Do-it-yourself heating circulation pump repair: main faults and their elimination

Circulation pumps of various types are often used today in country houses and cottages, which makes the operation of autonomous heating systems more efficient and at the same time saves on energy resources. Meanwhile, if such a hydraulic machine fails, the entire heating system stops functioning, which forces its user to choose: use the services of qualified specialists or repair the heating circulation pump with his own hands.

Disassembling the circulation pump

The reasons for the breakdown of circulation pumps, the types of which differ from each other in certain design features, are associated both with non-compliance with the operating rules of such equipment, and with the quality of the coolant, fluctuations in the power supply network, as well as with a number of other factors. Before deciding to repair the circulation pump yourself, you should have a good understanding of the design and operating principle of such a device, which will allow you to determine the exact cause of its failure and eliminate it.

How to disassemble the circulation pump?

To repair the circulation pump, it is necessary to dismantle and disassemble it.

Dismantle the device according to the following scheme:

  1. The unit is disconnected from power. In order to disconnect the cable from the terminal box, you need to remove the housing from the device's power supply.
  2. Shut off the liquid supply with the side valves and drain the remainder in the system.
  3. The device is unscrewed with a hex screwdriver, but suddenly the bolts become stuck, they are moistened with a special WD liquid and after 20-30 minutes they try to unscrew it again.

After dismantling, the unit cover is removed. Below it is a rotor with a wheel and blades. Basically, the rotor is secured with clamps or bolts. After removing it, access to the inside of the device opens. After carefully inspecting the pump, problems are detected and corrected.

Replacing the repair kit

Replacing the circulation apparatus repair kit includes:

  • disassembling the pump part of the device;
  • replacement of components;
  • checking engine operation;
  • device assembly;
  • diagnostics of equipment operation.

Some manufacturers offer ready-made repair kits for pumping equipment. For example, a repair kit for a circulation pump u4814 with a capacity of 5200 l/h, voltage 12/24 V and a pipe diameter of 38 mm. Purchasing such a kit will reduce the waste of time and money.

You should repair the circulation device yourself only after the warranty period has expired or if it is impossible to call a repair specialist. Some pump components are difficult to find on the open market, which is explained by the trade policies of the manufacturing companies.

Therefore, in some cases it will be more economical to buy a new device rather than repair a broken one.

Common faults and solutions

The pump makes a loud noise when starting the pump, but the impeller does not spin. This usually happens if the engine shaft itself is oxidized or heavily rusted.

This happens due to the fact that the pump was installed at an angle from a horizontal reference, or due to the circulation pump being idle for a long time without use.

The process of restoring functionality is carried out as follows:

  • The first step is to completely disconnect the device from the power supply.
  • Drain the coolant from the pump and the adjacent piping circuit.
  • Unscrew all pipeline connections (the so-called American ones), remove the motor along with the rotor.
  • Take a strong plastic or wooden object, rest it on the pump body and force the impeller out of its dead position. After this, the pump should be reassembled in the reverse order; at first it will be a little noisy, but gradually it will get used to it and quiet down.

In rare cases, the pump begins to hum after a foreign object gets under the impeller. In such a situation, the pump is disassembled according to the instructions described above, the foreign body is removed, and then reassembled in the reverse order.

Only now you need to install a filter mesh before the coolant inlet so that a similar malfunction does not happen in the future.

The pump does not make any sounds and does not work

In this case, you should look for a fault in the power outlet or switch. An indicator screwdriver for determining the phase or a multimeter will help you with diagnostics. If everything is fine with the power in the outlet, then you should check the cable for a break.

If everything is fine here, then with a 90% probability the motor winding has been broken. Then the circulation pump needs to be replaced, since no one is restoring the winding.

We install the circulation pump ourselves and check it, or we call a specialist to your home for this work.

After a short period of operation, the pump turns off by itself.

This usually happens due to the fact that the water in the heating circuit is extremely highly mineralized, so lime deposits appear on the impeller during operation.

  • Here the restoration work is not particularly complicated, you just need to disassemble the pump, dismantle it, and then disassemble it (just unscrew a few bolts around the perimeter of the device).
  • Next, the impeller is cleaned; a brush and warm water with citric acid are ideal.
  • After this, the working mechanism is washed under running water. At the end of the work, the circulation pump is assembled and subsequently installed.

When started, the pump spins and circulates coolant, but during operation it makes a loud noise.

This happens due to strong air in the heating system. To restore normal operation of the pump, you need to add water or antifreeze to the system, and then remove air from all pipes and radiators.

Heating a house 100 m²

Really, honestly, really

Heating a house 100 m² fromRUR 49,500
Installation of heating boiler8,000 rub.
Installation of heating radiators (no more than 10 pieces)!!! The cost of installing a standard (mounted, not in-floor convector) heating radiator is 4,000 rubles 25,000 rub.
Radiator pipe routing12,000 rub.
Pressure testing and filling with coolant4,500 rub.
TOTAL turnkey:RUB 49,500
Drilling holes, rigging, dismantling, paid extraaccording to_estimate

Heating a house 100 m² Attention. This cost is a preliminary estimate; these prices should only be used as approximate prices. The exact cost of the work is calculated after an engineer visits the work site, its complexity, and quantity.

Cost of materials from 120,000 rubles

Included by type of work

Boiler installationInstalling an electric boiler on a wall or floor
Installation of pipes without “grooving”Open pipeline installation with wall or floor mounting
heating radiatorsMounting the heating device on the wall, installing fasteners
System pressure testingPressure testing of the assembled system with an air compressor to identify possible leaks
Commissioning worksFilling with coolant (antifreeze or water), removing air from the heating system during work
!!! No heated floors It is calculated additionally, it requires coordination of the type of substrate for the pipes, the type of use of the pipe, the possibility of control and automatic control, and of course the footage
!!! Without external chimney To calculate the cost, an engineer’s visit is required, an inspection of the roof structure, window location and much more.

House heating

Design features of floatless devices

The approximate pumping speed of water by the drainage system is about 180 liters per minute. Operating power depends on the following factors:

  • the conditions under which it is operated;
  • distance from a water source;
  • degree of immersion in liquid;
  • contamination of the pumped liquid.

It is necessary to take into account that repair of drainage pumps may be necessary after pumping out too hot water, because not all models are designed to work in extreme conditions.

Structure of drainage equipment

A modern drainage pump without a float has a pair of pipes in its design:

  • input, in contact with the sucked surface of the liquid from the reservoir;
  • outlet, diverting water to an area specified by the owner.

During the process, no drops of liquid should fall into the area of ​​the electric motor, as this can lead to its failure. In order to avoid repairing fecal pumps or other drainage systems, it is worth making sure that the pumping occurs faster than the inflow into the container.

Sewer systems can be connected through pipes, and they must be very clearly installed in relation to the diameters of the sewer pipes, practically eliminating the possible appearance of gaps.

The main advantage of a floatless drainage pump is its high degree of mobility. At the same time, repair of drainage pumps of this type is easier than their analogues.

Design of float devices

Schemes using floats are more secure. The relatively low cost of these units is also a positive factor. The float element responsible for switching off is usually located in a separate plastic box.

There are two types of such elements:

  • lightweight, relevant for water drainage and water supply;
  • heavy, in demand in storm drains and sewers.

When choosing a float, it is necessary to check its maximum tightness and high-quality insulation of the supply cable.

The most common problems

If the fecal pump does not work or repair of Gilex pumps is required, then the following cases may be the probable causes of breakdowns:

  • the motor winding has burnt out, and a characteristic odor may appear;
  • the float may be jammed below the launch horizontal;
  • the starting capacitor has failed;
  • the impeller is wedged due to the ingress of foreign mechanical particles.

It is also necessary to repair the Gilex pump yourself if you hear a hum from it, but the water is not pumping:

  • the rod has broken;
  • the operating valve is damaged;
  • the shock absorber rod mount has become loose;
  • The electrical cable is damaged.

This list includes the most popular causes of breakdowns, but individual situations occur or several emergency situations occur simultaneously.

Restoration work

Do-it-yourself repair of a Gilex pump or other drainage equipment is not always possible without special tools. In some cases, even they will not help, since expensive replacement of parts or entire units will be required.

The most popular types of repair are to release the float or remove particles blocking the rotation of the fiber. You will also be able to fix the shock absorber yourself or replace the cable. The shock absorber is fixed in a disassembled housing. The threads on the mounting bolts are tightened, and the upper nuts must be tightened.

It takes some time to repair the cable, and not all models can be replaced with your own hands.

If the rod breaks, this part is practically irreparable. You will have to purchase new equipment. Valve repair is also an unprofitable operation.

If you have knowledge of electrical engineering and there is a sufficient amount of wire to rewind the electric motor, then this procedure is carried out at home. Some repair shops offer to perform this part of the repair of Gilex pumps for a relatively small fee.

VIDEO: Dismantling and repairing drainage

Repairing a damaged cable

Cable damage may not be noticeable in all situations. A frayed winding will be visible from the outside, but it is problematic to determine a break in the internal part without external signs.

It is important to determine the point where the breakdown occurred. One of the popular places is the bend near the plug or where the cable enters the pump housing. In this situation, experienced specialists act by manual verification.

To carry out restoration work, you will need to disassemble the case, but there may be unpleasant surprises associated with the use of exotic shaped screwdrivers. This is often used to protect the product from unprofessional tampering.

When dismantling the cover, you need to carefully rock it, without making sudden jerks, so as not to damage the winding. The cavity contains a tensioner. It is usually dismantled by unscrewing 3 or 4 bolts.

The cost of installing heating systems

Heating system installation

Heating radiator installationPCfrom 2,000 ₽
Installation of a floor-mounted convectorPCfrom 4,500 ₽
Installation of a heating radiator ( non-standard size, cast iron, design)PCfrom 4,500 ₽
Installation of distribution heating cabinetPC4 500 ₽
A set of works for installing a heating system for a house up to 100 m²from49 500
A set of works for installing a heating system for a house up to 150 m²from52 500
A set of works for installing a heating system for a house up to 200 m²from72 500
A set of works for installing a heating system for a house up to 250 m²from87 500
Please call for exact cost84957446774

The cost of installing heating systems . The price was adjusted as of May 05, 2022 Attention. This cost is a preliminary estimate; these prices should only be used as approximate prices. The exact cost of the work is calculated after an engineer visits the work site, its complexity, and quantity.

Installation of an underfloor heating system (warm floor)

Water heated floorm²from 500 ₽
Distribution manifold cabinet for underfloor heating (external)PC4 500 ₽
Heated floor temperature control device PCfrom 2 000 ₽
Heated floor temperature control groups (thermostatic valve, thermostat with clamp-on sensor, bypass valve, starter)PC3 750 ₽
Main pipes heating system and pipe insulation (cross-linked polyethylene, metal-plastic) up to 20 mmm/linear100 ₽
Main pipes heating system and insulation with pipe insulation (cross-linked polyethylene, metal-plastic) up to 32 mmm/linear230 ₽
The exact cost is calculated after check-outengineer

The cost of installing heating systems . The price was adjusted as of May 05, 2022 Attention. This cost is a preliminary estimate; these prices should only be used as approximate prices. The exact cost of the work is calculated after an engineer visits the work site, its complexity, and quantity.

Installation of heating systems for warehouses, hangars, workshops, car service centers

Installation of a fan heater , with pipes, fastening to a concrete wallPCfrom 15 000 ₽
Installation of automatic fan heater controlPCfrom 4 500 ₽
Pressure testing, commissioning, filling with coolantm2from 100 ₽
Register mounting, threadPCfrom 6 750 ₽
Register installation, weldingPCfrom 15 000 ₽
The exact cost is calculated after check-out_engineer_

The cost of installing heating systems . The price was adjusted as of May 05, 2022 Attention. This cost is a preliminary estimate; these prices should only be used as approximate prices. The exact cost of the work is calculated after an engineer visits the work site, its complexity, and quantity.

Bosch dishwashers

Bosch kitchen helpers are no less popular. So, in favor of this dishwasher, namely its latest versions, we can say the following:

  1. The presence of a large working space, which allows you to load one set of dishes more than in previous versions with identical dimensions.
  2. It is possible to place a separate basket for forks, spoons and other cutlery.
  3. A wide range of different functions, the ability to install more or less intensive washing in the lower section of the dishwasher - this is very convenient, because... You can load dirty dishes, such as pans, into the lower basket.

In most cases, a Bosch model dishwasher recirculation pump is easier to disassemble than to purchase a new one. First you need to remove the pump according to the standard procedure.


Bosch dishwasher circulation pump

Then we move on to disassembling the pump itself:

  • separate the upper part of the recirculation device by turning it to the right;
  • the lower element of the spare part is non-separable, so it should be moved to the side;
  • we find broken plastic bushings on the disassembled part;
  • the first sleeve is located at the “foot of the mushroom”, and the second is “inside the cap”. Please note that it is quite difficult to select identical bushings, so it is better to contact a mechanic for ceramic substitutes.
  • Having disassembled the upper part of the mechanism, you need to clean the grease and dirt from its surface. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the part.
  • at the last stage, you need to return the new bushings to their place and install the top of the pump to the non-separable lower part, which you previously set aside. At this point the repair work is completed.

Boiler room maintenance cost

Technical (service) maintenance of the boiler room

Name of worksVolumePrice
Service contract for floor-standing boiler (gas, diesel) up to 60 kWwith 1st scheduled departurefrom 14 000 ₽
Service contract for floor-standing boiler (gas, diesel) from 60 to 170 kWwith 1st scheduled departurefrom 20 000 ₽
Service contract for floor-standing boiler (gas, diesel) up to 60 kWwith 2 scheduled tripsfrom 22 000 ₽
Service contract for floor-standing boiler (gas, diesel) from 60 to 170 kWwith 2 scheduled tripsfrom 30 000 ₽
Service contract for wall-mounted gas boilerwith 1st scheduled departurefrom 10 000 ₽
Service contract for wall-mounted gas boilerwith 2 scheduled tripsfrom 15 000 ₽
The exact cost is calculated after check-outengineer

Attention. This cost is a preliminary estimate; these prices should only be used as approximate prices. The exact cost of the work is calculated after an engineer visits the work site, its complexity, and quantity.

Boiler room repair, diagnostics and prevention

Name of worksVolumePrice
On-site inspection and diagnostics (without repair)up to 50 km from MKADfrom 3,500 ₽
On-site inspection and diagnostics (without repair)from 50 to 100 km from MKADfrom 5,500 ₽
Cleaning the burner (atmospheric)power up to 60 kWfrom 2,000 ₽
Cleaning the burner (supercharged)power up to 60 kWfrom 3,500 ₽
Cleaning the burner (atmospheric)power from 60 to 170 kWfrom 8,500 ₽
Cleaning the boiler combustion chamberpower up to 60 kWfrom 4,000 ₽
Cleaning the boiler combustion chamberpower from 60 to 170 kWfrom 6,000 ₽
Checking and pumping up pressure in the expansion tankwithout dismantling workfrom 2,500 ₽
Checking and pumping up pressure on the expansion tankwith dismantling and installationfrom 4 500 ₽
Refilling the heating system with a pumpsystem volume up to 200 litersfrom 3 000 ₽
Replacement of heating element, pump, heat exchanger, with coolant drainfor a unitfrom 3 000 ₽
Conversion of a gas boiler to liquefied gasfor a unitfrom 3 000 ₽
Burner settingsgas / dieselfrom 2 500 ₽
The exact cost is calculated after check-outengineer

Attention. This cost is a preliminary estimate; these prices should only be used as approximate prices. The exact cost of the work is calculated after an engineer visits the work site, its complexity, and quantity.

First of all

• It is better to buy circulation pumps from trusted manufacturers, this is both a guarantee of reliable operation of the device and guaranteed repair or replacement of the pump in case of failure

• Make sure that the liquid in the pipeline is not overheated and its temperature does not exceed the manufacturer’s permissible values.

• Monthly - During periods of inactivity, run the pump for at least 15 minutes. This will prevent clogging and oxidation of the pump shaft and help improve the efficiency of moving parts.

• Make sure electrical cables are properly protected from moisture.

• Make sure there are no leaks between the pump and the piping system.

• Make sure that the water pressure matches that specified in the technical data sheet

• The quality of the pumped water has a decisive influence on the longevity of the pump, so it is recommended to install a filter that catches any contaminants. Water quality is affected by many factors (including hardness, pH, impurities). Remember that the filter must be cleaned from time to time to remove contaminants deposited in it.

Best answers

Marat Musin:

LOOK AT THE PASSPORT WHAT LIQUID SHOULD BE FILLED

******:

It looks like it runs dry or there is no water flow through it.

Vladimir Petrov:

Check the system; it looks like your water is simply flowing poorly into the new branch or not at all. And you cleaned the filter, maybe that's the problem. Or on a new branch of a pipe of small diameter. And also check that you have installed it correctly, there is an arrow in the direction of the water

Viktorij Lashhehova:

❝Actually, what could be the problem? ❞If there were financial disagreements when paying with the contractor, then you need to resolve them and then everything will work correctly for you.

Stubborn Like Dac:

It appears that the pump rotor is not turning. At the end of the pump there is a plug with a slot for a screwdriver. Unscrew this plug and tap on the rotor axis with a metal object (for example, the same screwdriver) ... I had a similar situation last year and after several light blows with a screwdriver, the pump started working and is still working.

Basic safety rules

Although the design of the circulation pump is quite simple, it will require certain qualifications to eliminate any breakdowns that occur. Therefore, it is easier to prevent a problem than to heroically eliminate it later. One sign that something is wrong with your equipment is if it becomes excessively hot during operation.

Compliance with the simplest operating rules will help prevent this:

  • Under no circumstances should the wiring come into contact with moisture.
  • Particular care should be taken to check the tightness of the connection between the pumping equipment and the pipeline. If there are leaks, the gaskets should be replaced.
  • It is forbidden to turn on the device without first grounding it. The heating pump device includes special terminals.
  • The internal pressure force should not exceed operating standards.

To figure out why the heating pump is not working, it is recommended to seek help from a professional technician. You can try to fix simple problems yourself.

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