most often, troubles are associated with insufficient calculations in matters of drainage.

A large amount of water often accumulates in the bathhouse. Moreover, this happens not only in the steam room itself, but also in the common room. To prevent the liquid from stagnating, experts recommend making a slight slope towards the drain hole at the stage of laying penoplex.

Each bathhouse requires a drainage system to remove water. The drain hole must be designed in advance and its location taken into account when insulating the floor. Before laying the polystyrene boards, a hole for the sewer is made in the desired location. To make the connection as tight as possible, use acrylic glue or bitumen mastic.

Underfloor heating system

Another option for insulating the flooring in a bathhouse is installing a heated floor system. In this case, you can choose a design based on electric heating elements or water pipes.

Such floors can not only make the floor warm, but also heat the entire room. Therefore, if they are used in a steam room, they can participate in creating the necessary environment. Their location in other rooms of the building will make it possible to move comfortably barefoot.

They are installed in the same way as other insulation materials under reinforced lattice and screed in a concrete floor and between joists under boards in a wooden floor. An important addition is the need to install heat-insulating material under the system to prevent heat loss into the ground.

Features of the use of insulation in baths

Different materials are used to construct buildings. Therefore, their features are taken into account when choosing thermal insulation for a bath in a steam room. In addition, pay attention directly to the properties of the insulation. So thermal insulation must have minimal hygroscopicity. It is better if it is not able to absorb moisture at all.

In addition, the heat insulator must be a chemically passive material. It must not emit any toxic substances and not negatively affect human health and nature. Good insulation with low thermal conductivity is also able to maintain its original shape throughout the entire period of use.

The thermal insulator must still withstand even very high temperatures. He must treat non-combustible materials. In addition, it is recommended to use moisture- and steam-resistant thermal insulation on bath structures.

One of the options for steam and moisture resistant insulation material Source vosaduly.ru

If we take into account the main criteria, then among the entire range, foil basalt insulation for a bath is the best option. The features of its installation directly depend on the design of the building and the material used for its construction.

Technology

No matter how good the material is, failure to adhere to the accuracy of the installation technology can, over time, negatively affect the quality of heat conservation.

Therefore, having prepared the necessary material, carefully study the step-by-step instructions

Frame installation

Required

foam sheets;
metal profile or wooden blocks 50x50;
film for vapor barrier.

Stages

Clean the ceiling from dirt and dust, eliminate unevenness, if any. Treat the surface with an antiseptic.
Remove electrical wiring. To do this, use a special protective corrugation.
Attach beams or a profile to the ceiling at a distance of 50 cm. Make sure that the shape of the attached beams takes on the appearance of a large cage, each cell of which should correspond in size to the foam sheet.
Install foam plastic using dowels or glue.
Treat joints and cracks with polyurethane foam.
Attach a vapor barrier layer to the insulation.
Finally, start installing drywall, wood or other material that matches the overall interior.

Adhesive mounting option

Required

sheets of foam plastic in an amount corresponding to the total area of the ceiling;
adhesive composition.

Stages

Clean the ceiling, treat it with an antiseptic and prime it for a better bond between the glue and the surface.
Prepare an adhesive composition or use a ready-made one.
Apply glue to the foam sheet (in continuous lines along the edge and in splashes in the center of the board). Press the foam sheet as firmly as possible against the ceiling and hold for a few seconds.
If you are insulating the ceiling using polystyrene foam, then all the sheets should be prepared in advance: scratch with an iron brush along the working side (the one on which you will apply the adhesive).
Start gluing the sheets from the middle of the ceiling in a checkerboard pattern.
For greater reliability, the foam sheets can be additionally attached with dowels after the glue has dried.
Glue the reinforced mesh on top of the foam and putty.

Video description

One of the options for insulating a brick bath is shown in the video:

Bathhouse made of timber

If small timber was used to construct the building, then not only the steam room in the wooden bathhouse is insulated, but also all other rooms. Complex thermal insulation is also carried out when the structure was originally built from low-quality materials.

If the timber bathhouse was built in strict compliance with the technology, then all the cracks are caulked. In addition, the wood is treated with special substances that prevent the formation of fungi and mold. In this case, to insulate a steam room, basalt wool, which has a foil coating, is usually used. Fiber insulation and foil can also be used separately.

Expanded clay concrete bath

If the structure is built from expanded clay concrete blocks, then insulation is carried out using moisture-resistant heat-insulating material. After all, the walls in this bathhouse have a porous structure. Therefore, they themselves will retain heat perfectly. However, such structures are negatively affected by high humidity.

One of the options for moisture-resistant heat insulator Source cs.petrovich.ru

For baths made of expanded clay concrete blocks, basalt wool is also often used. At the same time, a vapor barrier layer and waterproofing are laid. Additionally, it is recommended to install a ventilation system.

On a note! If a foil thermal insulator is used, the insulating layer may have a small thickness. However, in any case, it is additionally necessary to install waterproofing.

So is it worth it to insulate with polystyrene foam?

And yet, there is an opinion among experts that all the disadvantages of polystyrene foam are more far-fetched than real.

The popularity of foam sheets among developers has no equal. And if we talk about insulation as a low-cost, simple and fast process, then it is hardly possible to find a better material.

Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with polystyrene foam can be done without any problems by a non-professional, a person who has taken up repair work for the first time.

However, when buying foam boards you need to be very careful

so as not to bring a pile of small balls instead of whole sheets. Use products only from trusted manufacturers.

The construction of a bathhouse is a rather responsible process, and therefore, if you want the procedures to bring exclusively benefits to the human body, and maintaining the structure does not cause unnecessary trouble, you should approach such a matter as insulating the bathhouse as seriously as possible.

At the moment when the box is already standing and the time has come to carry out insulation, quite logical questions arise: how, and with what? This article will tell you how to competently approach this issue, as well as which material – polystyrene foam, sawdust or clay – to use for insulation.

Using polystyrene foam as insulation

Polystyrene foam is a kind of air bubbles enclosed in a thin polystyrene shell. Due to the fact that the main part of the material is air (about 98%), foam is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, which is why it is widely used as a material.

It should be noted that its popularity is justified not only by its high thermal insulation properties. There is a whole list of its positive qualities:

long service life - up to 50 years in normal conditions, up to 20 years in unfavorable conditions (with large temperature differences);
hydrophobicity. Polystyrene foam is capable of absorbing about 0.2% moisture per day, in other words, it practically does not absorb it;
biological neutrality and stability. The temperature at which this material is able not to collapse and not release any substances is from -60 0 C to +95 0 C. In addition, the safety of foam plastic is also confirmed by the fact that it is widely used for products such as food packaging for products or in children's toys;
relatively low cost of this material. However, absolutely cheap offers must be treated with caution, since such products must be accompanied by appropriate certificates. Remember that all materials the production of which was carried out in violation of the technological process can be quite dangerous;
Styrofoam is very easy to work with. It is characterized by low weight, cuts well, and also does not require additional protective equipment or devices;
There is absolutely no environment in which fungi, spores or bacteria can multiply. Not damaged by insects.

In addition to its advantages, foam plastic is characterized by the presence of disadvantages, in particular its complete impermeability to steam and air. Thus, for rooms with thermal insulation made of foam plastic, it is necessary to develop a good one.

Also, there is one more negative quality of this material: rather weak resistance to external mechanical influences. That is why, if polystyrene foam is used to insulate the foundation, additional reinforcement will be required, as well as a protective coating.

Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse using polystyrene foam?

Drawing conclusions from all of the above, it can be noted that it is allowed to use polystyrene foam as insulation, however, in the steam room of a Russian bath, as well as in the steam room of a Finnish sauna, it is strictly not recommended. Remember that the temperature conditions in these rooms are such that the completed thermal insulation can heat up to 95 0 C or even higher, and after that the foam will lose its chemical stability.

As a rule, polystyrene foam is recommended for thermal insulation of walls outside, or walls inside the room itself, but which do not go outside, since this is due to the high level of thermal insulation properties of polystyrene foam. If you install it on the wall from the inside, then the outer wall will be completely insulated from heat. In this case, condensation will form inside the wall. Thus, in cold weather it will freeze/thaw, which will lead to instant destruction of the building material. That is why, if you insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic, then it must be done exclusively from the outside, or its internal partition, but not from the side of the steam room.

Direct insulation of walls from the outside with foam plastic is characterized by fairly good reviews: in the summer the room is cool, in the winter it is warmer, material costs for maintaining a comfortable microclimate are significantly reduced. Another added benefit: the room becomes much quieter. However, a well-functioning ventilation system is very important for excellent well-being, since excess moisture does not escape through the walls.

As for the bathhouse, there is simply no need to insulate a wooden bathhouse using polystyrene foam: wood itself has good heat-insulating characteristics. If we talk about a bathhouse made of bricks or building blocks, in this case it is very possible to insulate this room using polystyrene foam.

Using clay with sawdust as insulation

Clay with sawdust is characterized by unique thermal insulation properties and is used not only as insulation, but also as waterproofing. Please note that the waterproofing and thermal insulation properties of clay, in addition to sawdust, are quite often used for arranging bathhouses. It is this material that is not subject to destruction, including the conditions of probable contact with hot steam. Not all building materials used for insulation and waterproofing can effectively cope with this factor.

The main advantage of such insulation as clay with sawdust is the ability to use this option in almost any area: both where there is a constant high temperature and where the temperature can drop to critical levels. Clay with sawdust can not only prevent heat loss in winter, but also keep it pleasantly cool in summer. Moreover, in addition to excellent thermal and waterproofing characteristics, this material is considered quite durable and also environmentally friendly. Most private developers prefer the use of clay with sawdust solely because of its safety, since not all modern building materials can be trusted for their direct use in the process of finishing the interior of a room.

However, let's note that fixing a bathhouse using clay and sawdust is far from the easiest way to insulate a room. Remember that the effectiveness of insulation with clay and sawdust is influenced by a fairly large number of factors. In particular, it should be noted that it is very important to prepare the mixture correctly, since if the proportions are violated, the finished material will not set well and thus crumble very quickly. Also, the insulation on the walls should be applied correctly in order to achieve maximum effect.

Important! Basically, clay with sawdust is used to insulate the ceiling, that is, the area that will not be subject to significant load in the future.

If it is planned, it is necessary to use material such as reeds or straw instead of small sawdust. As a rule, it is preferable to use reeds, which should be mixed with clay. The fact is that in this case, straw and reeds will serve as additional reinforcement, thereby increasing the load-bearing capacity, as well as the high level of strength of the entire insulating layer.

Let's note that insulating a bathhouse using clay and sawdust is an old, time-tested method that is characterized by highly reliable results. However, such a process is very labor-intensive, and it is quite difficult to cope with alone.

Technological process of insulating a bath using clay and sawdust

The first thing that needs to be done before laying the insulation is to treat the surface on which the installation will be carried out with cement mortar or plaster. After the base has completely hardened, you should begin laying the insulation.

If you plan to use a wet mixture, then it is recommended to make wooden formwork so that the mixture is poured into special boxes, the width of which should be approximately 1 m. In turn, which can keep the mixture from spreading, and will also form a more reliable layer of insulation.

After this, you should start pouring a thick mixture of clay mixed with sawdust. The insulation must be poured progressively, box by box, leveling the surface of each of the new fragments. After the mixture is completely poured, the surface must be completely frozen. At the moment of drying, peculiar cracks may appear, which therefore require grouting with a clay solution. This method of insulation is considered the most acceptable exclusively at the stage, since it is quite dirty. If the structure is already ready, it is recommended to use ready-made clay slabs, as well as wood waste. This will significantly reduce the risk of contamination of the surrounding surface.

Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands is very important.

To underestimate this part of the arrangement of the premises means finishing the work poorly, since then you will be haunted by two problems:

Heat loss through a floor surface with high thermal conductivity. Consequently, the cost of heating the steam room will increase significantly.
The burning contrast of the cold floor and the surrounding hot air. This is not only discomfort for your body, but also subsequent condensation, which can lead to mold and rotting of the boards.

Floors can be concrete or wood. Based on this, we will consider the most convenient ways to insulate them.

Insulation under the screed

If the bathhouse is built of brick, most likely the ceilings are made of reinforced concrete. Also, sometimes there is a need to make a floor on the ground. In this case, insulation is performed under the screed. When using this technology, the load on the insulation increases, so you should follow the following recommendations:

choose material grade PSB-S 35 (foam plastic) or EPPS 35 (penoplex);
the thickness of the screed is prescribed 30-50 mm (when using the “warm floor” system - more);
when using polystyrene foam, the screed is reinforced with wire mesh with a diameter of 3-4 mm and cells of 50 by 50 mm.

If it is necessary to insulate the floor on the ground, then the base is not only leveled, but also compacted. The floor pie in this case looks like this:

compacted soil;
sand-gravel mixture or medium-sized sand (20-30 cm);
concrete preparation from lean concrete B7.5—B12.5;
waterproofing;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
screed with reinforcing mesh.

The concrete floor consists of the following layers:

reinforced concrete slab;
waterproofing;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
screed (with or without reinforcement).

Insulation of a bathhouse begins with clearing and leveling the base. All cracks in the concrete floor must be covered with cement mortar. After this, special leveling mixtures can be used. A line is drawn on the wall to mark the finished floor. This is required in order to control evenness.

Waterproofing is placed on the prepared base. It is mounted with an overlap of 10 cm (including on walls), gluing the joints with a special film.

Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is laid on glue. The solution is applied only along the edges and to several points in the center. When purchasing glue, it is important to check that it does not contain solvents or other substances hazardous to the insulation. The slabs are installed with the seams bandaged (in a staggered manner). A gap of 1-2 cm is provided between the polystyrene and the wall, taking into account the expansion of the material during operation; this space is filled with damper tape. Before pouring the screed, the slabs are secured to the base using disc dowels.

Are polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam the same thing?

The insulation of the ceiling of a bathhouse with foam plastic can be somewhat diversified, while remaining faithful to the choice of this particular material.

You couldn't help but hear about an improved type of polystyrene foam - polystyrene foam. Essentially, these are the same plates made of capsules filled with a gaseous substance, only stronger, stronger, better.

Let's analyze the qualities of polystyrene foam

it is not as fragile as polystyrene foam; even with not very careful transportation, the corners of the polystyrene foam plate remain intact;
this material does not ignite as quickly as polystyrene foam filled with highly flammable gas;
The service life of expanded polystyrene is from 15 to 35 years, polystyrene foam is from 10 to 20.

As for the price, expanded polystyrene is only 5-10% more expensive than its “big brother”.

Advantages of using insulation material

The steam room and the entire bathhouse are insulated not only because of the cold winters. A well-insulated building will also quickly heat up from a melted stove. However, when insulating a building, it is taken into account that different building structures are thermally insulated in different ways. During this process, insulating layers are created that differ in structure.

Insulating the steam room and the entire bath allows you to:

Organize proper circulation of moisture and steam . High-quality thermal insulation of building structures will prevent the appearance of water droplets on walls, ceilings and various finishing materials. Therefore, the cladding will be less exposed to negative influences. This will reduce the likelihood of it rotting. In addition, there will be less mold and mildew to form on it. Reducing the negative impact will have a positive effect on the appearance of the finishing material. It will retain its original appearance longer.

High-quality thermal insulation allows you to increase the service life of the bathhouse finish Source tildacdn.com

Significantly reduce the amount of firewood needed to light the stove . If you use the right quality insulation for a sauna, then you will be able to heat the premises of the building faster. In this case, a significantly smaller amount of fuel will be required to light the stove structure. In addition, people will not have to wait long for the temperature in the steam room to reach the desired value.

Increase the level of comfort in all areas of the building . Thanks to high-quality insulation, people will not freeze in the dressing room and rest room. They will be able to shower in a special compartment at a comfortable ambient temperature.

Typically, insulation of a steam room in a bathhouse is done from the inside. This is a proven option for thermal insulation of building structures. Thanks to insulation, the service life of the entire structure increases. The use of high-quality thermal insulation will allow the owner to carry out repair work less frequently.

A proven insulation option is the internal thermal insulation of the steam room Source dekoriko.ru

On a note! It is always necessary to carry out additional insulation of the building structures of the bathhouse if the structure was originally built in violation of the technology. In addition, there are often incorrectly built stoves that quickly cool down. In this case, it is thermal insulation that will reduce heat loss through the walls, ceiling and floor.

What materials to use

Water will become a problem when insulating the floor. Many materials are not designed for installation in conditions of high humidity. This applies to insulation with high absorption capacity.

For example, it is not allowed to use mineral wool to perform the work. This effective insulation is able to absorb water. When wet, cotton wool stops performing its intended tasks, wrinkles, settles and loses its shape.

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam (or penoplex);
penoizol, etc.