The heated floor does not heat: 16 reasons and solutions why the system does not work

Here you will find out why a water heated floor does not heat: possible problems and their manifestations, the reason for poor operation, uneven and long heating times, and also what causes a breakthrough.

Despite the fact that built-in heating systems and, in particular, water heated floors are considered the most reliable, durable, and efficient, sooner or later you may encounter problems.

Having studied them in advance, it is easier to determine why the water heated floor does not work and take measures to eliminate the malfunction.

Malfunctions of water floors

The main reasons why a water heated floor does not work well are due to defects during installation. Insufficient heating may be due to low boiler power or improper operation of the water pump.

When the circulation pump is running, it vibrates slightly and makes a little noise. If there is power and no signs of operation, the failed pump can be easily replaced with a new one.
The system may not turn on if air gets into it. This problem can be resolved with the help of repair specialists.
If the boiler power is low, the heat may not be enough for high-quality floor heating. It is necessary to install a boiler with a power reserve or turn off part of the heating (in rooms not in use during this period).
If the floor gets warm in places, the vapor barrier is not done correctly. It will have to be redone. Poor quality vapor barrier leads to increased dampness in the room and the formation of mold, which is very harmful to health.

Boiler protection from cold return

Having allocated a considerable amount of funds to create a water heated floor (WF) system, the user sometimes does not receive the expected level of comfort or savings, which supporters of such heating vying with each other about. And if the calculation of communications was carried out correctly, and the installation was carried out without errors, then, most likely, the reason for the ineffectiveness of the thermal installation is in its incorrect functional settings. These primarily include adjusting the temperature of the warm water floor. At the same time, it is based on the concepts of the temperature of the coolant in the system and the surface of the floor covering, as well as the temperature regime in the rooms.

Let's look at how these concepts are linked together in practice, with different methods of TP management.

Water heated floor does not heat

It's hard to admit, but it's true. Warm floors do not bring joy, but disappointment. Don’t rush to scold him, maybe there’s something wrong with him that can be fixed.

1. The heated floor circuit does not work.

a) In the distribution panel, ball valves are installed on each circuit. Look, all the handles should be located along the pipes (open).

b) The circulation pump does not work. Most often they are located near the boiler (in the distribution panel). Its operation is accompanied by slight noise and slight vibration. If not, it should be replaced if power is supplied to it.

c) Air has entered the system. You cannot do without the help of a specialist. An unpleasant situation, but fixable.

2. The floor temperature is low, insufficient to heat the room.

a) There is not enough boiler power. Try reducing the temperature in other rooms, in those where it is possible, but you are rarely or rarely present. Maybe it's time to clean the boiler, carry out preventative repairs, and inspect the temperature sensors.

b) They laid a carpet and put in additional furniture. Underfloor heating requires open floors, the more the better.

c) Air has entered the system. This happens when the air did not completely block the pipe, but partially.

d) During installation, you “saved” on insulation and now you warm the ground or your neighbors from below. Here you need to make a choice: either redo the floors completely with normal insulation, or install additional heat sources (supply warm air through ventilation, additionally install radiators, gas convectors, etc.).

3. The heated floor does not heat evenly (spots). This is the most unpleasant case. If attempts to free the system from air are unsuccessful... Your vapor barrier is done poorly or is missing altogether. In this case, the floor works to dehumidify rather than heat the room. How can I check this? With the heating running, place a 1*1m piece of plastic film on the floor and tape it around the perimeter to the floor. If after a day (or earlier) perspiration appears on the film, the joints of the tiles darken from moisture - the floor must be redone in accordance with the technology. I do not recommend installing an additional heat source. Dampness from the floor and heat will lead to the appearance of fungus and mold, with an unpleasant odor.

Teleos-Bud LLC Terekhov Alexanderwww.teleos.kiev.ua

where they pass, the temperature difference between them, the pressure on the radiators

The comfort of the family in winter will depend on how efficiently the heating system in the house operates.

If the batteries heat up poorly, it is necessary to eliminate the malfunction, and for this it is important to know how heating works in general

Water heating of a space is a heat source and coolant that is distributed through the radiators. Supply and return are present in one- and two-pipe systems. In the second, there is no clear distribution; the pipe is conventionally divided in half.

Odnoklassniki

Features of supply in the heating system

The heat supply comes directly from the boiler, while the liquid is distributed through the batteries from the main element - the boiler (or the central system). It is typical for a one-pipe system. If it is improved, it is also possible to insert pipes into the return line.

Photo 1. Heating diagram for a private two-story house indicating the supply and return pipes.

Where is the return route?

In short, the heating circuit consists of several important elements: a heating boiler, batteries and an expansion tank. In order for heat to flow through radiators, a coolant is needed: water or antifreeze. If the circuit is constructed correctly, the coolant heats up in the boiler, rises through the pipes, increasing its volume, and all excess ends up in the expansion tank.

Based on the fact that the batteries are filled with liquid, hot water displaces cold water, which, in turn, goes back into the boiler for subsequent heating.

ogon.guru

The floor is not warm enough. Coolant temperature is low

A typical and common problem that owners of city apartments and private houses are forced to face when complaining about the unsatisfactory performance of the heated floor is uneven heating. During normal operation, the water circuit must completely and evenly heat the concrete screed or floor covering, creating the necessary conditions for heating the home.

In this case, the problem is uneven coolant flow through the water circuit. Due to the fact that pipelines can have different lengths, due to the same intensity of coolant supply, the degree of heating of each pipe is different. Usually, before starting, the levels of electric drives are set in the collector cabinet to the required position.

Before starting the system, the optimal parameters calculated for each circuit are initially set. By measuring the temperature of the coolant in each water circuit, the electric drives are set to the appropriate position. Consequently, the heating temperature of the coolant in the system changes, and the degree of heating of the water circuit also changes.

The solution in this situation is as follows. We are looking for a water circuit in which the coolant does not heat the water floor in accordance with the set temperature, then we manually increase the flow of boiler water.

Removing air lock

One of the most common and common reasons why batteries are cold is the presence of excess air in the system. This in turn prevents the continuous circulation of water in the system.

The problem can be solved quite easily by removing excess air from the system.

If there is too much air, it will not be possible to release it at once. In this case, it is recommended to open the tap every half hour or every hour. If the job is completed successfully, your radiator will be hot.

However, what can those who are faced with such a problem as the lack of a valve on the battery do? For example, old-style radiators do not have such a tap. However, even from such a situation you can find a way out. They suggest doing the following:

It is still not worth unscrewing the plug completely. You need to understand where to turn the valve. If “L” is written on the coupling, you will need to unscrew it to the right.

You don't need to use too much force to avoid damaging the pipes. When the job is done and you need to tighten the coupling back, it is recommended to wrap the threads with tow to prevent water from seeping through.

Electrical floor problems

An electric heated floor consists of a heating cable and a thermostat. Therefore, why the system does not work depends on their proper functioning.

If the heated floor stops heating, the heating cable may have been damaged during pouring of the screed or during installation. To check the integrity, you need to disconnect the terminals on the thermostat side and measure the voltage between the heating conductors. The discrepancy with passport data should not exceed 5%.

If the temperature sensor turns off when the floor heats up weakly, it indicates incorrect installation. The sensor either touches the cable or is close to it. The floor temperature can differ from the set temperature by no more than two degrees. It can be measured using a special thermometer.
The thermostat or temperature sensor may be faulty. You must first make sure that the terminal connections of the circuit elements are reliable. Then the output voltage is measured, it should be equal to the supply voltage. Having determined the malfunction, the broken unit is replaced.

For such a system, you can repair the heated floor yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. You only need basic knowledge of electrical engineering and certain measuring instruments.

Why the water heated floor does not heat; faults and their elimination

Water heating built into the floor is a rather complex system of interconnected components. If the water heated floor does not work, the reasons may be different.

First of all, you need to know the basic elements of this type of heating:

Pipes are lines through which coolant circulates, transferring heat to the floor surface.
Bypass.
Circulation pump.
The manifold and electric drives of the inlet group, which serve to regulate the flow in the circuits, as well as a balancing valve, designed to mix heated water and water that has already given off heat.
Thermostats and thermostats that allow you to regulate and maintain the set temperature. In the event of a breakdown, both cooling and critical overheating of the system are possible.

It is worth taking into account possible flaws in installation. Eliminating such a malfunction as, for example, an insufficient amount of insulation and high heat loss, will be problematic, because you will have to lift the floor covering of the warm water floor, dismantle the screed and pipes.

Also, if a warm water floor does not heat, the reasons may lie in incorrect calculations during the design and, as a result, incorrectly selected system components according to the parameters. It often happens that there is not enough energy for proper heating. In this case, the problem is low network voltage or insufficient boiler power.

However, we will consider the most typical breakdowns, places and causes of their occurrence, as well as ways to solve the problem.

Pipeline damage

A breakthrough of a water heated floor manifests itself in a leak and often a sharp drop in pressure in the pipes. A leak not only reduces the amount of coolant in the system, but is also fraught with destruction of the floor, flooding of neighbors and damage to property.

After determining the location of the leak, you need to carefully dismantle the floor covering and screed locally. The method of eliminating a leak comes down to excision of the damaged section of the pipe and replacing it with a new, intact one. The technology depends on the type of pipes used.

Before dismantling the coating and cutting out the pipe, you must first shut off the coolant supply to the circuit (at the collector), and then completely drain the water from the circuit. After repair, the circuit starts up. It is mandatory to check the solder or connection for leaks.

Before heating a water heated floor, it is necessary to de-air it.

Uneven heating

In cases where a water heated floor does not heat well, the reasons may lie in the uneven distribution of the coolant in the circuits. This is due to the fact that the contours, as a rule, have different lengths. If the rate of water supply at the collector to each loop is the same, then the coolant will take longer to pass through a longer circuit. Accordingly, in such loops the water cools faster.

In this case, you will have to be patient, because the time it takes for a water-heated floor to warm up depends on many factors (the design and thickness of the “warm cake”, the temperature and intensity of the water supply, the temperature outside the windows, the flooring material, what power the heater is chosen for the warm floor). water floor, etc.).

Automation tools will help to facilitate control and adjustment, namely temperature sensors and servos on the collector valves connected to an external thermostat - an analyzer that sends commands to the collector to regulate the water supply to the loops.

Sources

https://eurosantehnik.ru/ne-rabotaet-ne-greet-vodyanoj-teplyj-pol.html
https://ZnatokTepla.ru/teplyj-pol/pochemu-ne-greet-teplyj-pol.html
https://samelectrik.ru/pochemu-teplyj-pol-ne-nagrevaetsya-i-kak-reshit-etu-problemu.html
https://teplota.guru/teploizolyatsiya/ne-greet-teplyj-pol.html
https://netholodu.com/teplyj-pol/elektricheskij/nagrevaniya.html
https://netholodu.com/teplyj-pol/vodyanoj/neispravnosti.html

Common heating problems

General scheme of operation of autonomous heating
The principle of operation of any heating system is the effective transfer of thermal energy from the energy carrier (gas, solid fuel, diesel, etc.) to water in pipes. The task of heating devices (radiators, radiators, pipes) is to transfer the resulting heat into the room.

And if the heating radiator does not heat, the reasons for this may lie both in the design itself and in the parameters of the system as a whole. Let's consider the common reasons for a decrease in the efficiency of a heating system:

Low efficiency of the boiler heat exchanger. The water does not heat up to the required temperature;
A particular radiator does not heat well. Possible reasons: improper installation, formation of air pockets;
Changes in the technical characteristics of the system - an increase in hydrodynamic resistance in certain sections of the pipeline, a decrease in the bore diameter of pipes, etc. Most often, the consequence of such phenomena is that the heating circulation pump gets very hot.

In some cases, not one, but several of the listed problems arise. Often the main one is the root cause of the appearance of the following ones. Thus, the formation of an air lock affects the increase in hydrodynamic resistance, and as a result, an increased load on the circulation pump occurs.

Decorative grilles should not be installed on a heating radiator with poor heating or covered with a panel. Thus, the already low efficiency of its work will be artificially reduced.

Radiator does not heat up

Heating radiator design
Most often, problems with normal heat transfer occur in heating radiators. This is explained by their specific design - the coolant does not move through one pipe, as in a transport line, but is distributed over several.

In what cases does the heating radiator not heat? There are several factors that directly affect the correct operation of the battery.

Air locks in heating

Installed Mayevsky faucet
There are several reasons for the appearance of air locks in the heating system - excess temperature, water evaporation, etc. It is important that the consequence of this is the appearance of places in the line that are not filled with coolant. Most often these are heating radiators. To eliminate them, it is necessary to install a Mayevsky valve - an air valve that releases excess air from the device.

How to determine why a radiator does not heat well? The simplest method is a temperature difference on the surface. At the point where the air lock forms, it will be significantly lower, thereby preventing the normal passage of the coolant. To eliminate it, you must perform the following steps:

Using a screwdriver or a rotary lever, the Mayevsky tap is opened;
Add water to the system until the coolant begins to flow out of the tap along with the air;
Shut off the water supply.

After starting the heating system, the surface of the radiator should heat evenly. Otherwise, repeat the procedure.

For normal heating of the radiator, you need to install an adjustable thermostat. Depending on the set temperature, it will automatically adjust the volume of coolant.

Improper installation and limescale deposits in pipes

Radiator connection installation diagrams
The efficiency of the radiator depends on the correct installation of the radiator. It should not be inclined relative to the plane of the floor and wall. If this condition has not been met, then the question will inevitably arise - why the radiator does not heat.

To check the correct installation of the radiator, you can take a standard building level. If the upper plane of the battery has deviations, re-installation should be performed. It is best to use new reinforced fasteners for this.

If after this the question of why the heating radiator does not heat remains unresolved, it is recommended to flush the heating system.

This problem is relevant for old pipes and radiators made of steel and cast iron.

Over time, a limescale layer accumulates on the inner surface, preventing the normal flow of coolant. There are several ways to perform the washing procedure:

Hydraulic. A special pump is connected to the system circuit, which creates high water pressure. Under the influence of this force, the scale is broken into small fractions and retained in the pump filter;
Chemical. Special additives act on limescale, which loses its uniformity and flakes off from the inner surface. Subsequently, hydraulic flushing is performed to remove residual debris.

Experts recommend using a comprehensive method to solve the problem in which the radiator does not heat up. After checking the correct installation, the system is flushed, and then filled correctly with the Mayevsky tap open.

If a two-pipe heating system does not heat due to clogged pipes, you need to carefully choose a cleaning technology. For pipelines made of polypropylene, chemical cleaning cannot be done.

The boiler does not heat the radiators

Boiler heat exchanger before and after cleaning
Often, a two-pipe heating system does not heat due to the low heat transfer rate of the boiler exchange circuit. This leads to a decrease in temperature and, as a consequence, a loss of efficiency of the entire system. Not every boiler model provides an easy way to dismantle the heat exchanger. If the heating does not heat well due to the appearance of plaque on the internal elements of the boiler, you can perform flushing without this procedure. To do this you will need a pump with a filtration system. The cleaning procedure is as follows:

Disconnecting the boiler from the general heating system;
Connection to the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump hoses;
Filling a special cleaning liquid into the boiler heat exchanger;
Using a centrifugal pump increases the speed of fluid passing through the boiler.

After this, the radiators should not heat up poorly. Particular attention should be paid to the flushing fluid. It should not harm the metal elements of the boiler and system. Therefore, at the end of the procedure, the entire system should be rinsed with distilled water.

To avoid the appearance of scale, before pouring water into the heating system, you need to reduce its hardness level. The use of running water is not recommended as it contains large amounts of calcium and magnesium bicarbonates. They are the main source of limescale deposits not only in the boiler heat exchanger, but also in pipes and radiators.

The best way to clean the heat exchanger is to dismantle it. This way you can not only remove the entire volume of scale, but also ensure its integrity. After this procedure, the heating system should not heat poorly.

Pipelines: reasons for low heating

Determining air pockets in batteries using a thermal imager
Failures in the heating mode are typical for a two-pipe heating system. In this case, the supply line that distributes the coolant to the radiators does not heat. Identification of the “problem” area can be done by measuring the temperature on the surface of the pipes or a thermal imager.

Natural circulation

Pipe slope for heating with natural circulation
What can cause such problems? If the heating does not heat well, the slope of the line may not be observed. This only applies to natural circulation systems. According to the standards, the slope of the pipes should be 10 mm per 1 m.p. In addition, the direction is taken into account - from the accelerating riser to the radiators. For the return pipe, the slope must be towards the boiler.

At the first stage, it is necessary to measure this indicator using a building level. If it meets the standard, but the heating radiator does not heat, there is a possibility of air pockets forming. In this case, an integrated approach is recommended, which includes the following steps:

Measuring the angle of inclination. If necessary, change it to the required value;
Flushing pipes to remove limescale;
Filling the system with coolant with open Mayevsky taps on the radiators.

This technique will eliminate the low heat transfer rate of the heating system.

To improve circulation, a circulation pump can be installed in open systems. If it overheats, you need to install an additional one. This is often necessary for branched heating systems.

Reason 1. Lack of thermal insulation

The most common reason why a heated floor does not cope with the functions assigned to it is that you simply forgot to install the thermal insulation properly, or did not install it at all. Often, a regular polyethylene foam backing is used as thermal insulation. And the substrate is simply not intended for thermal insulation of heated floors. Instead, you need to use polystyrene foam 5-10 cm thick.

How to fix it?

Keep one thing in mind. You will already have to overpay for heated floors. But perhaps the situation will be corrected by a higher temperature supply to the heated floor and the use of more powerful heating equipment. But don't overdo it. The maximum temperature should not exceed 70 degrees. And it shouldn't be permanent. Otherwise, the pipe will quickly become unusable.

Why the heated floor doesn't work reasons why the heated floor stopped working

For complete comfort, many residents of megacities order a heated floor system. But after installation, you may suddenly discover that the heated floor does not work. Naturally, you can’t repair water floor heating yourself, but what first steps should you take?

The heated floor does not work: reasons and methods for solving them

The first thing you need to look at if the system is not functioning is the switch. It will help you understand why the heated floor does not work. There may simply be no electricity due to a tripped circuit breaker. It happens that the line is damaged and this leads to its sudden operation. Modern underfloor heating systems (most models) are equipped with special screens that show with a set of symbols that they are turned on. It's also a good idea to check the voltage using the terminals. However, a high-quality turnkey heated floor should not suffer from accidental breakdowns or accidents.

Often, even when there is voltage in the system and normal operation of the switch, it is noted that the heated floor does not work. Then the whole issue may be in the elements of the underfloor heating system, the regulator, or even the sensor. You need to know which of these elements are where. After all, when purchasing, you were not only interested in which heated floor is better, but also in what each of the devices does. The system is checked like this. Current resistance is measured. The value should be equal to the resistance of the cable selected as the heating element.

Measuring cable voltage is easy. You can perform this procedure for heating film. The voltage is divided by the resulting resistance. The resulting value is the current that is in the underfloor heating system. If you multiply it by 220 volts, you can get the power that a heated floor system needs. These values are also specified in the system passport. They need to be compared. If the resulting figure differs by a large amount, then perhaps you are dealing with a short circuit or simply damage to the insulating layer. This can also manifest itself in uneven operation of heated floors.

Since underfloor heating involves a high cost of work, it is not recommended to fix the problems yourself. More harm could be done. It’s better to call our specialists from , who will quickly determine the cause and fix the breakdown. At low power levels, the cause of the malfunction may lie in breaks. Naturally, you won’t be able to fix them yourself.

By the way, some unscrupulous sellers of this system not only do not say exactly how much a heated floor costs, but also do not provide a passport for it, so it is impossible to compare the data. In such cases, you have to take the average value.

If the data obtained indicates that there is no voltage at all, then we can conclude that there is a short circuit. The difficulty of repair lies in the fact that it is impossible to identify a fault in the concrete screed. After all, you will have to take out the cable and replace it. You will have to completely remove the screed and re-install it. In this regard, film flooring allows repair work to be carried out quickly and easily.

Often the reason lies not in the floor itself, but in the sensor. After inspecting the floor, we move on to it. A sensor is essentially a resistor, that is, it has resistance. Based on the resistance and temperature indicators, it is easy to calculate how correctly the system temperature sensor works.

If the regulator is damaged, you will know about it from the messages on the monitor. By the way, damage to the regulator is the most easily replaceable incident, since this element of the system is not located in the floor or under a concrete screed. It is enough to simply pull it out of the tube and replace it. The most unpleasant thing that can happen is that the small section of the wall to which it is attached is damaged. By the way, the price of this element is very reasonable.

The regulator is checked using a multimeter. You will also need to set the maximum temperature for the system. The terminals should show voltage. If you switch to the minimum temperature, the voltage in the terminals should disappear.

It is not recommended to carry out any repair work if the heated floor suddenly stops working. It’s better to call our company’s specialists, who will quickly and efficiently complete all the work for you.

No circulation, heating failure - why

Failure in the heating system, deficiencies, imperfections, all lead to cold radiators. If there is no coolant circulation, then the reason needs to be determined. Most often, the answer to why the heating does not work is on the surface, obvious.

Let's look in order at the main causes of heating malfunctions, why water does not circulate through the pipes, and what needs to be done first.

Let's start with the simplest and most obvious reasons.

clogged, clogged

Every heating system must have a coarse filter. A very small device with a fine mesh and a sump (installed downwards! or at least to the side) saves equipment, pumps, and the boiler from coolant contamination that will be present in any system. Wood shavings, broken threads, rust, water sediment…. everything is retained by the mesh in the filter.

The sedimentation tank must be periodically untwisted and the mesh cleaned.

If the circulation in the heating system of a private house is disrupted, then the first thing you need to do is check the filter, which should be installed on the return line in front of the boiler.

Air in the system, airing

Airing can occur in any closed piping system where air removal measures have not been taken. Air is always present in the coolant, including in a dissolved state, is released during pressure changes, and accumulates at the highest points. Including in the boiler.

Automatic air vents are installed at characteristic, highest points of the system, as well as on collectors and special separators - the normal circuit is equipped with a special air catching device in which air bubbles are released from the coolant.
In addition, Mayevsky valves (manual air vents) should be on each radiator, and also possibly in other elevated places.
Checking the air supply, bleeding the air, installing air vents are common actions if circulation stops and the batteries are cold.

The circulation pump does not work

In private homes, the reason why the heating system stops working is a breakdown of the electrical equipment that controlled the movement of the coolant through the pipes.

If the heating suddenly stops working, then you need to check the functionality of the circulation pump near the solid fuel boiler or the pump in the automated boiler. In addition, the same unit can be installed in each circuit, which must work properly.

Bad polypropylene pipes

Often the consumer (customer) believes that polypropylene pipes are absolutely reliable and cannot cause heating problems or cold radiators.

But polypropylene is much more insidious than old steel or metal-plastic pipelines. Each place of soldering (welding) is a potential increased resistance in the system or a cause of cessation of circulation (weakened movement of water through the batteries), due to deposits of material inside.

It is impossible to control the quality of connections from the outside; all that remains is to cut out pieces, resolder, and remake polypropylene pipes.

Poor performance of a polypropylene system is a real problem for the home installer. Good professionals don’t take on this material at all.

Bad project

It is not uncommon for poor circulation to occur where there is poor design. Typically, the batteries are not connected correctly, according to some sequential circuit, where the last battery in the circuit receives much less coolant.

Another bad design is single-pipe circuits, where it is also difficult to establish the necessary coolant circulation through each battery.

If the radiators do not heat up evenly, or there is poor coolant circulation on individual heating devices, first of all you need to consider how the connection corresponds to the classic circuits - shoulder, associated, radial. It is necessary to bring home heating to normal design standards, and then expect good circulation and uniform heating of the radiators.

Small diameter, overgrown pipes

Old steel pipes become overgrown with rust and deposits from the inside, their throughput capacity decreases significantly over time, and there is only one solution - they need to be replaced with modern ones.

But even during installation, for the sake of economy, mistakes can be made with the choice of pipeline diameter - on mains, on groups of heating devices, diameters of 16 or 20 mm can be installed. The result is noise in the pipes, excessive consumption of electricity, and insufficient coolant flow. What pipe diameters should you choose?

A complex system

A type of bad design is an incorrectly designed complex heating system consisting of many heating circuits and several boilers. Here entire circuits will not work correctly if the work of one affects the neighboring one.

As a rule, one boiler (the backup one does not count) and three circuits - boiler, radiators, heated floors with their pumps are coordinated normally, and no questions arise. But if you connect another working boiler plus a circuit (for example, heating a garage and greenhouse), then the system will become complex. It is difficult to say how the coolant will circulate in it without equalizing the pressures at the connection points.

In complex systems, a competent design is important, installing a hydraulic arrow or an equal pressure ring; more information about the hydraulic separator can be found here

No balancing

Many home heating schemes involve balancing; balancing and control valves are installed in them. For example, between floors, between shoulders, and for each radiator. The taps cover the direction with less hydraulic resistance; accordingly, more coolant will flow to other points.

Children can play with the taps. Or the system is initially unbalanced. Setting up, as a rule, is no problem, you just need to find this tap... How to set up home heating

Neighbors don't provide heat

But complex heating project schemes are of little concern to residents of high-rise buildings, who have a separate riser for each radiator in the apartment.
And if any radiator stops heating up normally, it means there is no circulation through the riser, therefore...
You need to contact the heating network, housing office (service organization) to adjust the power in the risers, and if this does not help, then with the requirement to check the neighbors.
Often, unauthorized connection or replacement of radiators and pipes in central heating systems leads to a redistribution of pressure, circulation through individual batteries decreases and disappears.

No circulation in gravity system

In gravity systems, the pressure difference is low; they are especially sensitive to air pockets, pipe diameters, and gaps in radiators.
In old circuits, gradual deposits occur in radiators and pipes; circulation may decrease over time, and the only cure for this is replacing everything with a more modern one.
You also need to pay attention to the correctness of the circuit itself - the middle heating line is below the cooling line (the boiler heat exchanger is below the radiators), and also - the hot feed rises up to the highest point, and from there it drops to the radiators... Read more about gravity flow circuits below

Various breakdowns in heating systems

The taps and valves are closed - check that everything is open to ensure circulation.
There is a leak in the system - there is not enough coolant, check the pressure, eliminate the leak.
Installation with flexible pipes - the pipe is pinched.
Failure of automatic equipment - thermal heads on mixing units, radiators, the mixing units themselves - silting, failure, it is necessary to check the correct operation. Also – electronic failure.
Incorrect balancing on the distribution collector - in beam circuits, complex systems, collectors with balancing and tuning equipment can cause a lack of circulation anywhere due to breakdowns and incorrect settings.
Low pressure, no air in the expansion tank - check the pressure in the pipes and the pumping of the tank; automated units will not work at all without the required pressure.
Violation of the circuit, excess bypass - check that the installation complies with the design, the logic of the circuit, whether there are any short circuits in the jet, parallel branches to radiators and circuits.

Heating is not at full strength

Sometimes consumers do not immediately notice that there is something wrong with their floor heater. It's on but doesn't heat well

An electric heated floor, depending on its type, has heating parameters set by the manufacturer.

On average, if the installation was carried out correctly, then for:

Infrared film floor heating time will be 10-15 minutes;
heating mats filled with glue will reach the temperature set by the thermostat in 6-8 hours;
a cable floor “recessed” into a thick screed will take a day to warm up.

If the system took longer or did not reach the specified parameters, the reason for this may be:

Incorrect installation of the temperature sensor. If it is placed too close to the heating element of the structure, it will cause the thermostat to turn off before the floor covering warms up.
The sensor itself may fail, so it must be checked without turning off the thermostat.
The cause may be low voltage, which can be avoided by installing a stabilizer.
The floor can take a long time to warm up if the heat loss is higher than the system can produce. This can happen if there is no thermal insulation.
Initially, incorrect calculations can significantly reduce the power of a heated floor.

As practice shows, in order not to wonder in the future how long it takes for an electric heated floor to heat up, you need to make the correct calculations at the stage of its installation and lay the system taking into account all the layers of the “pie”.

Conclusion

Many heating problems are not difficult to identify and fix on your own. However, in difficult situations it is better to seek help from specialists. Even though the price for their services can be quite high, it is still cheaper than replacing a damaged heating system.

For more information on this topic, watch the video in this article.

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Infrared coating

Infrared film floors are the most modernized heating method. However, during their installation certain nuances may also arise.

The system is connected to the network by wires attached to a copper bus running along the entire edge of the film. They are connected using clamps. If there is insufficient contact, oxidation of the metal occurs. Gradually the chain breaks and the floor may stop heating. To correct the situation, the contact must be replaced and securely fastened.

Film floors regulate the degree of heating using a thermostat. Accordingly, its failure leads to improper operation of the floors. This is an easily repaired unit.
If the quality of heating deteriorates, the heated floor is checked by measuring the current consumed by the device. A deviation from the specified value in the passport of more than 10% indicates a breakdown of the heating elements. A broken tape can only be replaced. You can temporarily increase the heating temperature of the remaining elements using a thermostat. However, this is a temporary measure.

There are a number of reasons for failure that are common to all types of floors:

Initially, you need to check that the heated floor is connected correctly to the network. Only after making sure that the input voltage is present can you further look for a breakdown.
The main reason for heat loss is a small layer or complete absence of thermal insulation. The heat goes down (it warms the neighbors or the ground), rather than warming the floor. During installation, it is necessary to take into account the operating conditions of the floors.
By measuring the resistance of a heated floor, you can easily calculate its power. By comparing the calculated value with the rated value, we can confidently say about the presence of short circuits and insulation damage (power greater than the rated value) or cable breaks (power less).

Underfloor heating is considered a low-temperature heater. The maximum surface temperature is 30°C. At higher temperatures, the floor covering (laminate, parquet) may deteriorate.

When using two heat sensors, heating the room is more efficient

Incorrect connection

Incorrect pipe connection is one of the possible reasons for reduced radiator efficiency.
This is a gross mistake; experienced craftsmen do not make such mistakes; most often they arise after the work is performed by amateurs. Incorrect radiator installation

The return pipe is connected to the upper pipe, the supply pipe is connected to the lower pipe. As a result, a range of related problems arise:

The circulation of water and the full operation of the heating system are completely disrupted.
The efficiency of the radiator and its heat transfer decrease; water is unable to completely fill all sections.
The process of draining liquid from the battery is disrupted.

Water enters through the lower pipe, passes in a circle and leaves the radiator. Its sections do not warm up, and the actual efficiency is significantly reduced. The upper connection does not allow liquid to be drained from the inside, because the design features of the radiator do not allow the creation of increased pressure to remove it through the upper pipe.

Incorrect and correct connection

Getting inside, hot water tries to immediately rise up, because it has a lower density than cold water. The coolant travels the shortest distance, and the liquid in the sections does not move.

When connected correctly, water enters from above and passes through the upper collector. The radiator has lower pressure, the liquid flows into the columns and is directed to the lower part. This scheme ensures full heating of the battery.

How to fix an incorrect connection:

Completely disconnect the pipes from the connections.
Implement a fundamentally different scheme, taking into account that the supply is carried out through the upper pipe, and it should be connected from above, and the return - from below.
Connect the cells to the battery, open the supply and check the operation of the radiator.