Insulation of walls from the inside with mineral wool plus plasterboard

Main types of mineral wool

There are three such types.

Glass wool

This product is produced by melting broken glass and quartz (sand). When a molten mass is obtained, glass fibers are pulled out of it, the length of which is 15-50 mm, thickness - 5-15 microns.

Considering what this mineral wool consists of, it can be argued that this material:

chemically absolutely inert;
cannot become a medium for the development of any forms of biological life (neither microflora, nor rodents, nor insects will grow in glass wool);
not subject to rotting.

The disadvantage is the causticity and fragility of the elements that make up glass wool. When styling it, you need to work using special protective equipment, otherwise the skin will be completely irritated. Also, glass wool particles should not be allowed to get into the respiratory system or eyes.

So it is not advisable to use glass wool when arranging thermal insulation in residential premises. After all, microparticles will still be released from the laid mats and spread throughout the room. Residents will begin to inhale them along with dust particles and suffer from allergic reactions.

Slag

This mineral wool is also not suitable for thermal insulation of housing. There are many reasons that can be cited, including:

causticity and fragility of particles;
high hygroscopicity (ability to accumulate moisture);
significant shrinkage (as a result, the insulating properties of the insulator layer are lost).

And the designated material cannot be classified as absolutely environmentally friendly. It is produced from blast furnace slag. Their composition is heterogeneous; they can even show increased background radiation. In addition, steam may be highly acidic, and moisture absorption contributes to the formation of an aggressive environment. Metal elements deteriorate first.

Basalt (stone) wool

This insulation is excellent for furnishing residential premises, that is, for internal insulation of houses. This material, when compared with all others, is considered the most elastic and durable. The fibers are less brittle and therefore do not cause irritation to the mucous membranes and skin. At the same time, reducing negative qualities does not in any way reduce the insulating properties. Basalt wool has a thermal conductivity coefficient almost the same as glass wool.

A negative property of stone wool can be considered its ability to absorb moisture. However, its hygroscopicity index remains the lowest when compared with other similar compositions. Complete polymerization of the binder occurs when such a mass is produced. So this mineral wool does not pose a significant danger to human health. You just need to purchase certified products supplied by reputable manufacturers. Laying basalt wool is easy. Such mats (cords):

hold their shape well;
easily cut;
If necessary, they are fixed to the wall with glue.

List of the best materials

To insulate walls under drywall, the following types of insulation are used:

Styrofoam;
glass wool;
isolon;
basalt wool.

They differ from each other in technical indicators and pricing policies. Based on this, the choice of material should be made in advance, before work begins.

Extruded insulation

The material consists of foamed polystyrene granules. It is characterized by low density and light weight; slabs of various thicknesses can be found on sale. The material is popular because of its affordable cost, it is convenient to install even without a frame, and it is on sale almost everywhere, in most repair stores. There are also some disadvantages:

low level of sound insulation;
raw materials do not allow air to pass through and require ventilation;
fragile and unable to withstand damage;
Rodents can settle in the material, which will damage the insulation and require its dismantling and replacement.

Glass wool

The material is soft and flexible, relatively thin, which helps save space. The thermal conductivity coefficient is low, the cost is affordable. However, do not forget about the specifics of the insulation; its installation may be unsafe for health. When glass wool fibers come into contact with mucous membranes and skin, they cause a burning sensation and unbearable itching. Installation work should only be carried out using special clothing: a respirator, safety glasses and gloves. These inconveniences make the demand for glass wool not too high.

Izolon

A new type of insulation, consisting of polyethylene foamed with propane. It weighs little, has low density and contains a large number of air bubbles. This allows you to successfully retain heat in the room and increase the level of sound insulation. Its thickness is insignificant and saves useful living space. Some manufacturers produce isolon immediately with a thermal protection layer consisting of foil. If such a layer is missing, you can create it yourself by attaching construction foil to the isolon using glue.

Basalt wool

The cost is higher than glass wool and foam, but it is offset by other advantages. First of all, it is a natural material, which is created using a melt from rocks. Distinctive qualities:

natural;
does not cause allergies;
high strength;
fire resistant.

The composition includes a large number of stone fibers of small thickness. The presence of an air gap between them determines the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Another important difference from other types of mineral wool is its inability to absorb moisture, which allows it to be used even at high humidity.

Common materials for internal insulation

Not all materials are suitable for internal insulation. Insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard should have a fairly dense texture, not crumble, or cake.

The most popular:

Styrofoam . The cheapest and most successful option. Foam insulation is the most common type. Almost complete vapor tightness, rigidity, ease of processing and installation, excellent heat-saving properties of the material make it a leader among its peers.
Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), penoplex. This is the same foam, but made in a different way. The structure of these materials is a frozen foam. Complete vapor barrier and excellent heat conservation of the material would make it the best option, but the high price limits its use. Insulating walls from the inside with penoplex is very effective and allows the use of thin material.
Minvata. It is mostly suitable for external insulation, but can also be used for internal insulation. The main problem with mineral wool is its soft structure, which requires the installation of sheathing. In addition, mineral wool is a hygroscopic material that requires high-quality vapor protection.

How to properly insulate a frame house with mineral wool with your own hands

Everyone dreams of having their own country house in the Moscow region, but not many people think that a private house is far from an apartment and requires much more attention, especially if they do not build it themselves, but buy it ready-made. Heating a private house in the cold season is a difficult and expensive task, but you can significantly reduce costs by insulating the walls of a frame house yourself.

Mineral wool is an excellent popular modern insulation material

There are a lot of options on how to make your home warmer, but most often various types of mineral wool are used as insulation. Using mineral wool, you can carry out all the work yourself.

Insulation of a frame structure house is different in that the insulation is located in the center of the wall between the frame sheathing. This is how the frame structure is insulated during the construction of a newly built house. If you want to perform additional insulation of an existing building, then the insulation should be placed outside the walls of the house or inside.

Additional insulation of a frame house is carried out in two ways:

Work on the external wall with subsequent finishing, for example, siding.
Internal insulation.

External thermal insulation under siding

This is the most effective option, since the technology involves not only installing an insulating layer, but also updating the facade with materials that are not afraid of negative environmental factors and can easily withstand low temperatures. The siding is fixed on guides, which are used as a wooden beam or a metal frame.

Considering that modern mineral wool is produced in standard sizes in rolls or slabs, the guides for fastening the siding are filled in increments equal to the width of the mineral wool strip. Depending on the type of mineral wool and the walls of the structure, it is secured by shooting it with an industrial stapler or using special glue. Only mineral wool slabs are attached to glue, since they have a relatively dense structure and backing.

Note! In addition to the insulation itself, it is recommended to apply a steam and moisture-proof membrane to the walls of the house. It is mounted directly on the wall, and the insulation is already attached to it

The last stage of external insulation is the installation of siding, the individual strips of which, with the help of locks, are assembled into a single surface, which has many advantages:

Siding is immune to temperature changes.
Not afraid of moisture.
It does not require heavy structures for installation, as it is light in weight.
Does not fade in the sun.
It lasts a long time. Manufacturer's warranty for at least 15 years.

Internal thermal insulation

Insulation inside a house is much more difficult compared to outside. Not all materials can be used, as it is necessary to comply with fire safety and environmental standards. Mineral wool is a partially natural and environmentally friendly insulation material that is excellent for interior work.

The installation technology does not differ from the external one, however, the frame is sheathed not with siding, but with plasterboard or OSB panels (approximate strand boards). Thermal insulation of buildings from the inside has its disadvantages, the main of which are:

Reducing room space.
If steam and waterproofing are not installed correctly, the walls will begin to become damp, which will lead to the appearance of mold.
The base of the wall warms up worse, since the heat from inside the house does not reach it, and accordingly a freezing effect appears. Sooner or later this will lead to the destruction of the supporting structure.
It is possible that a dew point may form inside the insulation layer or directly on the wall due to impaired heat exchange.

How to insulate a frame with mineral wool

As mentioned above, a frame building can be insulated with mineral wool both outside and inside when performing additional insulation of an already built house. When building a house anew, the insulation in a frame structure is located in the middle, between the frame sheathing, and is not attached to the outer or inner surface of the wall.

About mineral wool

Internal wall insulation is less effective than external insulation, but if the latter is impossible due to some circumstances, it is a good alternative.

Insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool plus plasterboard has its advantages and disadvantages, which must be known and taken into account when performing this type of work.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

Material price
Resistance to temperature changes and various temperature conditions
High fire safety
Ease of installation
Good sound insulation
Resistance to mechanical and chemical stress
The material has low thermal conductivity

Insulation with mineral wool can be done with your own hands, at any time of the year, regardless of the weather outside the windows.

The disadvantages of this method of insulation are:

Mineral wool absorbs moisture, which over time destroys it and leads to rotting
Along with insulation, it is necessary to carry out a vapor barrier to avoid condensation and the appearance of fungus and mold.
After some time, mineral wool shrinks

Important: If every centimeter of space in the house is valuable to you, then it is better to insulate the facade, since internal insulation can take up to a whole square meter from the area of the room. Mineral wool has been used in construction for a long time; it is made from natural fibers, is an environmentally friendly material and perfectly retains heat in buildings.

Mineral wool has been used in construction for a long time; it is made from natural fibers, is an environmentally friendly material and perfectly retains heat in buildings.

There are three types of mineral wool depending on the purpose of its use:

Easy

It is used for insulation of frame buildings, has a density of 10-90 kg per cubic meter.

It is used to insulate building facades; its density is 90 kg per cubic meter.

They mainly insulate technical buildings and industrial equipment where the air temperature is high or low.

If you classify mineral wool by composition, it is as follows:

Very common and economically priced. It is made by melting sand or broken glass into a thin fiber, to which binders are added, turning the material yellow.

Glass wool

It is based on the raw materials that are used to make glass; even cullet and glass production waste are used. Dimensions of insulation fibers: length – 14-50 mm, thickness – 4-15 microns. Thermal conductivity – 0.028-0.052 W/m K. Operating temperature from -60 °C to +500 °C.

Slag

The raw material is blast furnace slag. Fiber sizes: length – 15-16 mm, thickness – 4-13 microns. Thermal conductivity – 0.45-0.48 W/m K. Maximum heating temperature up to +300 °C. This species is very hygroscopic.

Experts warn that slag wool should not be used on metal surfaces. The thing is that residual acidity is always present in slags. When interacting with moisture, the acid begins to corrode the metal.

Stone wool

This is the most common type in this category. And when it comes to mineral wool, it means stone wool. Therefore, in what follows we will not distinguish between these two concepts.

So, let's start with the fact that mineral wool is made from different types of stone. Therefore, it has different characteristics in terms of density and thermal conductivity. If the insulation is made of limestone, dolomite, and so on, that is, non-solid rocks, then the thermal conductivity can vary from 0.077 to 0.12 W/m K. If the insulation is made of basalt (diabase or gabbro), then the thermal conductivity of such a material is 0.03 -0.05 W/m K.

At the same time, soft rocks contain many impurities in their structure, which means that the fibers are weakly connected to each other. Therefore, more formaldehyde is added to them during the production process. Such materials can withstand temperatures up to +600 °C. Basalt mineral wool up to +1000 °C. Stone wool today is sold in mats (blocks), in rolls and in loose form.

Selecting the type of wool

Mineral wool has been used as a building material for quite some time. It is made from basalt fibers. The material is environmentally friendly and perfectly retains heat inside a home made of wood or brick.

Types of mineral wool:

By type of use:

lightweight - with a density of 10-90 kilograms per cubic meter. Suitable for use in insulating frame houses;
heavy - with a density of about 90 kilograms per cubic meter. used for facade insulation of buildings;
technical - serves as an insulator for premises and equipment for industrial purposes. Can withstand both high and low temperatures.

By composition:

Glass wool is a product of melting quartz sand or broken glass. It consists of the finest fibers interconnected by special substances that give the material the yellow tint that we are used to seeing. The material is not flammable and is not able to absorb moisture and its vapor.
Slag wool - products are produced by processing industrial waste. For residential premises, insulation with this type of wool may be unsafe, since the environmental friendliness of the material is at a low level.
Basalt wool is highly in demand for home insulation. Has an increased thermal conductivity coefficient.
Stone wool is the most high-tech product. It may be the best choice when insulating residential buildings, since it is almost free of the disadvantages inherent in other materials under consideration.

Installation of insulation under drywall

Since the insulation for plasterboard partitions will have to be covered with sheets, for this it is necessary to first create a frame base. It must be made from aluminum profile CD60 or UD28. You must first apply markings to the base. Vertical lines mark the location of the racks. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the drywall sheet. It is also worth immediately determining the joining location of the plasterboard profiles.

After this, you can begin the most important stage - laying the insulation. Before such work, you should prepare glue for cotton wool. It must be diluted in accordance with the instructions on the package. The mixture should have a uniform consistency.

Next, the glue is applied to the slab using a spatula, and mineral wool is applied to the wall between the frame posts. If the mixture is squeezed out from under the cotton wool, it should be removed immediately. It is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates.

The cotton wool must be tied together, just like a brick. After installation is completed, the surface must be checked. If there are places left unfilled with cotton wool, then they are caulked.

After such work, you need to give time for the glue to dry and set. This may take 15-20 hours. Then you can begin installing drywall. Difficulties usually do not arise at this stage, since everything is prepared for work in advance.

Precautions when working with material

I’ll tell you about precautions when working with mineral wool insulation. Since this material is cheaper than others, it is used very often

Expanded polystyrene is also often used for insulation. Often, mineral insulation for walls is more dangerous.

Personal protection. First of all, before work, it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and body as much as possible from the possibility of dust from fibers getting on it. The fibers cause irritation and itching. If dust is inhaled or gets on exposed areas of the body, rinse thoroughly with water. For work you need to use protective overalls, a respirator, a mask, gloves;
All cutting and grinding work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area;
Storing and consuming food and various drinks in a room where construction work is being carried out is strictly prohibited;
Upon completion of work, you must immediately take a shower (preferably cold). Change into clean clothes. If after all the procedures the itching does not disappear completely, do not be upset, this short-term feeling will pass in a few hours.

Technology of thermal insulation of walls with plasterboard from the inside

The technology of insulating the walls of a room with plasterboard from the inside does not require special training of workers or expensive equipment. General construction skills and a universal tool are enough.

Tools and materials

During the work you will need:

guides (metal profiles or wooden bars);
gypsum boards;
insulation in slabs or rolls;
double sided tape;
vapor barrier membrane;
screws, dowels and other fasteners;
anti-mold agents;
putty;
drill;
screwdriver;
hand tool.

The floor in the room must be cleared of debris and foreign objects.

Design

At this stage, the type of insulation, gypsum board and guides is selected.

If you are insulating a kitchen or bathroom, you should choose moisture-resistant plasterboard. For the boiler room, it is recommended to use fire-resistant.

Wooden guides are cheaper, but they are at risk of drying out and deforming in the event of temperature changes. The metal profile does not have such disadvantages. The number of guides is calculated based on a standard step of 60 cm.

When calculating the volume of materials purchased, a 5% reserve should be made in case of damage to gypsum boards and for cutting complex elements of walls and ceilings.

Stages of work execution

At the first stage, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work:

clean the walls from dirt and mortar drips;
dismantle all protruding objects: fasteners, remnants of fittings, sockets, lamps, etc.;
fill all cracks and irregularities;
treat with a composition against fungus and mold;
dry the surface.

Next, marking work begins. Use a plumb line or a laser rangefinder and a chop cord

special attention should be paid to:

parallelism of the marking of the mounting points of the guides;
marking in corners and junctions of building structures: arches, window and door openings, columns, bay windows, ceiling beams.

After marking, they proceed to the installation of frame guides.

The starting profile is glued to the floor using double-sided tape; the adhesive tape will improve sound insulation and protect against drafts;
vertical profiles are attached to the starting strip with metal screws, and to the wall with screws on dowels.

The process of insulating walls with plasterboard.
A very important stage is laying insulation into the guides. The quality of insulation will directly depend on the accuracy of the work:

insulation sheets are placed in the guides from bottom to top;
they should fit between the profiles without gaps, with some effort;
the sheets are additionally attached to the wall with adhesive or disc-shaped dowels;
All cracks and gaps must be tightly filled with scraps of material or sealed with foam.

Now it's time to install a vapor barrier:

penofol is mounted with foil inside the room;
The vapor barrier membrane is attached with the rough side inward; double-sided tape is used for installation.

And the final stage is the installation of drywall sheets. They are mounted horizontally, from bottom to top. Before screwing the sheet to the guides, you need to use markings and a level to make sure that it is positioned strictly horizontally. After the first layer is secured along all the guides, the next one is installed on top of it. Here you also need to ensure that the position is horizontal and that the gaps between the sheets are minimal.

As a rule, the size of the room does not allow installing only whole sheets of drywall. Pieces have to be mounted in corners and under the ceiling. Drywall should be cut on the floor, in a horizontal position, on a flat surface. It is enough to cut through the top layer of paper with a mounting knife. Now the cut piece can be broken off along the cut line.

Upon completion of installation, all joints between the sheets should be thoroughly puttied. After the composition has dried, it is leveled with fine sandpaper, achieving a completely flat surface of the wall or ceiling.

Now the surface of the insulated wall is ready for final finishing. Two main types are used:

wallpaper;
water-based paint.

When insulating rooms with high humidity with plasterboard, moisture-resistant types of plasterboard with special hydrophobic and antifungal impregnations are used. These panels are easy to distinguish: they are painted green. In wet rooms it is also necessary to arrange supply and exhaust ventilation to prevent air stagnation and mold formation.

Insulation of wooden floors along logs

This is the most common method of insulating a wooden floor. It is simple and yet quite effective, eliminating significant heat loss. This method is especially relevant for floors that are located close to the ground (first floors, plinths).

The technology of floor insulation using joists is implemented in this way. The first step is to install wooden logs with a T-shaped cut into the log house or onto the foundation in increments of 0.6-1 m. After this, boards or panels are fixed on which the insulation will be laid. Shields (boards) must be hemmed from below or secured to special cranial bars. Next, insulation is placed on the flooring.

The next stage is the installation of a vapor and waterproofing layer. This layer is only needed when a certain type of insulation is used. For example, protection from moisture and vapor is required when using ecowool or mineral wool. Vapor barrier sheets must be overlapped by 100-150 mm, and its edges in height must be bent up to 100 mm. As a vapor barrier, ordinary polyethylene film and other special materials are used.

The final stage is installing the floorboards on the floor and finishing the floor covering.

Thermal insulation of the floor on the first floors can also be carried out using joists installed on brick columns. That is, the logs are mounted on a brick column on a wooden spacer. Insulation boards (foam plastic, fiberglass, mineral wool, etc.) are installed between them, which are protected by a layer of vapor barrier.

The main advantage of thermal insulation of a wooden floor along joists is the ease of work, which any home craftsman can handle. And at the same time, the effectiveness of this method is quite high. In addition, this method assumes that there is no mechanical load on the insulation, so any heat-insulating material can be used.

The construction of a wooden floor on joists can be viewed in the video below.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=pvlhnnChkUg

Selection of internal insulation

Let's talk about insulation under plasterboard sheets. There are mainly three types of insulating materials that are well suited for this purpose. This includes:

basalt wool;
glass wool;
Styrofoam.

How long will the insulation last?

The service life of insulation depends on its type.
Cheap materials are on average suitable for use for 20-30 years. Some expensive brands have a service life of up to 50 years in their technical specifications (but this is not always tested in practice). Over time, the substance ages, the structure of the material is destroyed, it dries out or cakes, and loses more than 1/3 of its thermal insulation properties. Most types of insulation are recommended to be replaced at least every 35 years.

To create a healthy, favorable microclimate in the house, you can independently carry out the work of insulating the internal walls. For this purpose, lightweight, easy-to-install materials are used. With their help, you can make high-quality wall repairs with your own hands, even without professional training, using tools available in everyday life.

Sources

https://rusolymp.ru/raznoe/yteplenie-sten-iznytri-minvatoi-tehnologiia-i-poleznye-sovety
https://expert-dacha.pro/stroitelstvo/steny/uteplenie-st/minvata-plyus-gipsokarton.html
https://UznayoRemonte.ru/remont/stenyi/uteplenie-sten-iznutri-minvatoj-plyus-gipsokarton/
https://iv-proect.ru/steny/uteplenie-sten-iznutri-minvatoj-plyus-gipsokarton.html
https://ProUteplenie.com/steny/uteplenie-pod-gipsokartonom
https://ProUteplenie.com/steny/iznutri-minvatoy
https://stroitelstvo.guru/kak-uteplit-steny-iznutri-minvatoj-plyus-gipsokarton/
https://obustroeno.com/stroitelstvo/elementy-konstrukcii/steny/90184-uteplenie-sten-iznutri-minvatoj-plyus-gipsokarton
https://tutknow.ru/building/uteplenie/6563-uteplenie-sten-iznutri-minvatoy.html
https://otdelkasten.com/gipsokarton/uteplenie-sten-vnutri-pod-gipsokartonom

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Insulation of walls with mineral wool from the inside under plasterboard

Mineral wool in any form - in rolls or slabs - needs a coating on top. It has high vapor permeability, so it is recommended to leave a ventilated gap between the ceiling and the insulation to remove moisture.

The most common material for covering mineral wool insulation indoors has become plasterboard.

Drywall is sheets of special gypsum dough sandwiched between layers of paper or cardboard. This material is environmentally safe, non-flammable and non-toxic.

Different types of drywall are suitable for any room. With its help, you can create perfectly smooth surfaces, organize sound and heat insulation, hide electrical wiring or other communications. How to cover walls with plasterboard, making the most of its advantages, can be read here.

If you choose to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus plasterboard, then you need to know the following. It is necessary to choose the right not only insulation, but also drywall. If ordinary drywall is suitable for residential premises, then when insulating a kitchen or bathroom it is moisture resistant. For wall cladding, plasterboard with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm is used.

At the same time, it is important to provide high-quality protection for the wall from steam penetration from the inside. For this, a vapor barrier film is used, which is laid on top of the insulation layer.

In this case, it is very important to achieve the tightness of the vapor barrier: the film is laid overlapping, the joints are taped.

The fastening points are covered with tape or coated with putty. Then steam from the room will not penetrate the insulation, which, when wet, loses its heat-insulating properties. As a vapor barrier film, you can use ordinary polyethylene or foil film.

When insulating with mineral wool under drywall, the ventilated facade method is used.

It consists in the fact that a gap of 2-5 cm is left between the insulation, covered with a vapor-proof film, and the drywall. Air moves freely through it, which leads to the evaporation of settled moisture and ensures the dryness of the wall.

After preparing the wall for insulation, a frame of wooden slats or metal profiles is installed on it. Mineral wool slabs are laid between them, which should be slightly larger than the cell size for more dense installation.

After the entire wall is covered with insulation, a vapor barrier film is laid on top. The gap between the insulation and the drywall is achieved by means of counter-battens, which are placed on top of the frame. After the drywall has been attached, carefully seal the joints. And the surface is ready for finishing.

Mistakes made when insulating

In order for the insulation of the walls of the house, from the inside, done with your own hands with mineral wool, which will be covered with plasterboard on top, to last as long as possible, it is important to avoid common mistakes:

an attempt to save money when purchasing thermal insulation material from little-known manufacturers;
non-compliance with the sequence of thermal insulation work;
laying mineral wool with various types of defects;
there are gaps between adjacent sheets of material;
improperly equipped vapor barrier or its complete absence.

It often happens that while doing the work with his own hands, the homeowner forgets to install sockets or a switch in the drywall . If you carry out installation work on installing electrical products after fixing the drywall, you can significantly damage the insulation. Therefore, this procedure must be performed in advance.

As you can see, insulating mineral wool under drywall is not the most difficult process; the main thing is not to forget about high-quality vapor barrier and distribute the mineral wool in an even layer from the inside over the entire surface of the walls. This procedure will keep the house warm and prevent the formation of drafts and other troubles.

Lathing under mineral wool and drywall - features and installation

Traditionally, you can create a partition sheathing for attaching drywall from two materials:

wooden slats;
galvanized profile.

The wooden frame is distinguished by its massive, bulky design. Before installation, wooden slats are treated with an antiseptic to prevent the possibility of rotting.

When installing drywall, it is more advisable to use special galvanized profiles.

They are designed to be attached to each other, in addition, they are provided with mechanisms for attaching to walls - brackets, with which you can adjust the thickness of the partition.

A brief diagram of the installation of lathing for gypsum boards can be presented as follows:

The thickness of the partition is determined depending on the selected thickness of the insulation;
a guide profile is attached to the sides of the vertical adjacent walls, along the floor and ceiling;
the edge from which the plasterboard sheets will be installed is determined;
Considering the width of the sheets is 120 cm, markings are made every 40 (or 60) centimeters;
U-shaped brackets are attached along the markings at intervals of 50 cm;
the supporting posts are inserted into the guide profile in accordance with the markings;
using a stretched string, level the supporting posts and secure them with brackets;
Transverse posts are attached to the load-bearing posts to ensure structural rigidity;

Mineral wool lathing

Insulation is laid under the resulting plane.

Note to the average person

Residents of problem apartments quite often have questions related to one way or another to the use of mineral wool or the need for its use. We will answer some of them, the most significant ones, right away:

Condensation and dampness are visible on the wall. There are cases when, in a fairly well-heated room, condensation accumulates on the walls or dampness, or even mold, appears. Of course, the cause may be a leak, in which case it must be detected and repaired. But what if a thorough examination does not reveal such a defect, but the walls remain wet? Definitely, this is condensation that forms as a result of a significant difference in temperature in the apartment and outside, that is, the wall does not protect the room well enough from the outside cold. Conclusion - the wall surface should be insulated.
But how to avoid the appearance of dampness on the wall? After all, these are not wet clothes that you just need to hang out to dry and iron them after a couple of hours! In order to avoid negative manifestations of dampness and mold, it is necessary to use insulation with foil. After some time, the dampness will disappear on its own, since there will be no temperature difference.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to equip an additional switch or socket on an insulated wall. In order to have something to attach these electrical devices to, you need to install a socket box on the drywall, for which you need to make a hole of the required size in it. A cutter selected according to the diameter of the socket box is best suited for this. Drilling should be done very carefully, because if you do not calculate it correctly, the cutter will go deeper into the wall and wind up a certain amount of cotton wool, which will disrupt the insulation and sound insulation on some part of the wall. In order to avoid such undesirable consequences, it is better not to drill through the cut piece of drywall, but to continue the final part of the work with a knife or hammer, with which the sawed circle can be easily knocked out

It is guaranteed that you can avoid manifestations of dampness and mold if, at the initial stage of repair, you use penofol insulation material, which will protect your room from this negativity.

Useful tips and nuances of internal insulation

If possible, it is advisable to carry out insulation from the outside, as this is most effective. In addition, this allows you to neutralize the harmful effects of cold on the walls. Naturally, this does not apply to wooden buildings, where it is necessary to lay a thermal insulation layer both inside and outside the room.

Experts recommend that before installation work, a calculation of the thermal characteristics of the building is carried out, thanks to which it is possible to correctly select the thickness and characteristics of the insulation. Even when individual sections of the walls freeze, they provide thermal insulation around the perimeter of the entire room. If the building has high humidity, then foil insulation is used.

When doing all the work with your own hands in a brick or wooden building, it is important to ensure that the markings are applied correctly. The rolled insulation must be opened in advance so that the mineral wool takes on its original dimensions.

If glass wool is used as insulation, then all work on its installation is carried out only with the use of protective equipment. You cannot proceed to the main work until the fungus and mold, as well as other damage to the walls, have been eliminated in the room.

Many experts also recommend laying insulation under the metal profile or using polyurethane foam. Mineral wool must be properly leveled so that it acquires its natural position without dents, deflections or waves. In the case of multi-layer laying of thermal insulation, the seams should not be allowed to coincide.

Insulation without frame

Insulating walls with plasterboard from the inside is not always possible with the assembly of the frame. You can carry out insulation without a base.

Initially, the walls are prepared for fastening insulation sheets. All fragile areas are restored, and surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.

Application of antiseptic

Polystyrene foam or cotton wool is attached as in the previous version, that is, an adhesive mixture and plastic dowel nails.

Sheets of plasterboard are mounted using a gypsum mounting mixture of the “perlfix” type. The glue is prepared by adding water and thoroughly mixing with a mixer. The mounting mixture is applied pointwise to the surface of the plasterboard, and the material is pressed against the insulated wall. Additionally, fixation is provided with self-tapping screws.

Insulation of walls without installing a frame made of profiles

However, this method of covering with plasterboard with insulation should be used only as a last resort. The presence of a frame base ensures a higher level of structural reliability, despite various influences: humidity, tension and other loads.

Wall thermal insulation technology

Insulating walls with plasterboard is very widespread, so the technology is well established. Carrying out work with drywall on your own is quite problematic; you will need a second person, as well as certain skills and, of course, special tools. But if you wish, if you prepare everything correctly and call an assistant, you can do the work yourself.

1. Procurement of tools and materials

Need to purchase:

the drywall itself;
materials for the frame (metal or wooden slats);
insulation;
self-adhesive tape;
fasteners (screws and dowels);
vapor barrier film;
putty;
antifungal liquid

2. Preparing the walls

The process includes:

surface cleaning;
putty of cracks;
drying with a hair dryer or heater;
removing traces of mold and mildew;
It may be necessary to treat the walls with a special waterproofing putty to prevent possible dampness. In this case, the first layer is applied vertically, the second horizontally.

3. Marking walls for frame assembly

This is done using a level and plumb line.

4. Frame installation

Still, a metal frame is more technologically advanced than a wooden one. Self-adhesive tape is glued to the profile attached to the floor, which improves sound insulation.

5. Fastening the insulation

The thermal insulation layer is attached tightly, without gaps. You can glue it to the wall with special glue or use the “umbrellas” used to attach foam plastic.

6. Vapor barrier device

If penofol is used, you need to make sure that the foil side of the material is facing inside the room.

If the insulation of walls under plasterboard is provided with a vapor barrier material with a rough surface, then the uneven side should face inward. It serves to trap moisture with its further retention on the fleecy surface. By ventilating the structure, excess liquid is removed.

7. Installing drywall

8. Processing of joints

Putty is applied to the joints of plasterboard sheets, reinforced with a special plaster mesh - “serpyanka”. If several layers are applied, you need to wait until the previous layer dries.

9. Decorative finishing. Painting or wallpapering

Vapor barrier in different rooms

There are different levels of moisture evaporation in the bathroom, bedroom or kitchen. Therefore, you should consider how to install the vapor barrier material on the frame.

Step-by-step process of waterproofing a bathroom

In the bathroom

Watch the video: waterproofing in the bathroom.

When working in the bathroom, the sequence of actions is as follows:

First, the frame of the selected type is installed.
Then a heat-insulating layer of material is mounted into the frame (if provided).
After this comes the moment of fixing the vapor barrier layer into the frame structure.
Depending on the selected material (vapor barrier film or membrane film), the sheets are secured either with a profile or immediately fixed with a sheet of plasterboard. When installing vapor barrier material on the surface, you should be extremely careful. It is necessary to check that there are no cracks or gaps between the sheets.

The installation of vapor barrier material in other rooms is carried out in the same way.

It is preferable to opt for waterproofing the bathroom using mastic.

Necessary places for waterproofing in the bathroom

In wooden houses

There are some differences in the process when installing a vapor barrier layer in a wooden house. Plasterboard coverings are popular in wooden houses. The main thing is to adhere to the process technology in order to do everything correctly.

Vapor barrier in a wooden house under a wooden frame

The wooden facade of the house is prone to corrosion and fungi. Therefore, it is best to install a vapor barrier coating on both sides of the insulation so that moisture and dampness coming from the wood do not reach the surface of the plasterboard sheets. To do this, you can first fix the vapor barrier sheets on both sides before installing the insulation into the frame. This will remove excess moisture from the surface of the drywall and wood.

Vapor barrier in a wooden house under a metal frame

It is not difficult to install vapor barrier material under plasterboard floors. The main thing is to weigh the important nuances and decide what materials you need to buy and which installation option is most relevant.

Selecting raw materials to provide vapor barrier properties is a fairly simple task.

The main thing is to decide what goals are set, and you also need to pay attention to the cost of the material. A narrow selection of vapor barrier materials prevents you from getting lost in a multitude of ideas

Watch the video: attaching a vapor barrier in the attic under a metal profile and to aerated concrete walls.

Varieties of mineral wool

Mineral wool is the general name for a thermal insulator, indicating its origin. But, there are several types of products that differ from each other. They are:

Glass wool. It has been used for a long time, but with the advent of new analogues, it is losing relevance

When working, it is important to protect the respiratory tract, mucous membranes and skin, since the insulation releases small particles of glass. Slag

Made from blast furnace slag. Rarely used in private housing construction. Suitable for non-residential premises, warehouses or temporary structures. Capable of oxidizing metal and strongly absorbing moisture. Stone wool. It is made by melting rocks (gabbro-basalt). Suitable for both insulation of facades and thermal insulation inside. Basalt wool. They prefer to insulate a house with mineral wool using this particular heat insulator. In all respects, basalt materials are better and of higher quality, they have a longer service life, and are easy to work with.

If you need to insulate a frame house using mineral wool, then the scheme involves the use of basalt wool

It is dense, does not shrink and does not burn, which is important for safety reasons.

Features of mineral wool as insulation

Today, there are several types of mineral wool and therefore you need to correctly approach the issue of choosing a suitable material for insulating walls under drywall. Such thermal insulation can be made from rock or waste from the glass industry. These distinctive features affect the cost of the finished product. both in mats and in rolls, is considered optimal for internal wall insulation .
In this case, you can always choose the appropriate thickness of the material. Mineral-based insulation has a high degree of thermal and sound insulation and is very easy to use. Mineral wool is very flexible and does not contain harmful carcinogens, unlike glass wool, when working with which you need to protect the respiratory tract and exposed skin. To do this, you need to wear a respirator and rubber gloves, limiting direct contact with the material.

Step-by-step work on insulating walls with mineral wool from the inside

Let's say the owner of the house decided to install mineral wool thermal insulation inside the rooms and cover this structure with plasterboard. Then he should not violate the technology, but perform the work in the order indicated below.

Stage one. All previous decorative coverings are removed from the wall. It can be:

wallpaper;
dye;
decorative plaster.

You will need to get either to a reliable plaster coating or to the wall base. You can clean the wall in different ways. It is best to soak decorative plaster and wallpaper at first, so that these coatings can then be removed without difficulty. But you will have to tinker with the paint. First, it is heated with a hair dryer, after which it is removed with a spatula. You can wash off the dye using a solvent. Sometimes it is advisable to do mechanical cleaning if you have an electric hand-held machine.

Stage two. When the wall is cleaned, and dust and all kinds of small particles of construction debris are removed, all surface flaws will be revealed. It will be necessary to “treat” her. You may find:

mold colonies;
cracks;
deep recesses.

To treat such a surface, deep penetration soil with antiseptic additives is used.

Stage three. Need to do some marking. Vertical lines are marked on the insulated wall. Guides are installed along them to further mount the frame for drywall. Between these lines there should be a distance of 40 cm or 60 cm, because it will be easier to attach gypsum board sheets, the width of which is 120 cm. The lines are planned to be positioned in such a way that adjacent sheets of drywall are joined along them.

Stage four. Lines are broken:

on the ceiling;
on the floor;
on adjacent walls.

Marking the ceiling for the starting profile

Along these lines, the frame under the drywall will subsequently be installed. How accurately the lines on the floor and ceiling are drawn will need to be checked using a plumb line. On the side walls, vertical lines should connect them.

Along these lines, guide profiles (PN 28/27) can be mounted at the same time. Next, you will need to install vertical racks in it.

Fastening the guide profile

Stage five. You need to attach straight hangers to the wall. Their location should correspond to the axis of the broken vertical lines. These hangers are installed at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. And the perforated side strips will need to be bent perpendicular to the wall.

Profile hangers for plasterboard

Stage six. Basalt mineral wool slabs are laid. It is best, as already mentioned, to attach the slabs with special glue. The adhesive mass is diluted with water and brought to the desired consistency, as indicated in the instructions.

Stage seven. It is necessary to first try on each slab to the place where it will be installed. Where necessary, you will have to make cuts so that perpendicularly bent perforated strips of direct hangers can then pass along them.

Stage eight. Glue is applied around the perimeter of each slab, and in the center you can apply it in slides. However, if the wall is pre-leveled very well, then it is easier to apply the glue with a notched trowel. Ridges 1 cm high spread out, evenly covering the entire area of the slab.

Applying an adhesive composition to a mineral wool slab

Stage nine. The adhesive composition has been applied. Now you can “prick” the slab onto the hangers, passing it through the cut slots. Next, you will need to press it tightly against the wall, with its entire surface. And those excess glue that protrudes on the sides are immediately removed.

The slabs should be laid without gaps, that is, they should fit one another quite tightly.

Stage ten. The frame is mounted. Vertical posts are cut to the required sizes. Their ends are placed in control profiles. After this, using fasteners (preferably self-tapping screws), they are attached to the profiles and to the perforated strips of direct hangers that protrude through the mineral wool. When the racks are fixed, the planks will need to be bent to the sides and pressed into the mineral wool.

The wall is covered with insulation

Stage eleven. A vapor barrier is formed. The membrane is attached to the frame controls. It is enough to use double-sided tape. If the frame is wooden, fastening is done with staplers.

The final stage. After installing the vapor barrier layer, you can begin installing drywall. Next comes decorative finishing.

Prices for mineral wool

Video: How to properly insulate walls with mineral wool and plasterboard:

Calculate the insulation of your home

The required amount of mineral wool is not selected at random, but taking into account the weather conditions of a particular region.

In the Moscow and Leningrad regions, for example, the climate is temperate and continental. Here it is recommended to insulate the house with mineral wool slabs with a thickness of 8 to 10 cm. The further north you are from these places, the greater this figure will be. In the Murmansk region, the optimal thickness of wool for wall insulation will be about 15 cm.

A material whose density is less than 40 kg/cubic meter is used exclusively on horizontal surfaces that are not subject to load (this is the kind of mineral wool that is usually produced in the form of rolls).

For insulation of external walls, the density is in the range of 50–75, and for creating a ventilated facade - all 110, and even more if the surface is still covered with plaster.

Mineral wool, what is it?

Mineral wool is a fibrous or layered material based on mineral raw materials. Hence the name. There are three types in this category:

glass wool;
slag;
stone wool.

Glass wool

Slag

Experts warn that slag wool should not be used on metal surfaces. The thing is that residual acidity is always present in slags. When interacting with moisture, the acid begins to corrode the metal.

Stone wool

This is the most common type in this category. And when it comes to mineral wool, it means stone wool. Therefore, in what follows we will not distinguish between these two concepts.

How to choose stone wool?

Before purchasing stone wool, you need to find out the amount of material needed and calculate the load that will be placed on the insulation.

We have already said that the prices are high, but you can still save money. The cost will be influenced by the following factors:

Density of wool;
Manufacturer;
Binder and rock category;
The presence of another layer of coating;
Quantity purchased.

When purchasing, be sure to look at the instructions; they usually indicate the scope of use of stone wool and its technical characteristics. The most proven ones are TechnoNIKOL and Rockwool. The last company is located in Denmark; insulation materials from this country are of the highest quality, since strict certification bodies operate there.

When choosing, check with the seller how the fibers are arranged: horizontally, vertically or in a chaotic order. The first two types prevent the material from deforming, and the latter provides good heat and sound insulation.

Depending on the density, stone wool is usually divided into categories. Stone wool: wall slabs:

Brand P-75. Suitable for horizontal internal surfaces that are not exposed to load, for insulating pipelines.
Insulation for walls is wool grade P-125. Suitable for both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is ideal for insulating ceilings, floors and the inside of walls.
PZh-175. Stone insulation for walls made of metal profiled sheets or reinforced concrete.
Insulation wool PPZh-200. The hardest stone wool. This type is used in engineering buildings, protecting them from fire.

Which mineral wool is best for wall insulation?

Insulating a house with stone wool begins with choosing a manufacturer.

Rockwool “ROCKWOOL” is popular both in the domestic and foreign markets. It has the following distinctive characteristics:

Good level of strength;
Mineral wool for wall insulation lasts from 15 years;
The fibers are arranged in a chaotic manner;
Helps save electricity, as the manufacturer claims;
An additional layer that increases moisture resistance.

Stone wool "TechnoNIKOL".

Produced only on the basis of basalt rocks;
Additional layer for noise reduction;
Light weight, making work easier.

Insulation for walls stone wool "URSA":

Special packaging will make it easy to transport and work with the material;
Does not contain formaldehyde resins, therefore it is recommended for schools, hospitals, etc.

Tips for choosing

Buying a truly high-quality product can sometimes be difficult. Therefore, you need to know some important points.

Pay attention to where and how the cotton wool is stored. Most often, it is stored in its original packaging and wrapped in shrink film.

Make sure there are no holes or cuts on the packaging. The cotton wool should not be in the open air, but under a canopy. If stone wool is packaged in cardboard boxes (they usually contain expensive insulation materials), then its storage location must be protected from moisture. Even after getting a little wet it will be unusable. Purchase goods only from trusted sellers. Give preference to those stores that are located closer to you - this will reduce the cost of delivery.

Costs of raw materials and services

Material costs are determined by the insulation area and depend on the size and cost of the slabs. With a total insulation area of 109.9 m2, a thickness of the slab layer of 0.1 m, the volume of the heat insulator will be 11 m3.

Since most insulation is sold in m3, knowing its cost, you can determine the total cost of purchasing slabs:

Basalt wool, 1500 rub/m3, total 16500 rub.
Mineral wool, 1070 rubles/m3, total 11770 rubles.
TechnoNIKOL basalt wool, 2270 rub./m3, total 24970 rub.
Glass wool Isover Warm House, 1250 RUR/m3, total 13740 RUR.
Stone wool Mat Teploroll, 1280 RUR/m3, total 14080 RUR.
Slag wool, 860 rub./m3, total 9640 rub.
Ursa GEO Facade, 975 rub./m3, total 10,725 rub.

Average prices by region of Russia for thermal insulation of brick walls:

thermal insulation with mineral wool on glue, 360 RUR/m2;
fiberglass reinforcement and glue treatment, 410 RUR/m2;
primer work, 60 rub./m2;
performing decorative plaster, 380 RUR/m2;
thermal insulation with mineral wool on a wooden frame, 870 rub./m2.

If you are interested in how and with what you can insulate brick walls from the inside and outside, take a look at this section.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of frame houses

One of the key aspects of residential thermal insulation is ceiling insulation. As a rule, this stage is carried out while the roof is not yet assembled, since nothing should interfere with laying mineral wool on top of the ceiling.

The vapor barrier film is attached to the ceiling beams. Then a board, plywood or OSB board, the thickness of which is 2.5 cm, is nailed onto the film. The insulation is fastened to the plywood, according to the same principle as when insulating other structures. Mineral wool must be laid across the entire width of the ceiling, taking into account the overlap of the width of the walls.

If the attic is not used for living, there is no need to install membrane film. For cladding, you can use plywood or a regular board. If it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from above, then internal insulation should be performed by tying insulation boards to the ceiling. Then the ceiling is covered with vapor barrier film and plywood sheets.

Required materials and tools

To insulate walls, you need to purchase basic and auxiliary (consumable) materials, collect (borrow from friends and acquaintances or rent from specialized companies) a set of tools and devices.

Materials you need to buy:

basalt wool - must be purchased with a margin of 10-15%;
vapor barrier film (type B or C);
windproof membrane (type A or AM);
wooden beam 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm - the width depends on the thickness of the mat;
rail (distance strip) 20 x 50 mm for installing a counter-lattice for exterior finishing (siding, block house, imitation timber, etc.);
metal cornices for slabs;
primer;
special fasteners for cotton wool (dowels with a large plastic roundel washer);
glue “CERESIT CT190” or plaster-adhesive mixture “EK THERMEX - EK Chemical” for attaching mats to the wall and gluing reinforcing mesh;

Attention: “CERESIT CT180” is not intended for basalt wool. You can glue basalt insulation with it only at your own peril and risk.

reinforcing fiberglass mesh;
wood screws for mounting the counter-lattice.

In the process of work, you cannot do without the following devices and tools:

scaffolding (rent required) or construction trestles (made independently from scrap materials). Working on stepladders or ladders is prohibited for safety reasons and is inconvenient;
hammer drill or electric drill;
screwdriver;
mixer attachments for stirring glue;
hacksaws for wood;
hacksaws for metal or metal scissors (perfectly replaces the “grinder”);
knife with removable blades;
containers for preparing glue;
notched trowel;
hydraulic level or laser level;
level;
plumb line;
beating cord;
construction square;
roulette;
hammer.

Instructions for installing lathing on the facade

Installation of lathing on the facade during its insulation is carried out only when using various panels, porcelain tiles or natural stone as finishing. For decorative plaster and painting, thermal insulation is installed without lathing.

To install a frame for siding, block house, imitation timber or tiles you will need:

dry, straight, smooth-surfaced wooden slats 40x40 or 50x50 mm.
metal hangers or bars for attaching the sheathing to the wall.

Metal hangers.
The technological process can be divided into several independent stages.

Step 1. Determine the thickness of the pads under the sheathing posts or the distance from the wall at which the posts will be plumb. To do this, the width of the racks is subtracted from the thickness of the insulating layer.
Step 2. On the surface of the wall, mark the places where the strapping is attached, and then the lines of passage of the internal horizontal and vertical slats. The horizontal distance is 590 mm, the vertical distance is 390 mm (for laying sideways). It is impossible to maintain the same step along the entire wall. Therefore, compensation, i.e. a smaller distance between the posts must be done either on the window or on the doorway. To do this, the marking must first be carried out from one side of the strapping to the opening in the wall, and then from the other.
Step 3. The linings are cut to the obtained dimensions.

Step 4. Along the line of the rack, the places for attaching the linings are marked: at the ends of the racks, and inside in increments of 40-60 cm.
Step 5. Use a hammer drill (electric drill) to drill holes in the wall for self-tapping screws.

Step 6. Dowels are driven into the drilled holes.

Step 7. The lining is attached.

Step 8. The racks and horizontal slats are filled. Door and window openings are also upholstered.

This technology allows you to quickly and easily install the sheathing. Difficulties arise when laying insulation: bars protruding beyond the dimensions of the racks interfere. You have to cut out the wool in the insulation boards to fit them, but this is difficult. Therefore, professional builders use metal hangers.

Horizontal slats are often not used under siding. The racks perfectly hold the finishing material, and horizontal packing is not needed for basalt slabs.

Construction of an insulating “pie” from the inside

In construction terminology, the unity of various structural elements is called a pie. If we apply this term to walls that are insulated from inside the building, the list of layers will look like this:

load-bearing external wall;
waterproofing layer;
insulation layer made of mineral wool;
vapor barrier layer;;
frame for fastening drywall;
drywall directly;
finishing material.

Is it necessary to insulate a timber house from the inside?

The main reasons for drafts and cold indoors are areas that are most vulnerable to heat loss. Errors during installation of a heat insulator, gaps between beams due to poor-quality installation or shrinkage - all this leads to a decrease in the thermal efficiency of a wall made of timber. In this article, we will look at how to properly insulate a timber wall from the inside, and what materials should be used to insulate a timber house from the inside.

Insulation of a house made of timber can be done from the inside, but it is less often done than external insulation, since the area of the house is reduced and humidity may increase if the work is done incorrectly. If it is impossible to insulate a house made of timber from the outside (you have already sheathed the house and do not want to remove the sheathing or you only need to insulate one room), then internal work requires competent execution of the work.

Sequence of work:

1. prepare the surface and caulk the cracks; 2. create a vapor barrier; 3. install timber sheathing on the walls; 4. lay and seal the insulation; 5. We create a ventilation system and carry out finishing.

Is it worth insulating a timber house from the inside with plasterboard? It is possible if it is impossible to do it outside. In addition to insulating the walls, wooden windows should be replaced with plastic ones and the window sill and slopes should be insulated. Only an integrated approach to this problem and the use of high-quality materials for thermal insulation will help to significantly reduce heat loss in the house through the walls and improve the indoor microclimate.